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944 S2 Lower Ball joints

 
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 669
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 2:27 pm    Post subject: 944 S2 Lower Ball joints Reply with quote

I understand they are not serviceable? what options do I have,

thanks
Daniel
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace the control arms with new OE units.

Replace the control arms with aftermarket fabricated arms that use serviceable ball joints.

Buy this service kit:

http://rennbay.com/Ball-Joints/
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 946
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Theoretically not serviceable.......but if you check around the various US vendors, they pretty much all sell the kits, or parts thereof.
Make sure you get the full kit.....pretty easy to fit...just take care on the Ali arms when pressing out/in. And do both sides!
Worked fine for me.
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80/81 932/8 ROW
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely serviceable.

The plastic bushings are "ok" for a street car bit I prefer the bronze. Definitely get the bronze kit if its a track car.

The reason the arms get a bad rep is because when the plastic bushing disintegrates, the ball portion of the pin wears on the aluminum & eventually breaks it. The bronze bushing is much stronger.
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
Definitely serviceable.

The plastic bushings are "ok" for a street car bit I prefer the bronze. Definitely get the bronze kit if its a track car.

The reason the arms get a bad rep is because when the plastic bushing disintegrates, the ball portion of the pin wears on the aluminum & eventually breaks it. The bronze bushing is much stronger.


They're also prone to cracking the area around the balljoint if the car is excessively lowered or bottomed out often.

The steel arms are less prone to cracking, ball joints are easily and inexpensively replaced and they soak up damage, reducing damage to the frame.
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 669
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All
The car is low mileage and orignal, been a convertible I have no intention of ever taking it to the track (thats what the 924 is for!).
Jason C, do you know where I can get the plastic bushes from?

Thanks

Daniel
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 946
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eckler's.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fiat22turbo wrote:

They're also prone to cracking the area around the balljoint if the car is excessively lowered or bottomed out often.

The steel arms............soak up damage, reducing damage to the frame.


None of this is true. Its a well known farce that the travel is the aluminum arms cracking issue. The arms have more than 6" of travel in each direction from parallel to the ground, the strut shafts are only 8" long. You cannot max out the aluminum arms travel with anything near a normal suspension setup. There isn't enough room between the tire & fender to max out the arms travel either.

Steel doesn't absorb anything, all force & vibration will be directly translated to the frame. This is the reason the aluminum suspension was implemented, to reduce road vibrations transmitted to the cabin.

I would agree that the steel arms are stronger, they would be my choice for off-road duty. However, I run aluminum arms on my racecar & have had no problems or concerns doing so. I guarantee my car sees more abuse than any street car or d.e. car is going to see.

daniel wrote:
Hi All
The car is low mileage and orignal, been a convertible I have no intention of ever taking it to the track (thats what the 924 is for!).
Jason C, do you know where I can get the plastic bushes from?

Thanks

Daniel


I haven't bought the plastic in a long time, not sure who (if anyone) still carries them. You aren't saving that much using the plastic, the bronze will outlast the car.
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 669
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So i am doing some research on the most economical way to solve this problem. Is it correct that steel arms and associated ball joints from an earlier 944/924 would work?
I understand that there is no mount for the swaybar, but I have seen a reference where a 1/2" hole is drilled in the steel arm and a thick washer welded either side for strengthening...
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 669
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=page&id=46&chapter=1

^^^ This is the link I was referring to above
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 946
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Daniel...having both early and late cars of the 924/944 series, you should by now realise there are vast differences in wheel/stub offsets.
And although the various arms will seemingly interchange, the offsets for wheel and brakes will be up the shit.
The only steel arms that will provide the correct offset for your late model are the type used in the 944 Series (chrome moly with proper Heim joints) at around $1000 per set!

Bite the bullet, save up and buy the replacement kits (bronze cups). Still way cheaper than replacement arms ($650+ per side OEM).

I've seen the various vendors sell the complete kits for under $100 per side when they have their sales.

See you at Rennsport!
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