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My third 924 is a 931 restore thread
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kcoyle wrote:
I'm digging that kooky front spolier/valence thing going on there.


It is kooky. My buddy noticed yesterday that this car has black mud flaps on the rear that join into a black rear valence. He was thinking that was a special option. Anyway that rear treatment kinda matches the front after market spoiler. It's seriously UV damaged and has a crack just off center. I plan on pulling it just to make sure there's not junk and corrosion under it. If it comes off well and I can doctor it up with silicon, I might put it back on.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 1:00 pm    Post subject: Another step forward. Reply with quote

This evening I got some more fresh fuel into the car, pulled the supply line off the CIS unit and started cranking to bleed fuel. It didn't look too bad, some color. After bleeding about a gallon, I put the fuel lines back on and started it up. Idle came up pretty good and I sprayed the last 1/3 can of Sea Foam into the AFM. It settled right down to 850 RPM for about five minutes. Then, oddly, it started to idle at 1200 RPM when the cooling fans kicked in. So I looked at the gauges and it's got a little boost going on. Apparently the turbo just decided to wake up. Rev'ed it up and boost is coming up nicely and I can hear that little turbo wining. Sweet! I also started scrapping off what I thought would be one layer of window tint. Nope, try three layers. The bottom layer is going to be very difficult to remove off those defroster lines on the rear hatch. And I started treating all the window seals, door seals, exterior mirror surrounds, etc with armour-all. All that rubber needs gobs of silicone to soften up.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15511
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Han Solo wrote:
I'm conflicted on the color. The options say black but is it?

What options? Do you have the paint code? It looks like Meteor Grey Metallic LY7Z to me, which is sort of a charcoal color, not quite black.

According to this thread, there was no plain jane black offered in 1982. There was Mocha black LM9V, which is actually like a very dark chocolate brown (this is the color of SPIKE and WOODY). And there was Meteor grey metallic LY7Z (very close to the same code as the previous year's Dolomite Grey Metallic LY7V, the color the Club Sport was before respray...see orig pix here). There was a Black metallic LM9V offered in 1981-82. So maybe it's that.

The standard Black (non-metallic) L041 was available on the early cars and reintroduced with the 924S, but apparently not an option for the 931.
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15 981 GTS | 88 924S SE | 82 931 Holbert | 82 931 Rallye | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod Replica | 78 w/D-Prod kit | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Han Solo wrote:
I'm conflicted on the color. The options say black but is it?

What options? Do you have the paint code? It looks like Meteor Grey Metallic LY7Z to me, which is sort of a charcoal color, not quite black.

According to this thread, there was no plain jane black offered in 1982. There was Mocha black LM9V, which is actually like a very dark chocolate brown (this is the color of SPIKE and WOODY). And there was Meteor grey metallic LY7Z (very close to the same code as the previous year's Dolomite Grey Metallic LY7V, the color the Club Sport was before respray...see orig pix here). There was a Black metallic LM9V offered in 1981-82. So maybe it's that.

The standard Black (non-metallic) L041 was available on the early cars and reintroduced with the 924S, but apparently not an option for the 931.


I could have mis-read the color option as LM9Y which was actually LM9V. I think it's probably the Mocha Black severely faded. I'll double check the code in the morning.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 2:28 pm    Post subject: And two steps back Reply with quote

That's the way it is with these neglected cars.

I had a fuel leak start a couple of days ago and tonight I got a closer look. It's leaking at the bottom of the tank below the in-tank pump. I'm not sure if it's because corrosion, a small crack or pin hole. It does look like that area has taken a hit or two. Anyway, I'm going to let the remained of gas leak into the catch pan, then get that area all cleaned up. Right now I'm thinking either JB Weld or fiberglass, maybe both.

Then I moved into the engine compartment and removed a water injection module off the drivers side inner fender. I had previously found the remains of the water injection tank in the right side bottom of the rear trunk (completely shattered). I'll take my time tracing back the wiring harness on the system so I don't rip into something OEM. I also started to pull the AOS for cleaning but on closer inspection noticed it was a Purolator so that's been changed at some point. The hose leading to the air filter was dry also so I left that alone for now.

To finish off the evening I removed that silly air damn and I'm glad I did. The upper portion covering the side markers (those have been removed) had metal stays along the tops and were starting to corrode. That's just a bad trap for road junk, salt and moisture so I chucked it.










_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:43 pm    Post subject: Re: And two steps back Reply with quote

Han Solo wrote:
Right now I'm thinking either JB Weld or fiberglass, maybe both.


Fiberglass is a bad idea & jb weld is not a particularly good one. Either weld it or have it welded. Depending on if the bottom is rotted out, you may have to replace the bottom if not the whole tank.
Have the tank coated & it will outlive the rest of the car.

I like the Andial decal, perhaps they supplied the water injection. I was talking to one of the guys at Andial not long before they shut down, he was saying how much he liked the 931.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15511
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 10:41 pm    Post subject: Re: And two steps back Reply with quote

Han Solo wrote:
I had a fuel leak start a couple of days ago and tonight I got a closer look. It's leaking at the bottom of the tank below the in-tank pump.

First thing to check here is the seal for the in-tank pump. I'd bet a dollar to a donut that you can twist the pump by hand. The seal has probably disintegrated into dust. Part number 928-201-187-02 and readily available. I'd recommend taking the fuel line off at the inlet to the external pump. Drain all of the old gasoline (put in container for your lawnmower). Carefully remove the internal pump. Clean it / blow it out with an air compressor. Replace seal. Replace internal pump. Replace fuel line. Replace external fuel pump with a Walbro GCL604-1. If the old external pump is actually working, keep it on the shelf for a spare.

I have an extra seal and Walbro on the shelf if you're interested.
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15 981 GTS | 88 924S SE | 82 931 Holbert | 82 931 Rallye | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod Replica | 78 w/D-Prod kit | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 11:41 pm    Post subject: Re: And two steps back Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
Han Solo wrote:
Right now I'm thinking either JB Weld or fiberglass, maybe both.


Fiberglass is a bad idea & jb weld is not a particularly good one. Either weld it or have it welded. Depending on if the bottom is rotted out, you may have to replace the bottom if not the whole tank.
Have the tank coated & it will outlive the rest of the car.

I like the Andial decal, perhaps they supplied the water injection. I was talking to one of the guys at Andial not long before they shut down, he was saying how much he liked the 931.


Yeah, I was thinking about patching that lower section of the tank but I'm not sure my skills are quite up to that yet and then there's the fuel explosion factor. Sealing the tank obviously would be best. Does the trans-axle have to come out to drop the tank?

The paper work on the water injection came with the car, so getting to the root of the harness shouldn't be a problem.
_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html


Last edited by Han Solo on Thu Jul 23, 2015 11:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 11:45 pm    Post subject: Re: And two steps back Reply with quote

ideola wrote:

First thing to check here is the seal for the in-tank pump. I'd bet a dollar to a donut that you can twist the pump by hand. The seal has probably disintegrated into dust. Part number 928-201-187-02 and readily available. I'd recommend taking the fuel line off at the inlet to the external pump. Drain all of the old gasoline (put in container for your lawnmower). Carefully remove the internal pump. Clean it / blow it out with an air compressor. Replace seal. Replace internal pump. Replace fuel line. Replace external fuel pump with a Walbro GCL604-1. If the old external pump is actually working, keep it on the shelf for a spare.

I have an extra seal and Walbro on the shelf if you're interested.


I looked really close and it's definitely dripping from a very small crack or pin hole. But pulling the internal pump, cleaning and re-installing is definitely a good idea. I'll shoot you an email regarding those parts.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:58 am    Post subject: Re: And two steps back Reply with quote

Han Solo wrote:
Yeah, I was thinking about patching that lower section of the tank but I'm not sure my skills are quite up to that yet and then there's the fuel explosion factor. Does the trans-axle have to come out to drop the tank?


There's a trick to welding gas tanks to remove the "explosion factor" but if you're not confident in your welding skills, you should take it somewhere.

Yes the trans has to come out. You'll have to remove the vent hoses and disconnect the rubber hose to the filler neck from the tank.

HanSolo wrote:
The paper work on the water injection came with the car, so getting to the root of the harness shouldn't be a problem.


I was just referring to the injection in relation to the Andial sticker. If you're not familiar with Andial, they were a first class Porsche race shop. So much so, when they all retired, Porsche bought the rights to the Andial name. I'd be happy if I found out they worked on my car, you know its done right.
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 2:00 am    Post subject: Crappy tank Reply with quote

I identified about 5 pin holes in the bottom "sump" of the fuel tank. Internal corrosion. Pulled the internal pump and it's toast. It's been repair once with soldered leads and one broken. I sprayed a can of brake cleaner in the opening of the tank one blast at a time, followed by shop towels in there to soak up the junk. Then I sanded the bottom surface, cleaned well and applied a thick coat of JB Weld. This is a temporary fix for testing in the garage. I figure that sometime in the future I'll have to drop the transmission for a clutch job and I'll drop the tank at that time. I also scraped out up all the body filler in the battery tray. I'll have to drop the AC unit to do a proper sheet metal patch so I'll put that on the back burner for now as I don't like leaving those AC lines open.
_________________
-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1561
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 2:34 am    Post subject: Re: Crappy tank Reply with quote

Han Solo wrote:
Pulled the internal pump and it's toast. It's been repair once with soldered leads and one broken.

I also scraped out up all the body filler in the battery tray.


I JB welded my screen back onto my intank pump in its ring by very carefully filling the ring with JB and then sticking the screen in there, and JB welded the screens open end by filling a pill bottle cap with JB weld and sticking the end of the screen in there, a bit of heat took the cap back off and left a solid JB weld end..
I also had to have one of the leads on the pump motor resoldered.. It is working flawlessly..

You can scroll through the pics here to see my battery box rebuild, it may give you some ideas..
http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=39915&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I still have this template that worked perfectly...

I could copy it and mail it to you to save you that whole step, it goes all the way from up the left side by the heater to the outer fender wall under the side box/channel with the 3 plugs to replace its floor too, the curvy edge goes all along the firewall to the inner fender and all the way back the inner fender under the side channel..

I added lips along it's firewall/inner fender side for attachment, cut the lip along the dotted line with the firewall side bent up and the fender side bent down..


I hammered the lips and all of its shape out on a piece of railroad track..
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 2:51 am    Post subject: Re: Crappy tank Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
Han Solo wrote:
Pulled the internal pump and it's toast. It's been repair once with soldered leads and one broken.

I also scraped out up all the body filler in the battery tray.


I JB welded my screen back onto my intank pump in its ring by very carefully filling the ring with JB and then sticking the screen in there, and JB welded the screens open end by filling a pill bottle cap with JB weld and sticking the end of the screen in there, a bit of heat took the cap back off and left a solid JB weld end..
I also had to have one of the leads on the pump motor resoldered.. It is working flawlessly..

You can scroll through the pics here to see my battery box rebuild, it may give you some ideas..
http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=39915&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I still have this template that worked perfectly...

I could copy it and mail it to you to save you that whole step, it goes all the way from up the left side by the heater to the outer fender wall under the side box/channel with the 3 plugs (to replace its floor too)..


I tried connecting 12V directly to the terminals on the pump itself. No dice. That's an interesting fix on your battery box. I think I'll weld a patch in though. I've got A LOT of body welding experience having made a race car out of a rusty 914. Also, the rust on this 931 isn't as bad as yours was. I'm thinking a 6" x 6" patch will find good metal.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1561
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess I could have gone with a cleaner approach than all the bolts but I didn't want to weld because..
1. I didn't want to do that much breath holding welding galv.
2. I didnt want to destroy the OEM galv all along my welds.
3. My welder is a lowly flux core and my welding skills aren't much better.

If you think you can get away with just a little 6x6 patch you may not need to pull all of the dash and AC like I did either, I probably didn't need to pull the dash anyway really but my interior sure went back in nice after super cleaning..
You may be able to just cover underneath with a leather cloth or something to catch spatter and zap it up from the top.. I don't see why you couldnt just drop the AC box and leave it connected to its lines. Ppsht, you prolly know way more about bodywork than me anyway, do it up buddy
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Han Solo  



Joined: 11 Jul 2015
Posts: 238
Location: Lebanon TN

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
I guess I could have gone with a cleaner approach than all the bolts but I didn't want to weld because..
1. I didn't want to do that much breath holding welding galv.
2. I didnt want to destroy the OEM galv all along my welds.
3. My welder is a lowly flux core and my welding skills aren't much better.

If you think you can get away with just a little 6x6 patch you may not need to pull all of the dash and AC like I did either, I probably didn't need to pull the dash anyway really but my interior sure went back in nice after super cleaning..
You may be able to just cover underneath with a leather cloth or something to catch spatter and zap it up from the top.. I don't see why you couldnt just drop the AC box and leave it connected to its lines. Ppsht, you prolly know way more about bodywork than me anyway, do it up buddy


Thanks for the reminder about the fumes. I use a $99 flux core welder and it ain't pretty but gets the job done. Good idea on just dropping down the AC unit. I'll really just need enough room to get a body saw to straighten things out and some room for welding heat.
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-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html
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