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Intercooler or bust..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:48 am    Post subject: Intercooler or bust.. Reply with quote

Right now it's going to cost me money to put it back together either way so I may as well put money towards an upgrade rather than parts I'd like to make obsolete..

What I think is a good idea, to grind this seemingly useless ear off the engine block and grind down the length of the bolt tube on the steering rack allowing me to install a shorter bolt to reduce its protrusion, I'd like an opinion on..

Is there any reason I shouldn't attack this ear/lobe thing sticking out of the block with my angle grinder?

[/img]



I mean that seemingly extra trapezoidal hunk of cast iron sticking out of the block where it meets the oil pan, I can just turn it into sparks with no ill effects correct? Unless it has some deceiving purpose it sure would be nice to get it out of my way..

I like pics, chances are you do too..










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Last edited by Fasteddie313 on Sat Oct 10, 2015 1:46 am; edited 8 times in total
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no reason you can't notch it, I wouldn't unless its 100% necessary- I try to be as less invasive as possible. It looks like you could turns the housing a bit more or make a an "s" adaptor to clear everything.
That tab is there to provide a place to pry the oil pan off & its bigger than it needs to be.

I don't see a problem with cutting back the steering rack mount either as long as you can retain strength in the mount & hold it down properly.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8170
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could turn the compressor so that the air exits on the passanger side and make your tubing trough there..avoid cutting your fingers with the grinder under the car trying to grind off material off the engine block.

What turbo is that?
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morghen that installed turbo is a 931 s2 6022 turbo, I will have to switch out to the S1 6407 turbo (witch I have btw) for the bigger compressor to match the 6411 audi compressor housing and may try the audi 6411 watercooled bearing housing.. But the audi comp housing sits on the S2 6022 turbo just fine (smaller wheel tho, same backing plate) for me to mock everything up..

I imagine running a 951 compressor setup would be very similar to what I have got going on here, Jason C told me the inlet/outlet on 951 housings are 2" just like this audi housing. I should easily be able to switch to a bigger 951 compressor setup from this with the same plumbing if I ever feel the need for something bigger than the S1 compressor, I think I'll run out of fueling before I run out of turbo with the S1 but IDK..

Went to the junkyard for a few hours today... Total cost $20 for everything in the pics..







Some VW door handles (inner and outer) that look very familiar..
Bumper jack..
Water pump rigging out of a school bus for the heater system, pump doesnt run .. But with a Ton of T's and fittings and brass valves and hoseclamps etc. That crap adds up quick if your trying to buy it, handy to have around..
Most of the metal pipes in 2" and 2.5" are from rear engined school busses there rad lines, one was even "9-11" but I didnt have a camera..
A lot of those big hoses that look like pairs are ford truck intakes..

This should give me a decent start..
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Last edited by Fasteddie313 on Wed Jun 03, 2015 1:18 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
It looks like you could turns the housing a bit more or make a an "s" adaptor to clear everything.


The problem is the oil lines to the oil cooler.. I already massaged them for 2 hours and filed the blue nameplate area on the comp housing trying to get as much clearance as I can, scared to break the oil lines also.. It would be nice to make oil lines that go somewhere else but that sounds like $$$..

Are the cooler lines under pressure? How much? Is there a reason for the expensive hydraulic style lines there other than overkill durability?
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

are oil cooler lines under pressure?

Ever looked at your oil pressure gauge?

Yeah, that's the pressure they run under.

As long as the hose and fittings are rated for the fluid type, pressure and heat ranges it should work just fine and it isn't a bad idea to ensure they aren't leaking or damaged if you expect to put many miles on the car.

I just paid about $200 to have a set of custom hoses made for my 951S (it has an aftermarket oil cooler on it). Money well spent when you consider the cost of an engine rebuild. Much more so for the 2.0 since more parts are NLA for it than the 2.5.

Keep in mind that if you add an intercooler to your car, you have to be very, very careful of leaks in the piping and hoses or you could very easily throw the fueling for the motor out the window along with your pistons.
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1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like if you clocked the turbo you'd have more space...
I have previously welded steel 10AN bungs onto the oil cooler fittings by cutting off the old hoses and had aluminum bungs welded directly onto the cooler...
If you go the steel route, the block adapter could probably take metric to an adapters and make up some braided lines to suit...
Steel bungs are around $7 each.. and braided hose is fairly cheap... just don't skimp on the fittings...
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow this is going well but I ran out of daylight..
I found a rout out of the bottom of the rad area, over the oil cooler (needs lowered 1"), inside the frame rail, under the dizzy, over the comp housing, right back to the OEM lower charge pipe...

But I don't like how restrictive the lower charge pipe is after running 2.5" all the way up to it.. I'll probably grind it out but there is not much meat on it, maybe in the future the outside of it could be fill welded so I can grind it out some more..

The challenge is going to be the dizzy to the turbo intake, its 2.5" to 2", a crazy multibend, and needs a 1" Tee take off to plumb back the blow off valve..
I think I have the 2 rubbers figured out, and that I need to make a metal pipe 2.5" to 2" 45 with a 1" nipple, zap zap, don't think you can buy one of those..

I have this BOV

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Plumb-Back-Blow-Off-Valve-25mm-BLACK-/131524976451?hash=item1e9f7fdf43&vxp=mtr

(had to kill pic, it stretched the page and thats annoying)

I'm sad to loose the awesome 931 bov, that thing is a beast..
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Last edited by Fasteddie313 on Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

leadfoot wrote:
looks like if you clocked the turbo you'd have more space...
I have previously welded steel 10AN bungs onto the oil cooler fittings by cutting off the old hoses and had aluminum bungs welded directly onto the cooler...
If you go the steel route, the block adapter could probably take metric to an adapters and make up some braided lines to suit...
Steel bungs are around $7 each.. and braided hose is fairly cheap... just don't skimp on the fittings...


I was easily able to "S" directly off of the compressor housing just as Jason C recommended, didn't have to grind a thing (besides the comp housing raised nameplate). Jason is tha man..
The OEM cooler lines are going to stay for now..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fiat22turbo wrote:


Keep in mind that if you add an intercooler to your car, you have to be very, very careful of leaks in the piping and hoses or you could very easily throw the fueling for the motor out the window along with your pistons.


True but I wont be cranking the boost up as I don't have a wideband, boost controller, or boost gauge, and I hope to not ever be buying that stuff but who knows..

A VEMS stand alone box can do all 3 of those things and still run on CIS (integrated WBO2 and boost controller and display on android) + be able to do everything else imaginable down the road including sequential fuel, spark in many configurations, 2X EGT's, detect knock ++++ baffling amounts of stuff..
Like DutchPug's 352 rwhp N/A..
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=38765&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Much better value for $ IMO for under a grand, Raceboy is the guy to ask about that..
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ASH silicon hose reducer elbows are your friend...

IIRC, 45 deg bend from dissy to metal 45deg adapter with BOV plumb back
then you'd use a straight reducer to turbo inlet...
have a look at page three of my twincharger build, although my metal adapter doubled as the reducer from turbo, but it's not that hard, thought the dissy outlet was 60mm though.... 50mm seems quite small now...
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautifully done..

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=36432&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

You got a lot of pipe there.. Do you experience any bog due to the time it takes the airplate to feel the effects of changes in TB plate position?
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8170
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
Morghen that installed turbo is a 931 s2 6022 turbo


No it isnt...thats not a 924 turbocharger...or at least the compressor you fitted there is not from a 924.
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1962
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Audi 6411 compressor housing sitting on the us S2 6022 turbo
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
fiat22turbo wrote:


Keep in mind that if you add an intercooler to your car, you have to be very, very careful of leaks in the piping and hoses or you could very easily throw the fueling for the motor out the window along with your pistons.


True but I wont be cranking the boost up as I don't have a wideband, boost controller, or boost gauge, and I hope to not ever be buying that stuff but who knows..

A VEMS stand alone box can do all 3 of those things and still run on CIS (integrated WBO2 and boost controller and display on android) + be able to do everything else imaginable down the road including sequential fuel, spark in many configurations, 2X EGT's, detect knock ++++ baffling amounts of stuff..
Like DutchPug's 352 rwhp N/A..
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=38765&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Much better value for $ IMO for under a grand, Raceboy is the guy to ask about that..


No. That's not it. Everything past the CIS plate cannot have any leaks or the metering will be wrong and that is it good for those thin 931 piston rings.
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1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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