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Ok nebie needs more help

 
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jazzerpet  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have decided to pull and rebuild the engine in my recently acquired 931. I am attempting to pull the short block without the bellhousing. what am I doing wrong? I cant get the engine to separate from the bellhousing. more then 1/2 inch.
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Zuffen  



Joined: 31 Jul 2001
Posts: 1426
Location: Owasso, Oklahoma 74055

PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you haven't removed the flywheel sensor you probably screwed it up.

_________________
Bob Dodd - 924turbo@cox.net
931 1982, 944 1982 euro, 924S 1988SE, 93 968 tip 06 Silver Cayenne S, 06 Black Cayenne S

I have Way too many cars, parts for the 931,944 and 951
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Paul  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also have you removed the clutch fork shaft?

I have found it to be a lot easier to remove the radiator and lift the motor out the top with the bell housing intact. Try this site for an online manual (don't tell Gohim)

http://www.geocities.com/eturbo924/
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gohim  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you do anything else, I would suggest that you get a copy of the Factory Workshop Manual. The Haynes Manual contains enough information to help you with minor service work, but when you are getting ready to spend $2K or more, on replacement parts and machine work, it is best to have good reference materials to help you make repair decisions, and help you remove and install the engine.

A Haynes Manual costs less than $15, and you should be able to buy the Factory Workshop manual new for $180, or a used one for between $50-$100.

"Zuffen" is going to be selling his spare used factory Manuals now that he has a brand new current revision factory manual that he bought from me a few weeks ago.

It is a lot easier to pull the bell housing with the engine. All you have to do is disconnect the clutch slave cylinder mounting and secure it away from the bell housing, and then remove the four bolts from the torque tube.

Otherwise you have to pull the clutch shift fork shaft, and it is always a PITA while laying under the car.

I have found it much easier to drop the engine out the bottom, as the Factory Service Manual instructs you to do, then to suffer trying to pull it out the top (lots more front to rear clearance going out the bottom).

[ This Message was edited by: gohim on 2002-09-02 03:31 ]
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D Hook  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PSSST...Gohim...(whispering)...I think he's going to spend alot more than $2 overhauling that engine.
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Paul  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Gohim in that the factory manual is the way to go if you can afford it. I have the factory turbo supplement and a Haynes manual, together they have kept me out of trouble.

If I had a car lift (the Porsche manual is written for their service staff so they assume everyone has a lift) and an alignment machine to reset the front suspension, I would drop the motor out the bottom. I did this once, but since my jack stands are not tall enough, I had to use my engine lift to raise the front of the car high enough to drag the motor out of the passenger wheel well.

I hate working under cars so I adjust my methods to stay on top.

You do not have to touch the front suspension to yank it out the top, just remove the radiator.

Some like it on top, some like it on the bottom, but we both smile when we're done.
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jazzerpet  
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2002 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I purchased the shop manuals new a few days ago. But with Labor Day they wont get to me until next week. I have the haynes. Flywheel sensor I don't see any reference to it in the haynes I will look again. I will look into pulling the bellhousing. also. the 4 bolts on the back just looked a little hard to get to. Maybe I should just wait for my manuals, take the boat out for the long weekend and relax. I was just counting on getting it out this weekend.
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gohim  
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2002 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

D Hook,

Okay, I fixed my typo, I meant to right $2K or more, and not $2.
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gohim  
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2002 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can drop the engine out the bottom without a lift. But, it does require tall jackstands.

I bought a set of 6T stands from WalMart for about $26 last year so I could drop the complete subframe and drive train from the 96 Taurus Wagon that I bought off eBay.

The lift is about 25", and getting 32" to clear the complete front subframe with power train was easy.

I used the same jackstands and procedure when I pulled the engine from my 83 944 parts car the same way, a few months ago, and the clearance required was much less.

Less height is required at the front end if you take the engine out sideways through the wheel well, rather than try to go out under the front.

[ This Message was edited by: gohim on 2002-09-02 04:04 ]
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friskynibbles  
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2002 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ooooooooooookkkkkkkkkkk

i need just a little bit of help here.

why the hell can't i get the porsche bellhousing off of the damn chev block? i mean, it's loose and all but it just won't come off...

somebody must know what to do.

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friskynibbles  
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2002 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ooooooooooookkkkkkkkkkk

i need just a little bit of help here.

why the hell can't i get the porsche bellhousing off of the damn chev block? i mean, it's loose and all but it just won't come off...

somebody must know what to do.

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