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New and working out some bugs

 
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Strictly Attitude  



Joined: 17 Oct 2016
Posts: 19
Location: West Sand Lake,NY

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:22 am    Post subject: New and working out some bugs Reply with quote

I have just acquired a 1987 924S from my father for free an automatic car. It has a ticking that can be heard even when turning it over. It is not a solid tick sounds tinny I guess. I am very experienced when it comes to mechanical so I should be able to hunt it down but is there any common issues that I should start my looking at? I also had the common fuel pump relay failure that I just soldered up today. So hopefully that will get it to fire over as the car was not getting fuel with a brand new pump installed. I also believe the car has a blown head gasket so if that is the case a front of engine will be done also at the time. I am aware of the pelican kits but any experience with the rock auto kits? Does the water pump have to be changed? I am just looking at this from the point of view actual value of the car. I do not want to dump a bunch of money into the car if it is not worth it. The body is in reasonably nice shape. Just I know the history on resale values has been really low.
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 855
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats on the acquisition! The ticking may be the injectors. They are pretty loud.

I buy most of my parts from pelican, so I've have no experience with the rockauto kits. Whenever I buy a car I always change the head gasket and oil cooler seals just as a pre-caution. It gives you peace of mind and then you don't have to ever worry about it again. Same for the waterpump... I usually change them but on the rare occasion they feel nice and tight like they should then I'll just wait till the next belt change. However if I'm uncomfortable with how sloppy it is, then I toss it.

I hope the helps! Good luck!
_________________
'86 944 -Garnet, Fully loaded, Koni suspension
'87 924S -Red, 300hp 951 swap
'87 924S -Red, New Project
'87 924S -White, Automatic
'88 924S -Red, Daily Driver, Bone stock
'93 Mx6 -White, Megan Racing suspension
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Strictly Attitude  



Joined: 17 Oct 2016
Posts: 19
Location: West Sand Lake,NY

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks edredis I appreciate the reply I believe it is louder then an injector as this developed down the road a bit the car has been in the family and I am familiar with it. My father ought it low mileage dirt cheep had it completely painted and then drove it. It had the rubber replaced on the shaft once that I remember but don't think any other service was done so head gasket set was already purchased and in the car. This should be a tensioner belt set up so here is the dreaded question that is asked everywhere and I have seen a ton of different answers. The belt tensioning tool I am not spending $400 dollars to buy one that is out of the question. What are my options here I read using the tensioner is not all to accurate. Is the hand method pretty strait forward? I am mechanically inclined enough to build a race automatic 700r4 trans and actually worked as a mechanic in the past even though I know way more now then then. I will be working on the car tonight I will try to record the sound if I do not see the problem right away.
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Strictly Attitude  



Joined: 17 Oct 2016
Posts: 19
Location: West Sand Lake,NY

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so worked on the car last night I don't get much free time I have a 4 year old son with autism and getting time for my projects are hard. Plus I have an older chevelle that takes priority in the project car department. So I had a bad relay on the fuel pump I soldered up worked great got car started. Found out all the plug wires are shot. Looked like a light show under there. Not a big deal but can some one tell me why plug wires for this car are so damn expensive. I run $200 wires on my sbc but there are 8 of them and resistance is whole lot better. What makes these so special can the wire be taken apart and crimped. I have more race wires laying around then I know what to do with!! $130 seems steep for an oem grade wire set even $80. I forgot to mention wow I think I relocated a crap load of mice oopsy.

List of needs for car before can see road
Belt Set
Ignition Wires
Plugs
Head gasket sitting in the car
A broken marker light ordered off ebay

Can you slap a donor turbo on this thing like A4 k03 with a stand alone like a microsquirt? I have a panter efi ecu I am using for my sbc in my chevelle converting to coil per cylinder and tuning isn't too bad as long as keep your eyes on AFR. Just wondering if there are any on the cheaper side hp to be had I might do some smoothing and porting on the head while I have it off also. Maybe some work on the manifold also.

Any ideas on budget build are great or I can just rock it in stock form lol
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jvandyke  



Joined: 31 Mar 2016
Posts: 205
Location: Hudsonville, MI

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

$$$ plug wires; welcome to the world of Porsche
You can make your own, maybe. I made a coil wire out of a plug wire for a while, acquired a couple sets of used since.
I found this; corroded and broken where coil wire exited the coil. Can't really fix that


_________________
87 924S project, '83 944 engine,
my son's first car.
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Strictly Attitude  



Joined: 17 Oct 2016
Posts: 19
Location: West Sand Lake,NY

PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a set of used magnecor wires on the way. Slowly chipping away at my list I made.
Cap+rotor I will inspect if worn will replace
New plugs
Air filter
oil filter + oil
Coolant
trans filter and fluid
Belt kit
Water pump
Oil cooler seals
Sun visor clips

Broken signal lense needs replacing already ordered new one
Tune up will do with head gasket change
fix window motor it is a tooth or so off does not like close tight
Sun visor clips anyone use the expensive ones or are the cheap ones fine
service transmission if needed rebuild.
replace visor clips
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
Posts: 2096
Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strictly Attitude wrote:
the dreaded question that is asked everywhere and I have seen a ton of different answers. The belt tensioning tool I am not spending $400 dollars to buy one that is out of the question. What are my options here I read using the tensioner is not all to accurate. Is the hand method pretty strait forward?.


You can get alot of heated answers to this question. If your looking for a cheaper route, the gates krikit tool #91107 is under 20 bucks and you can order it through oreillys. I have done countless 944 timing belt jobs over the years using one and never had a problem. Some people say they cant get consistent readings with the krikit, and i can imagine why. You have to remember that both the cam and the crank have resistance within the engine that transmits to the belt. I have found that when you measure with the krikit, it helps to gently wiggle the crank (not enough to turn the cam) until you get the lowest readings with the krikit, then start increasing belt tension on the tensioning idlers to the desired setting. Its consistent and reliable for me.
_________________
87 924s
88 924SE gone
447 hp cgt clone
87 924S gone
84 944 sold
83 944 sold
89 turbo S LSD, ABS etc
86 951 white rocket
85 944 sport everything.
84 944 sold.
87 944 sold
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Strictly Attitude  



Joined: 17 Oct 2016
Posts: 19
Location: West Sand Lake,NY

PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joecitizennn wrote:
Strictly Attitude wrote:
the dreaded question that is asked everywhere and I have seen a ton of different answers. The belt tensioning tool I am not spending $400 dollars to buy one that is out of the question. What are my options here I read using the tensioner is not all to accurate. Is the hand method pretty strait forward?.


You can get alot of heated answers to this question. If your looking for a cheaper route, the gates krikit tool #91107 is under 20 bucks and you can order it through oreillys. I have done countless 944 timing belt jobs over the years using one and never had a problem. Some people say they cant get consistent readings with the krikit, and i can imagine why. You have to remember that both the cam and the crank have resistance within the engine that transmits to the belt. I have found that when you measure with the krikit, it helps to gently wiggle the crank (not enough to turn the cam) until you get the lowest readings with the krikit, then start increasing belt tension on the tensioning idlers to the desired setting. Its consistent and reliable for me.


Thank you I will get one when I order my parts I appreciate the response.
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Strictly Attitude  



Joined: 17 Oct 2016
Posts: 19
Location: West Sand Lake,NY

PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well parts are ordered.
Plug wires
Air Filter
Plugs
CONTITECH TB107293K3 Belt kit
ÜRO PARTS 94410602122 water pump
guard rail from ebay
oil cooler seal
head gasket kit
3 wiper blades
sun visor clips
oil filter
Sun visor clips
and the blank button for the center consol
gates krikit tool #91107 amazon for like $12

Did I miss any thing fluids I will get locally of course. But want to make sure I have all the parts to do this and have some piece of mind for a while.
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
Posts: 2096
Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front engine seal kit.

Your head gasket set may or may not come with a front cam seal. If it does come with one dont assume that it will fit. Porsche changed the size of the camshaft seal sometime around 87. The old size was 30x47x7, and was changed to 32x47x7. If I remember right I have encountered both types in 87 dated cars. When a manufacturer states their cam seal will fit any 2.5 porsche from 1983 to 1988 it is not true. Your best bet is to pull your cam gear and check the seal size. The size may be written on the front of the seal.
The upper balance shaft seal is 30x47x7 and the lower balance shaft seal is 30x48x7, (sometimes 30x48x8 is encountered, but either will work as the last number is seal thickness rather than diameter) while the crankshaft seal is 38x52x7. These seals are critical on the 2.5 because they are prone to leakage and the oil will destroy your belts. If they dont look like they are leaking now dont be fooled, they will soon. This is especially likely if the car has been sitting for some time and starts seeing regular use.
The oil seals in the above sizes can be sourced from a seal and bearing supply house, but it is best to buy the specific front engine seal kit because it will come with the o-rings for the front of the balance shaft housings which will on occasion leak, and it also will have the paper thin mylar seals. Beware of cheap ebay seal kits. They look good and smell good, but experience has showed me seals that turn rock hard after exposure to oil for a few months and oil weeping returns.
_________________
87 924s
88 924SE gone
447 hp cgt clone
87 924S gone
84 944 sold
83 944 sold
89 turbo S LSD, ABS etc
86 951 white rocket
85 944 sport everything.
84 944 sold.
87 944 sold
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