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Intercooler or bust..
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 2309
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pre TB gives boost only. Post give boost and vac. Former is recommended. Latter if you want to see vac on the boost gauge, but what is that info worth?

If increasing boost you also want to monitor your AFR and knock with quality devices. Or your motor will be akin to a grenade with a rusty pin. It will go bang, just a question of when
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carrera RSR wrote:
Pre TB gives boost only. Post give boost and vac. Former is recommended. Latter if you want to see vac on the boost gauge, but what is that info worth?
Boost vac gauge would be cooler
But the question is would boost/vac signal be ok for the top WG port MBC or would vac mess things up, if anything ill run 2 boost lines

If increasing boost you also want to monitor your AFR and knock with quality devices. Or your motor will be akin to a grenade with a rusty pin. It will go bang, just a question of when
I'm not going to spend hundreds of $$ for a wideband and knock monitor for CIS, may as well just buy VEMS..


It's going back together with a boost gauge and top port MBC, I'll keep it at stock boost while hammering out any bugs until I'm absolutely sure it's running as amazing as it was before with all my new charge piping and turbo etc before bumping it up a bit..

If it's running great and pops at 10psi so be it, CIS should easily be able to take care of itself at that level or there's something wrong/broken.

WHEN it pops I'll go non-interference with VW flat tops and O ring the block while its getting bored.. All engines "will go bang, just a question of when" at any level of tune..

I'm not refuting your advice, it is great advice, if you dont want to blow your engine absolutely monitor AFR and knock and EGT and IAT etc but I don't have the means to spend money on "for now" devices...

I was forced to fab a complete FMIC system because the OG dizzy-turbo boot ripped and I'm not wasting money on obsolete parts, just as a WBO2 and knock monitor are obsolete when I look at the big picture, as are the 931 S1 pistons and turbo and HG..

Seems I like working on the car as much as driving it anyway..

Everyone please feel free to point and laugh when I blow it up, which I probably will, before the next "stage" of replacing obsolete pieces.. Any bets on how long that takes?
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tee'd my vac/boost here, next to what I remember being the IAT sensor. I ran the hose through the firewall along the big bunch of wires in front of the driver side.



I think vacuum readings nifty but that's just me. Here's a vacuum diagnostics chart, and who the hell says "nifty" anymore?


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1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carrera RSR wrote:

If increasing boost you also want to monitor your AFR and knock with quality devices.


Sound advice. A few bucks up front can save you a lot later.
I think something like this is a fair way to check AFR and be able to datalog a few key parameters.
http://www.14point7.com/products/sigma-lambda-controller-pure-plus-2-1


Also, love this concept.
http://www.14point7.com/products/idash
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1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VEMS, just over twice the price of a decent WBO2 setup..

Vems Display dashboard on android

Sequential Control of up to 8 banks of injectors

Built in transistorised coil igniters for up to 8 coils

Built in Wideband controller

Turbo friendly features such as Exhaust Gas Temperature, Anti-lag, and boost
control

Configurable control of low and high current drivers for lights, relays and solenoids, including up to 4 solenoids for VVTI / VANOS / Camshaft-angle control (optional: 4 Hi-Side PFET drivers eg. for BMW S54)

Datalogging via serial connection or optional SD card interface

Advanced Idle Air Control

Throttle position

Coolant temperature

Air temperature

Crank and Cam sensors

Manifold Pressure through a choice of built-in pressure sensors, or an external
OEM type

External fuel and exhaust pressures

Integrated Wideband O2 Controller utilizing the low cost Bosch LSU4 sensor

Up to 2 Exhaust Gas Temperature sensors

Variable cam timing solenoids (VANOS, VTEC, VVT etc)

Nitrous solenoids

+++ ???

The thing would log and display on a simple tablet (no gauges$) real time everything I could imagine running CIS and be able to take over spark and fuel if/whenever I decided to ditch the CIS and go coil on plug or whatever..

Even save maps and swap the brain between unlimited cars/bikes/anything with an engine so I could run any/every machine I have with it but just 1 at a time.. And I could use it as an advanced diagnostic tool to watch anything on any car..

Starts at 496.4 euro, All the goodie options I could ever need shipped to me for $800 USD..

Dutchpug's 350 something HP 924 NA, raceboy's 300hp? NA 924, both on stock internals.. I think its proven..

Now how much does just WBO2 setup + a knock detector + a boost controller + gauges cost in comparison?

No brainer... I'll do without until I can afford the whole enchilada at a price that smears just monitoring CIS..

I could just sell off my perfectly functioning CIS components and other obsolete parts to fund it... I just don't want to take that big of a bite right now, I'm chewing with all my might allready..
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
VEMS, just over twice the price of a decent WBO2 setup..

Vems Display dashboard on android

Sequential Control of up to 8 banks of injectors

Built in transistorised coil igniters for up to 8 coils

Built in Wideband controller

Turbo friendly features such as Exhaust Gas Temperature, Anti-lag, and boost
control

Configurable control of low and high current drivers for lights, relays and solenoids, including up to 4 solenoids for VVTI / VANOS / Camshaft-angle control (optional: 4 Hi-Side PFET drivers eg. for BMW S54)

Datalogging via serial connection or optional SD card interface

Advanced Idle Air Control

Throttle position

Coolant temperature

Air temperature

Crank and Cam sensors

Manifold Pressure through a choice of built-in pressure sensors, or an external
OEM type

External fuel and exhaust pressures

Integrated Wideband O2 Controller utilizing the low cost Bosch LSU4 sensor

Up to 2 Exhaust Gas Temperature sensors

Variable cam timing solenoids (VANOS, VTEC, VVT etc)

Nitrous solenoids

+++ ???

The thing would log and display on a tablet real time everything I could imagine running CIS and be able to take over spark and fuel if/whenever I decided to ditch the CIS and go coil on plug or whatever..

Even save maps and swap the brain between unlimited cars/bikes/anything with an engine so I could run any/every machine I have with it just 1 at a time..

Starts at 496.4 euro, All the goodie options I could ever need shipped to me for $800 USD..

Dutchpug's 350 something HP 924 NA, raceboy's 300hp? NA 924, both on stock internals.. I think its proven..

Now how much does just WBO2 setup + a knock detector + a boost controller + gauges cost in comparison?

No brainer... I'll do without until I can afford the whole enchilada at a price that smears just monitoring CIS..


Funny. I can do most of that already with the MegaSquirt MS1 in my 924. Better with the MS2 I'm building for it.

http://www.msextra.com/product-range/traditional-megasquirt/megasquirt-2/

$279 for the MS2

$189 for the Innovate LC2 Wideband kit

$100 for the 10' wiring harness and various GM weatherpack connectors for the sensors/injectors.

$65 for Knocksense (though the 924 motor is so noisy due to the valve train that it can be difficult to make this work effectively)

$55 for the serial to bluetooth adapter to allow realtime monitoring via laptop/tablet/phone

$25 for the JBPerf Sequential injection driver board (sequential injection only possible on the MS2 with this board and MSExtra code base, but only helps smooth the idle really).

$7.50 for the boost control kit (controls a solenoid that you connect into the wastegate line).

Control the stock ignition via MegaSquirt or via the original ignition box or step up to whatever form of distributorless ignition you'd like (I'm using Ford's EDIS, but there are also GM LS coils, etc.)

$720.50 for the MS2 pretty much ready to assemble into the car minus the injectors, fuel system, solenoids and sensors which you'd have to source yourself anyway. If you shop around you could probably drop the price a bit as well.

Plus with MegaSquirt you'd have a large resource base here and a simply huge one spread across the world if you need help or are looking for specific feature additions, etc. Thanks to the relatively open nature of the software and hardware, Megasquirt can be configured to control transmissions, ignition, fuel, nitrous, boost, knock, variable valve solutions (VTEC/VVT, etc.)

If you want even more capability that you couldn't easily apply to the 2.0L turbo motor in the 924, you could step up to the MS3:

http://www.msextra.com/product-range/traditional-megasquirt/megasquirt-3/
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1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MS scares me.. Complex, too DIY, soldering boards, I can't code or understand code, you have to understand why/how it does what it does in order to get it to do what you want it to do, multiple systems, etc..

VEMS, one box of black magic that does everything by clicking buttons not requiring me to understand a great deal of computer functions and coding..

How would you go about unplugging your MS from your Porsche and plugging it into your turbo eg33 subaru tuned ready to go for either? Then to a Triumph speed triple?

I want EASY and VALUE..
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
MS scares me.. Complex, too DIY, soldering boards, I can't code or understand code, you have to understand why/how it does what it does in order to get it to do what you want it to do, multiple systems, etc..

VEMS, one box of black magic that does everything by clicking buttons not requiring me to understand a great deal of computer functions and coding..

How would you go about unplugging your MS from your Porsche and plugging it into your turbo eg33 subaru tuned ready to go for either? Then to a Triumph speed triple?

I want EASY and VALUE..


Uh, the connectors and wiring are standardized for the MegaSquirt, so if you have two cars configured for MS, you should be able to swap the ECU's if needed. That said, you shouldn't need to swap the ECU's. Each car will need its own anyway and each will be configured differently. You can swap configuration files among the MS units pretty easily and people share them online all the time.

If you have a problem with the ECU there are simulators that you can use on your bench to send it controlled signals so you can verify the ECU is working. 90% of the time its a wiring issue in the car anyway and both systems would suffer from that issue.

You do realize that the work to install EFI is pretty much the same between the two, right? That's not counting getting it running. Both are very similar for tuning and initial start and it is a PITA.

You can't just plug VEMS, MS, AEM, etc. into a 924 and expect it to work. You have to add all of the wiring for the sensors, injectors, power and ground for the ECU, ignition/tach signal, oxygen sensor, etc. That's not counting on the mounting of the sensors on the engine as well as the changes to the fuel system, the fuel rail, injectors, regulator, fittings and hose, etc.

You also have to setup the startup settings for the fuel to get it to start along with the settings to keep it running, etc. You can download other people's tune files if you want to try and shortcut it, but unless you're using the exact same injectors, fuel pressure and engine configuration you'll have to roll your own in either case.

Oh and you can buy MegaSquirt pre-assembled and configured hardware wise the way you want from DIYAutoTune

Even though I work in IT, I've never had to look at any code or do anything more than plug my laptop into the ECU via the serial cable and load up TunerStudio and configure the settings based on the online guides and my choice of fuel and ignition components. Again pretty much the same as VEMS.

To each their own.
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1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant running multiple cars/engines with the same ECU so I only have to buy one..

Maybe MS is easier than I think, you should know much better than I..
Wiring sensors and all that sounds like cake, I'm not scared of that, circuit boards are scary..

You recommend MS over VEMS for a first time standalone tuner/installer?
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
I meant running multiple cars/engines with the same ECU so I only have to buy one..


That is quite possibly one of the more silly ideas I've seen on your various threads around here. Seriously, don't do that. It won't work as well as you think it would.

Fasteddie313 wrote:

Maybe MS is easier than I think, you should know much better than I..
Wiring sensors and all that sounds like cake, I'm not scared of that, circuit boards are scary..

You recommend MS over VEMS for a first time standalone tuner/installer?


You don't need to touch circuit boards, unless you want to. For a basic EFI conversion it isn't needed, especially if you buy the board preconfigured from a reputable dealer.

I don't have any direct experience with VEMS, just MegaSquirt and I can say that the biggest pieces of advice I can give are this:

Make sure you're patient enough to understand and follow "The Scientific Method" and apply it to engine tuning. If you can't or won't, then I'd not start down this road, you'll get frustrated easily.

Luckily there's lots of documentation available for EFI troubleshooting and tuning in general as the basic theory is the same across the board between all of the various EFI solutions on the market.
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1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fiat22turbo wrote:


That is quite possibly one of the more silly ideas I've seen on your various threads around here.


Thanks, Glad you thought most of my other crazy ideas were that good..

I'm going to have to do some searching to find out why I couldn't unplug an all in one ECU from 1st car, plug it into a 2nd car, load the pretuned map/config for that car, start and go..

Do any MS ECU's have built in integrated EGT and WBO2? Doesn't look like it..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IC finally on the way.. ETA Thu, Jun 25..

Sold a couple hundred bucks worth of my Bitcoin day trading profits (+13000% gain ) for Porsche pieces, I just can't wait any longer.. Can only spend it on Ebay tho..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel that the tiny nipple on my S1 TB for boost/vac signal is overtaxed and I don't want to add even more volume requirements to it..

I am going to be connecting under the manifold to the original BOV/pop off valve vacuum signal nipple for my boost/vac signal as this port is nice and big and the closest to the intake valves giving me the truest boost/vac readings..
I'll adapt it down to 3/8 line or so and run it into the cabin to the dash speaker port..
I have my WG top port line sorted, using the original smaller AC hose that comes into the cabin, I pulled it up from the drivers side firewall and put it back down the passengers side over the bellhousing right to the WG, the metal end in the car comes into the passengers side of the dash speaker area and I'll couple to that with a hose..

I'm only going to run one boost/vac signal line from under the manifold and its going to go like this...

Manifold-line-boost/vac gauge-check valve-regulator-gauge-WG

I'm putting a check valve after the boost vac gauge before the regulator so the regulator and WG top port never see vacuum but get the boost signal and its held there.
I believe this will also keep pressure to the top port at the set regulated level while the engine is showing vacuum helping hold the WG closed while gaining boost again between shifts.

I also want to run a 0-15 psi gauge on the WG side of the regulator just to see whats going on there, I expect to see WG top port gauge pressure + .45 bar spring = what the WG bottom port has to overcome to open the WG. IDK, we shall see how it works in practice rather than theory.

I'll be running with nothing to the WG top port for a while until my tuning and modifications are proven before I touch on boost control..

A local speed shop specializing in carbureted chevy engines I think has a portable exhaust AFR sniffer and I think they'll be happy to take some runs with me as they seem quite interested in my car..
I can't wait to pull in there with my big FMIC and straight pipe SSsweeeeww turbo whistle to do some AFR testing/tuning, I'll be so proud..

There's a neat curvy hillclimb just a mile away from my house and I had a friend in a camaro following me (well trying) going up and he said all he could hear was turbo. He has v6 5 speed and had no chance keeping up with me up the hill WOT on just stock S1 boost with no IC and S2 turbo.. Yes I flogged it a lot before all this IC shenanigans and it proved itself..
Now with S1 turbo, IC, and maybe a bit more boost I think even a V8 camaro will be easily embarrassed but I have a lot of work yet to do, waiting on pieces..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HAPPY CHRISTMAN BIRTHDAY NEWYEARS HALLOWEEN TO ME!!!!!!

IC HAS ARRIVED!!!!
2 days early..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Yup I tweaked some fins... I'll go back and straighten em out later the best I can.. See how its face is almost flush with the lower valance, its actually pulled down to it quite a bit tightening it onto its mount from the bottom..


You can tell that hood stays up a bit eh? look at the dust difference, lol..




All looks original under the hood except the BOV, yes the pop up lights and washer bottle and everything remain untouched...






Bunch of crowded pipes, see the turbo tag, also the connection to the bottom of the lower charge pipe..




Very crowded area there infront of the turbo compressor, lot going on thats for sure.. I need to customize that lower RAD hose a bit, moving the rad back made it kink a bit, its OK but I'll pull it and shorten it eventually, maybe flat out replace....




RAD spacer/IC mount/oil cooler mount turned out awesome.. Probably won't weld it up, wouldnt want to mess it up..


I need to shorten one of those pipe 90's there so the pipe across the steering rack isn't pushed down low like it is, where that couple with the crooed hose clamp is, that middle hose clamp actually is a mount and its crooked to pull forward a bit because it needs shortened inside that coupler..








leadfoot wrote:
most intrusive aspect of that area is the tow point brace....


I did have to notch the tow pint boxing but only just behind the bent rod part.. I just took the valance off, sawzall sliced it straight toward the chassis rail just behind the rod part, actually took like 1/4" of the end of the rod off too..

Yeah anyway sliced it and then carefully folded the rearmost interfering portion of it up and to the chassis rail with a BFH.. Very carefully (not to hit the RAD) and not really that big of hammer, 22oz estwing carpenters to be precise..

It sat in there fine to the driver's side a bit because of the tow hook and everyone was saying just to leave it to one side like that, no one will ever notice they said, not worth it, NOPE cant have crooked stuff, its nice and straight..


Yup, very satisfied..


Feast your eyes on that there...

Impressions on the IC itself..
Sure aint from USA...
Smells terrible of rubber and who knows what, I would hate to work in a place that smells like that..
The unexpected bolts and brackets it shipped with were floating around in the box, a few fins were bent a bit on arrival probably from them..
The welds are not constant beads, they are multiple overlapping tacks like steel tank wanted me to do on the tank feet, stupid for inexperienced welders idiot proof method..
Also I notice a couple places where the weld tacks are cheese holed like bubbles, trying to skimp on shielding gas or welding in the wind do this.. It does not cause a leak, but I noticed..
All the mounting lug things on it are threaded and then have helicoils in them.. The first one I noticed I thaught it was a fixed mistake but they are all like that, even the 2 identical separate lugs that came with it are like that with a helicoil..
It is surprisingly heavy, I don't know what I should expect but its heft surprised me.. Guess 10 lbs?

Exactly what I expected for cheap, it will do very nicely

I have to put the WG, J-pipe, exhaust all back together before I can run it, I tryed starting it with no exhaust (I've done it before) but the battery was flat (click) probably from leaving the key on so I can turn the wheels by the wheel from under, and playing with the CIS testor, it hasn't actually ran in weeks.. And change the oil/filter..

This was a lot lot of work..
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