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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made some progress..
https://youtu.be/daPniEo3TcM

MS is still just watching, not controlling yet..

Cool pic I found..


Idle tuning for lowest MAP
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=137538

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/idle-tuning-megasquirt/

temp temp DME gauge
[deg C] [deg F] [ohms] [ohms]

-40 -40 44300 165400
-35 -31 35390 128300
-30 -22 26360 92900
-25 -13 20060 67700
-20 -4 16100 53600
-15 5 11800 41500
-10 14 9280 28450
-5 23 7520 22750
0 32 6550 18000
10 50 4180 11600
20 68 2800 7500
30 86 1880 5100
40 104 1350 3340
50 122 940 2280
60 140 710 1585
70 158 540 1245
80 176 425 900
90 194 320 650
100 212 230 460
110 230 173 350
120 248 140 262

BTW I have it tuning properly now.. It does work and definitely makes changes, subtle and drastic..
I don't have the autotune right now and it's not as easy as it looks, but I have been able to get the AFR flattened out pretty well..

I don't have autotune yet because well, when I have a lot of time for the 924 I don't have a lot of money.. When I have a lot of money I don't have time for the 924, but I'm dreaming about it so I buy pieces..

I almost got it out of the shed today but I remembered that I have to make an airbox top first

Water injection..
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/pre-compressor-injection-test-results.363191/
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified


Last edited by Fasteddie313 on Fri Jul 06, 2018 2:08 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the thing tuning now and it looks very promising..
Now, I'm not about to say it runs good yet, but it is on the right track..
It's nowhere near finished tuned yet, but this shows it working..
https://youtu.be/cli-u9cPOVc

Tuning with the VE table is not easy. It is very touchy and I've just been trial and erroring it, experimenting to see what it will do.
It will definitely smother the engine if fuel no problem anywhere if you tell it to, which is pretty much the point of it right?

Here is a bit about my wiring which is also not finished yet..
Under the hood I have it wired up to where it works and to where things go..
when I think it is pretty complete I'll make a nice fitting harness..
https://youtu.be/ilXkBhujAwc

I still have to put an IAT in my intake somewhere and the idle control motor..

Today I also retorqued my ARP head studs.. I previously torqued them up to 90 ftlbs..
Today I started at 70 ftlbs and 2 of them moved, then did it again at 90 ftlbs and they all moved atleast a little..
So if you are running ARPs I would retorque them after a few engine heat cycles.
Cam caps are all tight, valves are all in spec, I tightened one valve 1 click..
Backed off the timing belt a bit too..
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7858
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome !
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 1565
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:


Today I also retorqued my ARP head studs.. I previously torqued them up to 90 ftlbs..
Today I started at 70 ftlbs and 2 of them moved, then did it again at 90 ftlbs and they all moved atleast a little..
So if you are running ARPs I would retorque them after a few engine heat cycles.


Porsche and ARP have a procedure for this. Did you back them off before retightening? Are you using a stock HG or MLS?
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, CGT turbo, 951 ducted FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife LSD
Now www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=34690
Then www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=31252
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not loosen them. I just went through them again at 70 and then 90..

I worked on my VE table offline last night to make it prettier after going through megalogviewer and adding fuel to a few areas with leaner spots I could identify on the logs..



I'll probably see how it likes that today.. If it screwed it up I still have the old ones saved..

I don't know what VE it's going to like in boost yet really but I thought setting it silly rich where I don't plan to go would be a bit of overboost protection..

Do you think it is in any way a bad thing to just flood with fuel in the event of an overboost (or testing the waters up there)?
Like the opposite of a fuel cut rev limiter..
What do you think about an overfuel rev limit instead of a fuel cut?
I hate the idea of bouncing completely lean at 7000 RPM in a bar of boost..
Could just dumping so much fuel on it it won't run hurt anything?
Short of hydrolocking but I don't think that's going to happen..
What do you think?

Wishing I had a dyno or just a rolling road of resistance I could tune this on, hmmm...

I tried the TPS accel enrichment and it seemed to do it's thing but I have been trying to tune it with accel off to get it the best I could without it..
I need to really learn up on the accel enrichment "wall wetting" and whatnot..
Some lean spots I see are from really slapping on the throttle so a boost with faster TPS movement is needed..

I'll probably try getting my overrun areas to around 14 just so my gauge doesn't flash red on me making me wonder where it is coming from..
It all happens so fast it's hard to know exactly what cells are the problem..

It makes me really understand why you need to tune on a dyno so you can just hold it in whatever cells you want to work on rather than just passing through them..

My ignition switch is going to shit, sometimes it doesn't let off the starter motor.. One time even with the key off the starter was still cranking and I had to pull my battery wire quickly.. Good thing my battery isn't fully installed right now..
I dumped the ignition switch full of WD40 and gave it an italian and it hasn't done that again yet..

The original TB coupler is not going to work longterm, it just doesn't get enough bite..

I think a craftsman lawnmower hood I have is about to be my airbox.. I really need to just get started on it and dive in even though I'm not super sure how I want to do it yet...
I'm going to try to do it the same way the GTS is done..
Should just work on that today..
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CÚdric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1732
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful with too much fuel, it can burn much later than expected and also wash the oil of the walls.

A getto dyno that some people use is to jack up the car, then use the brakes to put load on the eninge. Works well for low load tuning. If you are more serious you can put water jets on the brakes to aid cooling, ive seen it done successfully, just do it with caution.

Load controlling dynos is the only way to go for any serious engine tuning, but of course if money is tight and there is none close by it can be hard.
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CÚdric wrote:
Be careful with too much fuel, it can burn much later than expected and also wash the oil of the walls.

A getto dyno that some people use is to jack up the car, then use the brakes to put load on the eninge. Works well for low load tuning. If you are more serious you can put water jets on the brakes to aid cooling, ive seen it done successfully, just do it with caution.

Load controlling dynos is the only way to go for any serious engine tuning, but of course if money is tight and there is none close by it can be hard.


I did the breaks thing a bit but was very cautious and very little..
Water jets is a good idea if I ever decide to go harder that way.. I'm sure it will kill my rear pads and rotors though, which need upgraded anyway..

So I stopped at an estate sale today on my way to fix my moms mower and found a timing light..
I've been through like 3 timing lights that don't work for crap..

This one works, set my timing to the 20 line at 2k rpm with the vac lines off and plugged..
Put my vac lines back on, turned my idle back down, I get the Z1 line in my window nicely at idle..

That means that the ported vacuum port that I drilled myself into my VW TB is actually working properly, which I am quite happy about
My timing is spot on spec..

I left my phone number at the estate sale to inquire about and possibly make an offer on the property.. It has 2 big airplane hangers and a couple more car bays, steel buildings, and about 3-4 stripped cessnas worth of parts in there.. Few air cooled flat 6 engines.. Probably what he was using the timing light on.. Place is right on the airport..
Man I want that shop BAD!!
Imagine they sell me that place with those stripped planes in it, lol.. I'd prolly die trying to duct tape one together for a test fly, lol..
The guy was like 97 and dies so the house and garages are just old, out of date, and in need of enough fixing for the place to be affordable and probably have a nice ARV..

Anyone need any cessna pieces?
I should get on a cessna forum and see if I can make a few bucks distributing cessna parts..
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CÚdric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1732
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From a Swedish board i hang around on, porsche 968 ls swap race car, doing mapping with the brakes in the garage, low load of course. Garden hose connected to the brakes via some tubing.









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http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
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http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have me imagining a way to attach a squirrel cage to my fmic..

Did a couple pulls, blew the TB coupler, need to find a new one..
Working on my airbox till then..
Got a couple good pulls at a solid 11-12 AFR, spring, feels awesome, sounds awesome.. Might post a log screenshot sometime, I don't get wifi at my car..
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 713
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep at it Fast Eddie, looking good buddy! I have heard a lot of good things about road testing for tuning in real world driving. I will do this with Wilson and then dyno it for the final tune.
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks man you too..

I think the 931 will be coming out of the shed today for the first time in a very long time.. I have to take the car to the welder to tack up my airbox while on the car to get the fit perfect..

Since the car was last parked the "redneck shed" has evolved to where the car won't come out the same way it went in so I have to "Raise The Roof"..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished my custom airbox other than I think I'll paint it black..
https://youtu.be/B-M9O5LjgP4

Looking at it you can definitely tell it wasn't made by a machine, or an artist, it's not perfect looking but it will work about as good as possible..

Let me know if you hate the videos and would rather have pics..
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CÚdric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1732
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool looking airbox, i like that you kept the original filter box in combination with the new FD. The std filter is really good(maybe you remember my K&N dyno runs), and have a large area, and most importantly the big black airbox looks cool and period correct
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7858
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CÚdric wrote:
Cool looking airbox, i like that you kept the original filter box in combination with the new FD. The std filter is really good(maybe you remember my K&N dyno runs), and have a large area, and most importantly the big black airbox looks cool and period correct


+1
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the likes..

CÚdric wrote:
The std filter is really good(maybe you remember my K&N dyno runs), and have a large area,


Yep, I placed a pretty big bet on the standard air filter being suitable for my needs..
About the only other way I would be able to get an air filter on the thing would be through the hood american muscle style anyway sooo... I went with the no hole in the hood method, though a muscle car esque ram air scoop to fit 4 barrel carbs would probably adapt to the FD pretty well..

Something like this but smaller..


Airbox it is..
But, the airbox top housing working really makes me want to duct and seal my nose vents into my lower airbox housing..

I've been looking and I think I could knock that divider/diverter piece out of the middle of the nose area, seal the nose area up real good except a duct over the headlight bar from the nose chamber to the drivers side of the lower airbox housing, all the duct volume I can get to the driver side of the hood latch assembly, and have some SERIOUS RAM AIR going on..

The only thing is the hood latch cable there which woudld be pretty terrifying to screw up and lock my hood closed.. I don't know how I'd ever get in there from the bottom to open it how tight my car is under the hood these days..

I may do it but not soon..

My next job is the oilpan gaskets..
Since the car sat for the HG job now it is just pouring oil off of/out of the back of the oilpan/bellhousing and it is not coming from the HG seam or higher.. I've been in there all over with mirrors and looking everywhere and 90% of it seems to be coming out from between the oilpan and bellhousing..

So I'm about to do that gasket, pretty serious job that, and if that doesn't stop it then it must be the rear main seal..

If it is the rear main then I'm in for a real serious job because I can't go in there without "while I'm in there" cracking the G31 to put in a 2nd gear syncro, doing my shift linkage, and who knows with the clutch..

So it's not like the car is finished yet and ready to go tune and hoon.. I haven't even been running it to tune anymore because it is dumping so much oil.. Like a half a quart to a quart an hour of running.. So something is screwed good.. It always leaked a little but not like this

< sadface

If I end up doing the whole trans job it would put the car a lot closer to being finished up in my view.. Their wouldn't be much left to do other than a longblock besides unnecessary custom stuff I constantly find myself doing..
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