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Rear wheel arch rolling
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 307
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 8:52 am    Post subject: Rear wheel arch rolling Reply with quote

Has anyone rolled the rear wheel arch with the "proper" hub mounted tool?

I have 245s in the rear, and they will rub against the flange pointing inwards, but before I switch to other tires I would like to investigate the possibility of rolling the arch.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fender roller will definitely help. There's a good size lip you can flatten out.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
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Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No tool needed. You can do it by hand with a hammer/mallet if you're careful.
Heavy plastic, rubber or leather covered steel will work.
Make sure to remove the undercoating from around the top of the lip, if you dont, you'll be trying to compress it in the fold making it difficult. You can prime & reseal if you want to before the last bit is done & the seam is closed.
Go slow, a little at a time working all around the edge. Too much too fast will cause waves in the body.
I would also caution against doing it in the cold, the paint will be more prone to cracking. You may need to touch up the lips anyway but it is possible, depending on your patience & the paint on the car, to do it without cracking.
You can have cracking even with the tool if the paint is thick, brittle or there is filler in the area.
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michaelodonnell123  



Joined: 20 Mar 2015
Posts: 234
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not take the chance. If you split the lip [and it is not hard to do] you will have a mess on your hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZN8XsTJYJw

Watch what this guy did.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or, if you don't have a hammer, you can carefully bite down on the fender lip...just be sure to use a piece of leather to protect the paint.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

michaelodonnell123 wrote:
I would not take the chance. If you split the lip [and it is not hard to do] you will have a mess on your hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZN8XsTJYJw

Watch what this guy did.


"Splitting the lip" is very difficult to do. The metal used on the 924/44/68 is quite pliable. It takes numerous bends to fatigue it to the cracking point. Even the most ham fisted goon is not going to spilt it doing a bend. The quarter will end up as straight as a lasagna noodle if you just beat the hell out of it but it won't split.

The moron in the video got impatient with the rolling and decided to cut the lip to relieve it to get an easier bend. Now he's going to cut it free of the wheel well & mount a flair on that thin metal, what a mess that's going to be.
The 928 uses very thin metal to keep weight down, its also soft & easy to warp. The front fenders are very thin aluminum. The heat from body filler curing is enough to warp those fenders. What you think is going to happen when he tries the same method on them?

The most overlooked part is cleaning the rubberized undercoating off from around the top of the lip, the metal does not want to fold when your trying to compress the undercoating between it.

I don't care one way or the other if the op rolls the flairs or not or how he does it. I have done it numerous times though, so I do know what works & what doesn't.
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Munky  



Joined: 13 Jan 2016
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Location: Minnesnowta USA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:


The most overlooked part is cleaning the rubberized undercoating off from around the top of the lip, the metal does not want to fold when your trying to compress the undercoating between it.


What is the best way of cleaning the undercoating off? And what would you recommend putting in it's place to prevent rust?
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The body is galvanized, so the undercoating is for noise and to prevent sand blasting the paint off the inside.

Freeze with dry ice or gently heat with a torch/heat gun.

Replace with rubber bedliner or rubberized undercoating.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
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Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Munky wrote:
jason c wrote:


The most overlooked part is cleaning the rubberized undercoating off from around the top of the lip, the metal does not want to fold when your trying to compress the undercoating between it.


What is the best way of cleaning the undercoating off? And what would you recommend putting in it's place to prevent rust?


Don't torch it or blast it, there's no reason to.
Its tough to remove in large amounts but small amounts aren't that bad. You only need to remove what is/will be between the lip and the wheel well when you roll it- approximately 1/2". The most important area in the inside corner (think of it like folding up a towel, putting it inside your elbow then trying to bend you arm & touch your shoulder).
You should be able to scrape it off with a flat head screwdriver without too much trouble. You can use a head gun to warm it but I wouldn't go crazy because you only need to remove a small amount. Generally heat is tough to control in a small area, you'll likely destroy more area than you want to.

I use epoxy on bare metal. I also spray the factory type undercoating back on after I roll the lip. For best protection, I would put some undercoating & in the lip when is 90% rolled and then finish rolling the lip. You don't necessarily need to smash the lip flat.
You can also use a seam sealer, some are DTM (direct to metal). You can apply some thin seam sealer with a small brush using a dabbing method to replicate the factory undercoating look.

If you're going to roll them & aren't planning on painting the quarters, you need to make sure there's no filler or excessive paint within a few inches of the lip. If there is, you will likely have cracking.

A heavy hammer with light blows will work better than a light hammer with heavy blows.
Work your way around the lip & go easy. Do NOT rush.
You can use a rubber sanding block or similar on the outside edge of the lip to reinforce the quarter from flex when hammering on the lip.
90° seaming pliers will get most of the lip bent if you prefer but you still must go slow.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I attempted the home-brew approach to rolling the inner lip and it cracked my paint From my experience, I would never attempt this without the right tool. YMMV.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's nothing magical about the tool. It bends the lip with pressure as its rolled back & forth. The same can be done by hand with patience. Its not a 10 minute job.

If the paint is brittle it will crack even with the tool.
Temperature can make a difference. Warm paint has more flex than cold paint. I definitly recommend warming the paint & keeping it warm as you roll the lip. You want it to feel hot to the touch but not so hot it blisters the paint. Heat even helps with brittle paint.
There's always a risk involved when doing any metal work that the paint can be damaged.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Insufferable Knowitall wrote:
There's nothing magical about the tool.


Gradually putting pressure on the fender lip in a completely progressive and controllable fashion is not the same as hitting it with a hammer. How could it be?

And, why do you care whether OP uses a fender roller? They are a dime a dozen to rent cheaply or borrow (over here anyway).
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Munky  



Joined: 13 Jan 2016
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input.
Filed away for when I need it
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jason c  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wannabe knowitall but doesn't- internet bully with jealousy issues wrote:
Insufferable Knowitall wrote:
There's nothing magical about the tool.


Gradually putting pressure on the fender lip in a completely progressive and controllable fashion is not the same as hitting it with a hammer. How could it be?

And, why do you care whether OP uses a fender roller? They are a dime a dozen to rent cheaply or borrow (over here anyway).


Since you obviously don't have any discernable metal skill, I wouldn't expect you to understand.
How many fender lips have you rolled, with the tool or hammer? Answer: none

I suppose I should have just said "use the search function" or "google is your friend".
Knowledgeable, experience based answers must be insufferable to you because you don't seem to have too many of them. You're a dick for no reason, you throw rocks, go hide under your bed and then get pissed when people fire back.

And as I said above...
jason c wrote:
I don't care one way or the other if the op rolls the flairs or not or how he does it. I have done it numerous times though, so I do know what works & what doesn't.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
How many fender lips have you rolled, with the tool or hammer? Answer: none.


I see.



Not sure how you claim to know this, but we sure have learned more about you in recent days!
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