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Another one follows me home.
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 1:09 pm    Post subject: Fitted and glassed Reply with quote

This morning was all about the next stage getting those flares on. I started by test fitting and mounting with sheet metal screws. The drivers side was first and I had to adjust it to get the correct fitment on the rocker below the door. I discovered these flares were designed for the original 924 as the molding doesn't follow the recessed rocker of a 924S. Looking over at my 931 beside this car, the rocker cover is flush with the outer skin. Otherwise everything lined up nice and tight, so after fitting both sides, I removed the flares and wire brushed to bare metal where the piece will join. I found some collision damage near the passenger door with a poor attempt at repair. I stripped the old body filler and I'll put fresh in later. Next I mixed up some fiberglass and brushed on along the fitment area. Moving quickly, I screwed the flare on, brushed on more fiberglass and then laid strips on the fabric with one last coat. Note that it's best to do just one side at a time. I got both sides done and I'll let that cure for a couple days before pulling the screws out.










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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:27 pm    Post subject: Body work done Reply with quote

It's been a long week. I didn't work on the fenders every night but I did put in some long hours over the Thanksgiving Day days off. Using a vibrating sander, sanding block and about a half gallon of body filler I had to fill, shape and sand about four times on each side. The last couple times I painted with sandable primer to help ID bad spots. This is something I'm not that good at and what I ended up with would barely pass at MAACO. But it's a race car and will probably get beat up sooner than later. The toughest spot was blending the rocker section which had several contours. After I wrapped up today I put the 15" x 7" wheels on with the 245 x 40 Hoosiers to get a look a clearance. I don't think there's enough room in the rear fenders for 15" x 10" wheels so I'm going to change the aluminum race wheels order to 15" x 8.5" and run the 245 x 40 which are almost 9" contact patch.














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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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hdrider19  



Joined: 03 May 2016
Posts: 193
Location: Catawissa Missouri(40 mi sw of St Louis)

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's looking pretty good. Keep up the posts. Pics are great. What is the quality of the front bumper?
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hdrider19 wrote:
It's looking pretty good. Keep up the posts. Pics are great. What is the quality of the front bumper?


The GT Racing fiberglass bumper is just for appearance not structural at all. The advertised mounting brackets are fiberglass and match up with the OEM bumper shocks. Of course I removed those and basically pop-riveted the top of the bumper to the bottom lip of the header. It looks good but I wouldn't advise it on a street car.
_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 1:04 am    Post subject: Interior stripping continues Reply with quote

Moving back to the interior I pulled the dash two nights ago. Console out first, loosen the turn indicator/wiper assembly, pull the instrument cluster, pull heater ducts, pull the A pillar trim (some frozen screws there), remove two screws either side of the dash and various connectors. I found the drain tubes on both A pillars had shrunk and were dumping rain water in the floor pans. This issue will be common to these old cars. Anyway, the dash came out and there was a serious tangle of wire harnesses. Last night I continued the process and pulled the heater blower and spliced the coolant hoses to the heater core together behind the engine (tight space, not easy). I thought the heater core would slide out of the box at that point as Porsche made a service opening for it but you have to drop the box down to get clearance for the pipe nipples (good idea, poor execution). So at that point I was able to wiggle the box out. Then I began sorting and untangling the wire harnesses. I'm not cutting into any of them and plan on pulling the one ones not needed out from the fuse or relay panels complete. The goal is to have a working OEM instrument cluster (less fuel gauge), rear tail and turn lights (for now), ignition, exterior mirror adjustment and oil pressure gauge. So I got all that arranged and hooked the instrument cluster, ignition and oil pressure gauge back up (just kind of laid those in place) and started the car up... SUCCESS! Oddly, the sun roof opened (hadn't worked prior) and I figured that was due to the pins on the ends of that sub-harness touching being off the switch. I guess I'll use that until I fix the sun roof closed. Next will be mounting the gauges and eliminating unused wires, relays, etc.
















_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 11:15 am    Post subject: Gauge mounts Reply with quote

Without the dash and console it becomes a challenge to figure out how to mount the needed instruments and gauges. There's some aftermarket bezel plates for the smaller gauges but I didn't find anything for the instrument cluster. I came up with the idea of basically using the OEM bezel and suspending that under a hood. First step is to make a cardboard mock-up and confirm fitment. Note that the surface under the windshield has some contour so that complicated fitment a bit. Next I transferred the measurements to 22g. sheet metal and cut that out. I use pieces of iron bar, angle iron, clamps and a bench vice to make the bends. Once I've got the hood all shaped, I made a few welds to stiffen the mounting flange. Then I clean the sheet metal and prime with self etching primer. I let that cure a couple days and then spray another coat of satin black enamel. This morning it's time to mount that and first I rerouted the instrument harness a bit to the right. I found the best spot to mount was right over the fan resister so I re-positioned that on the left. After pre-drilling the mounting flange and the top, I pop riveted the hood to the bulkhead, made all the connections and screwed the bezel to the hood using the original two holes in the bezel. Only cost for this solution was the sheet metal and I needed more of that for what I did in the next post.
















_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 11:27 am    Post subject: Small gauge mount Reply with quote

So while I was waiting on the instrument hood paint to dry, I figured out a way to mount the OEM gauge pod. Same idea as above but just make some brackets to for inside of the bezel using the original screw holes. Again, mock-up the brackets with cardboard, transfer to sheet metal, cut, weld and paint. This piece mounted nicely just right of the instrument hood. There's two holes left open for oil temp gauge and ??? I used pop rivets to secure the bracket to the bulkhead and the bezel to the bracket. Very solid mount.

To finish the day, I made cover plates for voids left when I pulled the heater fan, heat hoses and AC hoses. Unfortunately I had to chop the AC hoses up into several pieces to get them out of the engine compartment. I couldn't see any other way less dropping the engine.








_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 11:15 am    Post subject: Wiring, cut-off switch and fiberglass support Reply with quote

Last weekend and during the week I was able to get a couple more items done. First was completing the interior wiring. I decided to just straighten out the harness, attach to the firewall and pull un-used fuses. I also used the OEM bezels for the headlight switch and e-flashers. Just found a couple good spots to tie wrap those in place. Then I moved under the front end to fabricate two supports where the fiberglass fenders join the air damn. That area was vibrating and prone to getting bashed with a traffic cone. So I used some small bar stock and angle iron to make brackets. Those utilize the bolts joining the fiberglass and I simply welded the other ends to the OEM fender brackets. Works great!

Later in the week I decided to mount a battery cut-off switch. I found a great spot in the bulkhead behind the battery. There was a small hole already plugged with a grommet so I tried to use a hole saw to enlarge that. Well the drill is jumping around (not being able to use the pilot bit) so I fabricated a simple jig out of a 2 x 4. The switch is mounted but I'll need to source some large solder terminals for the battery main.
















_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 11:26 am    Post subject: Pulling the trans-axle Reply with quote

So I decided this weekend to start in on the clutch and flywheel replacement. First out are the CV axles and those actually look pretty good. Even the boots are solid so hopefully I'll just clean them up real good and repack with grease. Then I dropped the exhaust, released the spline coupler, released the shift rod and pushed that forward. When I dropped the trans-axle on mu 931, it was a real struggle to keep it balanced on my floor jack so I decided to fabricate a custom block to support that better. A few slices with a skill saw and some chiseling - BAM instant trans jack! That worked SO MUCH better.










_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:37 am    Post subject: Making room for a fuel cell Reply with quote

So after getting the trans axle out, I drop the fuel tank. Those of you who saw my early posts on this car may remember that this tank had a lot of internal rust which eventually made pin holes at the bottom. I had sealed that up but this tank is shot. Anyway, I've got a nice aluminum fuel cell from my 914 and I started taking measurements on getting that in the same spot. 17" x 17" x 12" and the spare tire well is in the way. Taking a close look at how that was incorporated into the rear chassis, some of it appears to be structural with the rear bulkhead. So I decided to basically cut 1/2 out and see how the fuel cell fits at that point. I'm going to have to get the trans axle back in to get exact placement and take more measurements for a supporting frame. So I'm putting a hold on that until I get the clutch job done. Lots of goodies in the boxes in the last photo
















_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 1:52 am    Post subject: Pulling the clutch and flywheel Reply with quote

My first time doing this on 924S/944 but it went mostly well... so far. The speed and reference sensors didn't want to slide out of the mount so to get leverage I used two vice grip pliers. One gripping the sensor and another biting the handle to extend. I had already pulled the torque tube back and pulled the starter mid-week. So next was the clutch fork lever rod and Clark's gave some tips on that. Using vice grips on a long 8 mm bolt threaded into the end and hammering wasn't producing any movement. Even with liberal application of PB Blaster so I came up with another idea. Cutting a 1" segment of some steel tubing and a wider flat washer, I made a extraction jig with that 8 mm bolt. That produced results but it was still slow going until that rod finally let loose. So next was the bell housing bolts which the top two were troublesome to get to. I wiggled the bell housing out and revealed the rusty pressure plate. Only three of the cheese head bolts came out with a ratchet drive (the others stripped, of course) so that was end of day Saturday. Yesterday morning I got up and rebuilt the CV axles which I did get new boots. Those are less than $10 each and that's well worth not having to clean the old grease out of the original boots. No cracks in the cages and the bearings cleaned up nicely. Later yesterday after buying some much better drill bits, I'm back under the car drilling out those pressure plate bolts. That finally comes free and the friction plate is definitely toast. You can see the flywheel surface is burnt also so that clutch would have completely failed soon. Thank goodness the flywheel bolts came loose with a long breaker bar and steady torque. With the flywheel out you can see the rear main seal is leaking so I'll clean that area up and replace. New parts will start going in soon and I'm hoping to have the drive train back together by the end of the holidays.
















_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Putting it back together has gone okay so far. I found some interesting things out about the reference, speed and timing sensors. You can read about that here...

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=42819

So I moved forward from there after installing the new rear main seal, pilot bearing and SPEC flywheel. The SPEC 1 pressure plate is a thing of beauty and comes with hex head bolts instead of triple square (much better). The bell housing went on fairly easily which I attribute to having removed all that awful insulation from the firewall. The only tricky part is keeping the loose shift fork in position as your lining up the bell housing. Then I mated up the torque tube, installed the clutch slave cylinder and starter. Installed new speed and reference sensors and confirmed ignition after installing the headers. A buddy stopped by yesterday and assisted installing the trans axle, mating up the drive coupler and stabbing the shift rod. It was a huge help just to have another hand pushing on the clutch peddle and shift rod. So I'll just need to get the CV axles back in and put the exhaust back on before moving on to the fuel cell. I measured some more and the fuel cell I've got just won't fit well without more modifications and fabricating so I ordered a smaller unit. That arrives in a few days for a long weekend and hopefully I have the fuel delivery system done by next week.














_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 12:56 pm    Post subject: Fuel cell installation Reply with quote

The new fuel cell install went fairly well excluding interruptions to repair a leaking water service to our home. Once I determined the exact location for the fuel cell I started fabricating a hanging frame. It's made from 3/4" angle iron and captures the sides of the fuel cell top, bottom and side. Those two frames are in turn joined with 3/4" threaded rod so it can be disassembled. To mount to the underside of the rear trunk pan I welded some tabs of bar stock and drilled to except carriage bolts from above. The best spot was on the right side of the trans axle and the fill cap almost perfectly lines up with the fuel sender access hole. After painting the frame I got it mounted and started hooking up the fuel lines. The fuel cell came with -8AN fittings so I ordered -8AN to hose barb adapters. The fuel pump is in it's OE position. I'm not completely happy with the hoses but there's no leaks and it's good for testing. Add some fuel and the engine fires right up. You can definitely tell there's a lightweight flywheel as it revs up super quick! The final things I took care of were installing a better connecting piece under the J boot and fabricating a cover for the rear trunk where the spare tire once was. Successful holiday weekend. Very satisfying.










_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:47 pm    Post subject: Refurbish brakes Reply with quote

When I got this 924S I was pleased that the calipers, pads and rotors were in okay condition. I did replace the hoses early on and adjusted the parking brake. But now that I'm finally about to get custom aluminum racing wheels, I decided to freshen up the brakes. I started by pulling the rear calipers, rotors and protective plates. All the seals and dust boots were good so I cleaned up the calipers and painted them with ceramic paint. The hardware cleaned up well so I reused that also. I also took a wire brush to the protective plates to get those looking good. The rear plates are aluminum and I later found the fronts were sheet metal (with some corrosion). After letting the paint cure a few days I took delivery on Mintex pads and Cardon disks. Even though this is an autocross car I prefer a softer pad so it's not too easy to lock up brakes and flat spot r-compound tires. After getting the rears done I moved to the fronts and same procedure there. Probably a good time to replace front wheel bearings but I just cleaned out the old grease and freshly re-packed. I also finally wired the cut-off switch and did a better hose set on the fuel cell. Super excited about the racing wheels and should take delivery on those by weeks end!


















_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 236
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 2:26 am    Post subject: Bogart Racing wheels Reply with quote

Finally got the 15 x 8.5 aluminum wheels from Bogart. Just had time to unpack before work and they look great! I'll check fitment tonight.

I've also decided to shoot the car myself with single stage poly. So I'm preparing one bay in the garage for that and I'll begin paint prep on the car also.






_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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