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Project: JjyKs' 924na goes EFI turbo
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SUCCESS

The wheel works with EDIS. The signal actually seems to be pretty strong since i mounted to wheel to the electric screwdriver and it was wobbling quite much. After i got the VR sensor close enough it didn't actually care about that wobble at all.




The missfires on the video are caused by me moving the VR sensor too far away from the wheel. Was quite hard to hold the screwdriver on with my feet, vr sensor on the hand and filming with second hand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9SKjugr4DY

Also, finished the design for the lightened wheel. My father who works with metal and autocad said that 3 spokes with a width over 5mm should be enough since it's only holding it's own weight. However i think that he referred to the one with 10mm thickness since that's what i showed him. Made the spokes ~7mm on the outer ring, and 17mm on the inner ring to minimize the rotating mass caused by them.


Looks like something Mercedes would use in their cars


And here's a link to the Autocad file in case someone wondering if 72-2 / 72-1-1 cam mounted wheel will work with EDIS stumbles here and doesn't want to use normal 36-1 crank mounted one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nvlpuojr2q5ymcs/lightened_wheel.dwg?dl=0

AutoCAD has 30 day free trial and unlimited student license which doesn't seem to actually even check if you're student..
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7886
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice !
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Long time no updates. However now I have 3 weeks free from work and I've been also working on some small things for the car already without posting an updates.



Here's the new trigger wheel (still need to make a wedge or something to actually keep it in one position..)



You can also see the VR sensor mount I made. Still needs some finishing touch, but I'm pretty happy how it turned out (I don't even have pipe bender..). The whole thing was first welded together, and then I casted some epoxy to both ends to make it even sturdier and better looking



Here you can see how it's adjustable. I didn't want to make static one, so there's a smaller chance to mess it up and needing to remake the whole thing. The ends of the "locking mechanism" still needs some finishing, but it's 5am here so I didn't want to wake my neighbours up with my grinder







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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And here it is "finished". Still could use some refining, but i'll do it when the car is running.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7886
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont like this solution.
First, the vibrations of the engine might cause the sensor mount to fail.
Second, every time you change the timing belt you have to re-set the position of the sensor.
Then, that wheel is looking freaky just standing, but rotating it will be even more freaky
And in the end, i dont like that you're using the wheel as an aluminium washer for that screw that holds the cam gear in position to the cam..also loosing some threads of fixation.

Cant you use a crank gear like everybody else?
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

morghen wrote:

First, the vibrations of the engine might cause the sensor mount to fail.

The mount is really sturdy (is this a word? ), the vibrations shouldn't really break it. It wasn't really resonating at all even without the epoxy blobs in the ends, and now it doesn't even twist by hand.

morghen wrote:

Second, every time you change the timing belt you have to re-set the position of the sensor.

Maybe. It's possible to remove the belt without removing the mount completely so the overall position should stay pretty much the same.

morghen wrote:

Then, that wheel is looking freaky just standing, but rotating it will be even more freaky

If by freaky you mean scary then yes I agree with you. However i checked that there should be enough space to modify the original cam cover to cover this one as well. So it's getting covered


morghen wrote:

And in the end, i dont like that you're using the wheel as an aluminium washer for that screw that holds the cam gear in position to the cam..also loosing some threads of fixation.

It's steel I'll also get a longer bolt whenever I find a new one. However the current bolt is also very long. Didn't measure it but it really loses only fraction of the threads by this.

morghen wrote:

Cant you use a crank gear like everybody else?

Yes I could but it would require more machining or ordering parts from Ideola and tools that I don't have right now to remove the crank wheel (my sockets have too thick walls to fit the crank bolt..?) and also my impact gun doesn't even fit there. So I'm just trying if this thing works to save a lot of time and money
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished the wiring today (started building the last parts at 4am, and now it's 9am ) It still needs to be hidden and covered with proper sleeve where visible, so no pictures for now, but after the morning traffic disappears i'll go and get new spark plugs and wires for them and try to start her !

After that I can start building the turbo rack and crossover pipe, fitting the intercooler and pulling the oil lines.
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macBdog  



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
Posts: 1100
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off JjyKs, love what you are doing and the fact that you are doing it all yourself.

I will also put my hand up to say you should re-think that trigger wheel solution. The primary reason is it looks agricultural and you can do better.

It also looks prone to vibration, you've reduced the clamping force on the timing belt tensioner bolt and the wiring ends up on the hot side.

What about a solution that clamps down on the same plane as the rocker cover bolts?
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

macBdog wrote:
First off JjyKs, love what you are doing and the fact that you are doing it all yourself.

I will also put my hand up to say you should re-think that trigger wheel solution. The primary reason is it looks agricultural and you can do better.

It also looks prone to vibration, you've reduced the clamping force on the timing belt tensioner bolt and the wiring ends up on the hot side.

What about a solution that clamps down on the same plane as the rocker cover bolts?


Thanks man! I was thinking about that but there's not enough room on any other side than the one I'm using right now when the bonnet is closed. Drivers side has fuel lines and top has bonnet. I agree with both of you that it looks quite funny/wonky, but let's see, personally I think that it should work and if it doesn't work properly and/or breaks I will most likely just move to the crank trigger or make a static holder without adjustment after I know the right position for the sensor. Right now my priority is to get the engine running so I can move the car when needed.

And good news! Got the spark plug wires and EDIS works. Gonna eat now and connect the injector wiring to the car after that and try if it wakes up after the long winter
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

#### yeah! The car started on first try (after troubleshooting MS not getting rpm signal from edis even though the edis fired with no problems, the reason for that was "skip something (cant remember what..)" in ignition settings. Default was 1 and somebody said to try 6 and it worked). After that the engine was coughing but not starting. Swapped sides of edis coils and boom, the engine started and even idled (didn't keep it running since it lacks exhaust manifold and coolant.)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnHk-pc8lIs&feature=youtu.be
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mounted the exhaust manifold today. Also started the crossover pipe.



(My welding skills and machine sucks, it's an old gassless mig one..) The topside is welded from inside (don't worry, there aren't any "splashes" there. Didn't just have time to remove them from outside. Gonna do that tomorrow.) Also, even though it looks ugly it at least held water inside for 30 minutes without any visible leaks.

This crossover pipe will be only thing I'm going to weld. I'll leave the rest of the exhaust to someone who really knows what he's doing
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JjyKs  



Joined: 05 Oct 2015
Posts: 114
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote





Crossover pipe mostly done (spot welded). Still need to lift it a bit higher, right now it's about 4cm lower than the crossmember/oilpan.

Also need to figure some local place where I can get some V-Bands without ordering them.
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