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NA Fuel Tank Removal

 
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1227
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 11:19 pm    Post subject: NA Fuel Tank Removal Reply with quote

There all all kinds of directions for removing the fuel tank and they all seem to end "pull the thing down". Here are a few details.

1. There are 6 rubber U cushions/rattle dampers on the flange, 2 each front and back and 1 each side. Take a long screwdriver and slide them to an open area so that they will almost fall off, some will.

2. Pull down on the back corners of the tank, it will move a little then hang up. When re-stuck take your long screwdriver or pry bar and pry the tank backward gently as the flange is getting jammed in the front.

3. Repeat this 5 or 6 times and it pops out, held from falling hard by several rubber vent lines. I put a cardboard box below it to work as a crush plate and it really wasn't needed.
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Mike


'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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ted von Kampen  



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 183
Location: Scottsbluff, Nebraska

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 8:25 am    Post subject: fuel tank removal Reply with quote

Mike,
I am up here in Nebraska. I recently acquired a 1981 924. The first thing to do is to get the engine running. I have oil pump issues and fuel issues. The in tank pump is totally varnish and seized. I am searching for one of those. However, I see your notes about fuel tank removal. I need to get mine out so I can have it professionally cleaned. I have a couple questions. Do you have to detach the transaxle from the body to get the tank out? I have removed the various shields, fuel lines, tank straps and I can move it some, however it looks to me like there is not enough room to drop the tank with the transaxle attached to the body. Right now I have jack stands under the body just in front of the back wheels. Any advice beyond your posting is very welcome.
Thanks,
Ted
Scottsbluff, Nebraska
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1227
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just a thought as this is a pain to do. Get two or three cans of Seafoam and dump it in there then fill it with gas and let it sit for a week. Then drain it and somehow get rid of the gas, it did wonders to an old Ford diesel truck I had. BG fuel system cleaner is even stronger, but also much more expensive.

I did mine as i have to switch over to a fuel cell, currently the entire back deck is cut out.

Yes,the transaxle has to come out. There is a rubber plug in the bottom of the torque tube expansion plate to get to the coupler. A 3/8 drive with flex joint and allen head socket got that loose. I just took the axles out and they are in a storage box for a couple of months. There are four bolts on the torque tube to transaxle, 2 bottom bolt thru and 2 top bolts. All fairly easy to get to.

I got a $50 Harbor Freight tranny jack and it worked fine. The trans will continue to be strapped to it until it goes back in.

Set the car at an angle with the back high so the tranny can wiggle out. Make sure the car doesn't get too front heavy and tilt forward. a jack stand under a front suspension point for safety. When I took the motor out the car started rolling gently backward with the balance change, I could hold it down with one hand.
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Mike


'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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ted von Kampen  



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 183
Location: Scottsbluff, Nebraska

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 2:43 pm    Post subject: Gas tank removal Reply with quote

Mike, thanks for the reply and info. I might try the seafoam thing before I pull the TA although it is about loose now. Just need to detach the torque tube and the axles. I have the TA loose from the body and the whole thing is supported by a jack. I am thinking of dropping the TA and wheels down to see if I can get enough clearance. I doubt that I can but it might be worth a try.

If I can bend your ear a bit. The internal tank pump is bad and all varnished up. I have been pricing new or used pumps but they are scarce. One guy advised that I put the 944 screen into the tank and then use external pumps. From what I read it sounds like the pressure pump would handle the fuel need except for high speed and/or hot start. I wonder if a second external pump would work to improve the flow along with the pressure pump. I have some engine oil pump work to do so I can set on the fuel supply issue for awhile. A local radiator shop can clean the tank pretty well as they can boil it out with cleaners and then high pressure clean. What are your thoughts on the strainer to replace the in-tank pump and then add a second external pump. Thanks again.
Ted
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1227
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I had the engine oil pick-up strainer clog once and cut off oil flow I'm all in favor of lean strainers either 924 or 944 if it fits. I think from what I've read that it has been pretty common to abandon the internal pump. I'd put a question out on the main discussion board as I don't recall needing a second pump. Good luck with getting the tank out that way.

The tranny is flat enough on the bottom that it wouldn't take much fabrication to make a platform to tie it too a floor jack and get it out of there. If I was younger and stronger I could probably wrestle it around that way, but ---
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'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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