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Intercooler or bust..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 2:06 pm    Post subject: Re: good on ya mate! Reply with quote

canyonblaster wrote:
I want!!


How much of it do you want?

IC and charge air plumbing?
Turbo? (that makes it possible)
BOV and install accessories/plumbing?
Rad spacing and mounting solutions?
Boost gauge/MBC plumbing, adaptors, dash face plate? (in progress) http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=41329&highlight=
Porting, bending, cutting, grinding, filing, drilling, adjusting, persuading, bleeding, installing? (hard work)

Though it is somewhat all or nothing..

I'm not done yet but what is done works and works well.. I'll make you whatever you want for the cost of your choice of pieces, shipping, expenses, + $20 an hour for whatever it takes..
Like everything it will be much quicker and easier the 2nd time and will come out cleaner. Also copying is much easier than trial/error engineering..

It probably took me 100 hours + to do this, it may only take 10-15 (more or less idk) to copy it..

Still have no idea if it'll work with AC..

On a side note I washed the car today a bit and may take some beauty pics tomorrow, ran out of daylight to take pics today, people always showing up stopping my Porsche progress...
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kenodog wrote:
idle droop when you take your foot off the gas.



When starting it it will fire to about 1.2k then fall to about 500 for a sec or so before coming back just under 1k and remaining steady.. This may be a function of the longer intake like idle droop you mention.. It starts in 2 cranks, I'm not complaining..

I had a problem with lingering revs dropping the throttle but improving the BOV efficiency remedied this..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Vac/Boost line, gauge, and top port MBC setup so far...

The end with the 90 goes under the intake manifold to the big old BOV vac signal line..

The valve on it isn't necessary but it will be handy so I can install it before I get the rest of the in car pieces, it may also be handy if I let someone drive the car so I can just reach under the manni and turn the boost increase and gauge off and they'll never find it..

And the valve is the only thing I have to make the fittings work right so there it is, on it goes, made in Italy

For the in car part I have a gauge lined up and a male/male check valve in the mail to go between the gauge and regulator so the regulator/WG never see vacuum, only boost, but the gauge will get the vacuum..

The HD is closed today so I sacrificed a piece of one of my air compressor lines and it gives me a cool barbless end for under the intake mani.. I'm running out of hoses, fittings, clamps, and randoms laying around..

Sorry for the terrible pic but I wanted to show the vac line hookup with valve before it disappears forever under the intake, you believe that was an iphone 5C? Unimpressed..

INSTALLED.... That worked great and I can reach the valve just behind the alt..

Satisfied...

BTW the top WG port line is the OEM small AC line flipped over the other side of the bellhousing to the WG.. Pulled the larger AC line out of the firewall and that's where more stuff is going to go including this vac/boost line...
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote











It took about 20 feet of wrap incase your wondering.. I'm going to look into that clear silicone sealer spray stuff for header wrap because this thing is F'n itchy bare..

Looks gorgeous tho don't it?

I will also be doing the lower charge tube after I modify it, and possibly the exhaust manifold too..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my boost gauge in/on temporarily until I come up with a good idea to make it all pretty.. It all needs redesigned..

But my air regulator seems to be malfunctioning..
First I turned the cap all the way in and went for a short spin, boost wants to build uncontrollably, getting 10+ psi just over 3k and I have to drop the throttle..
Then I tried it with the cap all the way out, no change at all..

Good news is I'm getting 10 psi boost @ 3k rpm easy with all my piping, and thats on a luke warm engine, bad news is it doesn't stop there..

Going to tinker..
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Last edited by Fasteddie313 on Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:28 am; edited 1 time in total
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fixed it, the cap needs to be toward the out position to not change boost, I had to pull the piston thing out with pliers and start back from the top because the top WG pressure wasn't enough to push the piston back up from all the way down..

With the boost turned all the way down I'm getting just under 7 psi right at the back of the #1 intake valve on the old BOV vac port...
If I step on it at low rpm I can hear that intake valve's pressure reverberation at my boost controller, sounds like a single cylinder engine, but the boost/vac gauge is steady and doesn't flicker.. Or maybe that valve noise I hear is coming from my check valve, its that or the regulator vibrating with the intake valve I'm pretty sure..

I will be leaving the boost all the way down as I still have a couple things to do first.. Like redo my post TB vac port for my BOV and distributor, and set my timing completely perfect..

I hit 12-14 psi ish @ about 32-3300 rpm a couple times testing today before I backed off and it felt like I could run there just fine, it felt safe and it did not complain at all..
The turbo makes a whole new noise like that, and it is good
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have this little air regulator I'm attempting to use to control a top port MBC setup.. It looks like this..


Under the cap that screws down there is a spring and the spring pushes on a piston like thing with an O-ring around its perimeter that seals to the cylinder walls and the piston also has like a needle valve on the end of it..

First tests with its heavy spring the boost can't be turned down far enough, or at all, IDK, I'm not trying to test anything at 1bar+.

Tests with lighter springs the boost can be turned down if you start with the piston just barely in but the little piston in it pops up and cocks sideways sometimes resulting in loss of top port pressure and boost drop.

More tests with the O-ring removed from its piston are proving fruitful, its that if it has its O-ring on, the top port pressure I want isn't enough to lift the piston due to the resistance of the O-ring..

The lowest I was able to get it to set with the O-ring with a light spring and almost 0 spring pressure was 12-13psi, I took some pulls like that and WOW, but alas the piston eventually popped out and cocked sideways eliminating top port pressure..
One pull I took in 1st rolling start (no clutching) from 1k rpm at 12-13psi WOT on new black clean pavement my rears broke loose around 4k rpm and I instantly bounced off the rev limiter, with a passenger, oops, darn all season tires, but it didn't explode or complain at all.
I did manage a couple pulls up the hill at 12-13psi before the piston popped out again and I didn't hear any knocking/pinging or any bad noises, it pulled like a monster and it sounded very very happy..

Right now I have it with 2 springs cranked all the way down, no O-ring, and it holds me solid at about 9psi this way, man it runs good..

For those of you, like ideola, with a regulator MBC in cabin, is the regulator supposed to "hiss" air out on boost while its controlling pressure?
Mine does this with or without an O-ring and I just want to know if this is normal..

I don't like this regulator, it won't panel mount anyway, I'm going to just leave it at 9psi where it is until I find a better one, Imma go to the junkyard and see if I can't find an old school cool metal regulator with potential that will panel mount for me..

The arrow on the regulator points to the WG, its side hole is plugged, it goes manifold-boost/vac gauge on T-check valve-air regulator-top WG..

How about that hissing? Is that normal/OK?
Looks like a little boost leak that would put me a touch rich, it can't leak vac because there is a check valve before it that works perfect..

I'm running 4.05 bar control pressure and 7 bar system pressure which should make me richer if anything and raise max fueling limits.. No my injectors arent popping off at airplate rest, and I have a cool new underhood switch to jump the FP relay circuit because I'm lazy like that.

My intake is cold to the touch directly after WOT runs, all of it post-IC, actually the faster I test it the colder it is, sitting idling or after shutdown the intake heat soaks a bit and warms up especially the lower charge tube, not so much the upper charge tube, the upper doesnt really noticeably heatsoak, the TB and manifold heatsoak a bit more than the upper charge tube but less than the lower charge tube..
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldn't be leaking air, remember all air in cis is metered after the dissy...
You would be running boost only reference to the top port, what your essentially doing is adding air to keep the wastegate closed longer, you only need the tiniest amount cracked open to do this, I was using 1/4" hose fittings
So you could use your stiffest spring and possibly a restrictor to get the most acurate range off your air reg
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found an awesome regulator in my closet!!
It was 3,000 psi in and 60 psi out gauges, it says its for CO2 systems, it has left hand threads on the IN sides, its the kind with just a bolt out the top and is very nice solid brass, made in USA.
Best of all it is awesome at finely adjusting small pressures, about 1 full turn on the bolt per psi boost increase and very predictable/repeatable..
I have it set up so sweet, I have the regulators adjustment bolt right through the middle of my faceplate right in the middle of the bend with the locknut on top, and my boost gauge on its left, room for another gauge on the right and many switches if I want. I'll get pics tomorrow or something, I think it turned out awesome..

Works awesome, looks awesome, set at 13psi..

Today I was about 3500 rpm in 3rd around a left hand corner at about max cornering speed, perfect blacktop, I stomped it coming through the apex and when the boost came on the tail wiggled out a bit, I let off a bit and squiggled out of the corner, it was awesome..
I think thats the first time I hit that corner hard at higher boost and the extra power is definitely enough where I have to ease on a bit more than before or the rear wants to go, sure have to get on the brakes more before the next corners.
A full rpm pull in 2nd is WOW seat sucking, a pull in 1st from a rolling start (no clutch slipping) will sometimes break my rear end loose at about 4500 rpm and have me bouncing off the rev limiter so I can't just WOT it in 1st, pulls in all gears like a monster, gets to 100 mph like NOW, fastest car I have ever driven (which isn't saying much)..

I need better tires, mine are like 90% but all season, just not sticky enough..

I am satisfied enough at 13psi for now until I get ahold of a wideband, I think it could go quite a bit more but I don't want to get greedy

My intake is cold, I'm running cool on the temp gauge (just below 1/4 mark) no matter how hard I thrash it, I think it runs cooler now at 13psi than it did before the IC at OEM boost, it doesn't seem as hot as it used to under the hood after runs..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This needs to go here too..

My cold air intake, soon to be ram air..

2X 2.5" ID 90 degree hoses and 1 3" section of 2.5" OD pipe for a coupler.. Slice a little bit off your bottom airbox intake.. May even be able to run it with horns and an IC.. Pop up lights still work perfectly..
It doesn't get any easier than that, took me like 45 minutes with some good hose experiene under my belt

I'll build a ram scoop down there sometime, and I'm thinking a flap, like an inlaw for a tractor exhaust pipe I could flip down/slide/put on in the rain if rain proves to wet the air filter.. I'll test in the rain when it rains..

















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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boost gauge and MBC, bit more tweaking/bending to do on the plate but I like it a lot as is, I think I'll wait for the gauge on the right before I go mounting the plate..





Few engine shots just because..



See my little switch there on the intake, it jumps the fuel pumps circuit so I can play with my permanent tester whenever the hood is open..


Even finally got around to some rearmost exhaust hangers.. Had to grind the old ones off..



Ha! You can't see my crap welds... It was windy..
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would suggest 2.5" intake is to small, at least 3" imho is the right size...
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I think there is room for 3" to fit through there, I'll put that on the list for the next junkyard day..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1994
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took these a long time ago but have been too pussy to post them because I guess I'm a bit shy about the real me online..

IC system overview..
P1 https://youtu.be/X2jbkENELMk
P2 https://youtu.be/1wk3QW90cbM

Nice sound IMO..
https://youtu.be/yRDfcIopEVs

Pull from 2nd to the top of 4th and a little of 5th in the IC video state of tune..
https://youtu.be/REaoapuzrzY
Crap vid I know, doesn't look as fast as it feels..
Had a 250# guy with me recording in the rear passengers seat, actually helps a lot to keep from spinning in 2nd but I can also feel the difference..
And remember the silly tall 5th gear and 160mph speedo..
Look at the excuses flow.. How you like that 2nd syncro? he he


Tour of the junkyard in the subie..
https://youtu.be/x_L9dm8uH94
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8178
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That air intake is way too low...if you get into any kind of water your engine is scrap...+ as you can see you pick up all the dead stuff that will go to your filter really fast.
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