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My third 924 is a 931 restore thread
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Well, I'll tell you brother, it is not in the parts catalog, and I don't think it belongs there. The WUR needs a boost signal, and timing retard needs vacuum, as does the vacuum limiter. With a one way check valve, components on that line aren't going to work right.


All righty, then I'll take sucker out of line and put in a hose splice. Wouldn't that be great if that fixed my cold start problems? Fat chance...
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Han Solo wrote:
Rasta Monsta wrote:
Well, I'll tell you brother, it is not in the parts catalog, and I don't think it belongs there. The WUR needs a boost signal, and timing retard needs vacuum, as does the vacuum limiter. With a one way check valve, components on that line aren't going to work right.


All righty, then I'll take sucker out of line and put in a hose splice. Wouldn't that be great if that fixed my cold start problems? Fat chance...


Just to confirm... we're talking about this check valve, right?


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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11332
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 1:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, and I would verify ignition timing after the deed is done.
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Yes, and I would verify ignition timing after the deed is done.


You know the 931 specs off-hand? Dwell?
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11332
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have the original distributor, there are no points, so no dwell.

Timing is set at 2000RPM, vacuum disconnected at distributor. Timing mark on flywheel (window on driver's side, under coil) is marked "20."
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
If you have the original distributor, there are no points, so no dwell.

Timing is set at 2000RPM, vacuum disconnected at distributor. Timing mark on flywheel (window on driver's side, under coil) is marked "20."


Perfect. Thanks Rasta!
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the distributor isn't vacuum advance on this car. From what I've read enrichment is done through the DITC via TPS. I was able to confirm correct timing at idle with my timing light. I'm beginning to suspect the TPS as sometimes the engine doesn't return to idle. I can blip the throttle and eventually it will settle. It's not the throttle cable as that's free and clear.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought it was an 80?
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Thought it was an 80?


No sir. It's an '82. Found some good links this morning...

http://www.porsche924-944.nl/924/Troubleshooting.html

http://members.rennlist.org/vilhuer/K%20Jetronic%20Workshop%20Manual.pdf

I like that K-Jetronic manual but it's only up to '79. You haven't seen a revision for the later cars have you?
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 1:40 pm    Post subject: Engine fire! Reply with quote

And I was getting so close...

This evening I pulled the aux air regulator and cold start valve for testing. I put the AAR in the freezer and opened up as specified and then applied 12V to the connector and it slow closed. Great. Then I jumped the fuel pump circuit after pulling out the cold start valve from the manifold, applied 12V from the coil with a test lead and turned the ignition on. No fuel spray. So I took the valve to my bench and started squirting brake cleaner in the fuel line connection. I also hooked some test leads to the connector and gave it 12V to get the valve to open. I could here it clicking so I did the test in the engine bay again and now it was spraying. The final test is to take away the 12V leads and turn the ignition on (fuel pump still jumpered) and see if the valve leaks. No leaks. Great. I'm thinking that could have been why I never have been able to start this car without ether. So I start putting everything back together for a try. I loosened the banjo fitting on the cold start valve to get it bolted back on the intake. Everything back together. Fuel pump relay back in and turn the key... it starts first time! Wow! So I'm letting it idle and warm up and get out of the car... there's a fire right over the distributor and intake. There's fuel dripping on the floor and it's burning too. Holy shit! My first though is to push the car out of the garage but it's on skates. Then I jump in and turn the ignition off. Then run outside, grab a garden hose and put the fire out. The flames had already gone down after turning the ignition off and stopping the fuel pump. But now that the fire is out I realize I must have left that fuel connection on the cold start valve loose and it was spraying fuel into the distributor and coil. So I've got a major set back on this one. I didn't look the damage over real close but I know that harness for the AAV, CSV, TPS, etc. is toast. There's two multi-connectors on the firewall so hopefully all the wiring damage is downstream of those.


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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 12:19 am    Post subject: Damage assessment Reply with quote

Well I dug out the engine wiring harness and I think it's salvageable. The jacket took most of the burning. Some of the smaller branch leads will have to have new wire spliced in but all the connectors look okay. One smaller branch of the main harness is toast. I found a couple of used harnesses but $200 appears to be the going price. I'll have to replace the spark plug and coil wires. Those were basically new The new silicon vacuum lines came through pretty well and it looks like two elbows are fried. I'll test the aux air regulator again and I think it will be okay. The cold start valve is toasty so I can't take a chance of a leak there. Used prices for those are about $50. The vacuum limiter has a lot of soot but if that's a metal diaphragm, it should be good. I'll need to find a testing procedure for that. While I'm down in this area I've decided it would be best to replace all the small fuel lines. I'm searching for a hose company that can deal with that stuff now. And lastly, I'll need to replace the small boost gauge hose that melted. Looks like this mistake will ultimately cost $500-$700 but that includes replacing hoses that would have had to been replaced anyway.






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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:47 pm    Post subject: Slow progress Reply with quote

I received a replacement engine harness and cold start valve from DC Automotive. That was $315 with free shipping. There was one plug missing on the used harness but I was able to salvage the same from the burnt harness. I checked continuity on any suspect circuits. The used cold start valve looks clean but that will have to be tested when I put everything back together. I also shipped all the engine compartment fuel hoses to Special T. No word yet on that cost but from what I've seen on his site, it should be in the $200-$300 range. I'm very tempted to send him the fuel distributor and WUV but will probably wait on that. That rebuild cost for those parts is a pretty good chunk of change


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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
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Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

$315 for the harness......cough. I'd want it hand delivered by 18 year old virgins for that price
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carrera RSR wrote:
$315 for the harness......cough. I'd want it hand delivered by 18 year old virgins for that price


The harness was priced at $195 and $120 for the starting valve. That's the best price I could find for the harness. I saw another start valve for $50 on eBay but it looked pretty crusty.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 224
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 1:47 pm    Post subject: Good news Reply with quote

I received the braided steel fuel lines from Special T last week and finally got around to re-assembling today. The fuel lines went on mostly without drama except for the one that has the T with the cycle valve. John sent me two lines with a dual lug banjo bolt that was supposed to fit into the output of the cycle valve. Unfortunately it doesn't - wrong size. So I put back in the original for testing. Then I started putting the engine harness back in. That connector on the thermotime really is a pain! I had one wire left over at the back but I figured out that goes to the coolant temp sender. I got the vacuum regulator, WUV and all the vacuum hoses back in. Then I set the engine at TDC and put the distributor back in. I'm glad I kept the plug wires and coil that came with the car as the new ones were burnt in the fire. So I put those back in but left the coil wire off while I jumped the fuel pump circuit to check for fuel leaks. One hose was a tad loose on the fuel distributor so I snugged that up and all good. Put the coil wire on and started cranking. It caught a couple times but I had to use ether to get it running. That's huge as I was worried that the flywheel sensor got toasted in the fire and that would have killed this project. Tomorrow I need to go back in and get that wire on the temp sender and double check the distributor timing. I think I'll also test the replacement cold start injector and maybe I can get this back to where it was before it caught fire!






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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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