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My 924 Turbo, finally out on the road !
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 1581
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My turbo was built and balanced here https://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/services/balancing
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, CGT turbo, 951 ducted FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife LSD
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carrera RSR wrote:
My turbo was built and balanced here https://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/services/balancing


That's great, i got vsr high speed balancing of my new turbo set up aswell. Not much additional money in a build, but cam be worth alot.
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´79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
´80 924 Turbo
http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1556
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

See your pic here where your pipe on the right crosses the sway bar, mine is wider towards the wheel because your IC tanks point back and mine point out..
My pipe there was slightly outside the frame rail with my 90 off of the IC taking up space way over where the horns mount..
I made it more compact to where my pipe is about even with the frame rail.. The frame rail the sway bar bolts to..

Across the steering rack, my pipe is angled out away from the rack where the pokey bit adjuster thing on it is, to clear that, and it's up high by the pokey bit..


I'm liking your U bend off the compressor more lately..
I'm wondering if you could head from your U bend straight at the frame rail behind the swaybar, put the bend of your 90 over the sway bar, and head back down to the IC from over the sway bar..
Maybe you could come off of your IC with a 45 pointing up over the sway to the inside of the frame rail, and then take some angle out of your 90, make it like an 80, where the pipe crosses over the sway..

If you needed more room I bet you could get some longer bolts for your swaybar mounts and space them down from the frame an inch or so..
Actually, looking at your swaybar, it's a lot different than mine so I can't really compare its location to mine very well..

Get your straight section there, tucked up under the crank pulley..




Just an idea, not that your piping isn't excellent as is..


What does it say on your hoses there? 88 something?
It looks pretty big in diameter for 2.5..
Do your clamps have a T-bolt on each side of them?
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the hoses are from a company called do88.se, they are specialized in hoses and pipes and keep a reasonable price level. Ive ran them at several bars boost at work so they should definitely be good enough for my 931. They do take up space though with a wall thickness of 5mm. I got the twin t bolt clamps for free, probable overkill, but i hope they work

In the future when i redo everything in alupiping and welding i will try to make things tighter. Thanks for the ideas, i just need to sort out the garage and buy myself a tig welder.

Sadly i hurt my back, so haven't had the possibility to sort the last bits and do a test drive. I really really hope it gets better soon, really want to have a go and see how shees running..
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´79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
´80 924 Turbo
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, they day have come, the car is finally out on the road, the weather here has been insanely good the last month, and I also hurt my back, so very little car stuff have been done.

Did some finishing touches like heat shielding cables, getting all the suspension back up. Oil cooler is now semi temporary installed etc

First the bad stuff, something is wrong with the clutch, i have a vibration in the pedal the first centimeters of clutch travel. You can also feel it when you drive away and slip some clutch, but not when its up and running. This is devastating after all effort (considering my limited garage time available) and all the new parts. Something must have been damaged during the marriage between engine to the torque tube, any ideas are welcome. Clutch work with engine in the car, i never even tried it, is it possible or will i want to burn up the car rather than doing it? You can hear it in this clip:

https://youtu.be/5URopFgox-M



The good stuff:

After fixing some leakages I took it for a ride, to get the heat up and see that everyhing works. I didnt intended to do full throttle runs but couldnt resist

I was afraid that it would loose to much in the bottom end, even though the simulations said I wouldnt. But no fears, the response is very nice, at about 1800rpm you hear the turbo spin up, somewhere after 2k it starts building boost, and then somewhere between 2 and 3 it surges away, im not sure when i get full boost, will need to do some actual logging later on, its hard to look at two gauges at the same time The top end is of course as expected. Im very happy that i now got some turbo whine back from the very lowest rpms, a funny little touch.


Next step is to get my MOT/yearly inspection, and hope the dont mind the modding. After that ill take it back home to my garage. Despite the clutch trouble i will try to get some miles on it to make sure everything works, then ill have to start logging AFRs, maybe build some leak test equipment to test my piping system and BOV. I havent plugged in the boost controller yet, that will have to wait a bit, but it will be nuts a 1 bar, thats for sure.

Heres a quick and dirty clip from my one and only test run, with no bonnet on and no MOT i didnt want to bring unnecessary attention, so I kept the test drive fairly short. The alu radiator seems to work well, kept it cool and didnt leak, even though it was 30 deg C.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCnqymbSspw


No modding in sight ..


8" wheel on the front left and 6" on the front right, different tyres on the two back wheels, didnt feel as weird as it should do.



I set the bar when the car still was on stands, and tried to mount it when i put the car on the ground just to see how it moves. Some flex is going on there But to get that strut bar there will need some modding..

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http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 1581
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great to see that full throttle run. Not so great seeing that vibration or whatever in the clutch or TT
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, CGT turbo, 951 ducted FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife LSD
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carrera RSR wrote:
great to see that full throttle run. Not so great seeing that vibration or whatever in the clutch or TT


Yeah, its really annoying, im so very happy with the turbo so its a bit of a bummer.

New complete clutch kit and pilot bearing, resurfaced flywheel, ARP flywheel studs, new clutch fork bearings etc. Everything was new to not get any more clutch problems

The upside is that my shifting problems I always had going in to first and reverse are gone, all gears are super slick now, very nice in combination with the supertight linkage and short shifter.
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´79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
´80 924 Turbo
http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275
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Dutch924-racer  



Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 1006
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2018 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good work!

Do you use a blow off/ recirculation valve in the setup?

Where did you buy the billet wheel ?
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937 trackday car
Series 2 engine
951S turbo and intercooler
937 DITC
Fast road camshaft
Forge recirculation valve + boost controller
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924-76  



Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1359
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2018 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work!
Can't wait to see a pull at 1 bar of boost.
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1976 924 N/A ROW SOLD
1980 931S
1981 931 Part car RIP
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bov can be seen above in the pics that eddie are quoting. Seems to do the job, it has some different springs to chose from, i would prefer to pressure test everything to see that it holds boost

I bought the wheel from slturbo in sweden, he sent a 2670 wheel to kts and made a batch of them for a ralltäy car, and had some spare wheels for me aswell. My oem wheel was damaged when i bought the 951 turbo so had to find a new one, this was the cheapest and best performing option. So far im very very happy with the results!
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´79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
´80 924 Turbo
http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275
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Shurick  



Joined: 15 May 2005
Posts: 486
Location: Russia, Moscow.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cédric wrote:

First the bad stuff, something is wrong with the clutch, i have a vibration in the pedal the first centimeters of clutch travel. You can also feel it when you drive away and slip some clutch, but not when its up and running. This is devastating after all effort (considering my limited garage time available) and all the new parts. Something must have been damaged during the marriage between engine to the torque tube, any ideas are welcome. Clutch work with engine in the car, i never even tried it, is it possible or will i want to burn up the car rather than doing it?


First of all you need to check that TT and bellhousing are torqued tight.

Clutch work on the car is not that scary. Last time I was doing it without a lift I spent about 3 hours to disassemble and 5 to put everything back all alone. Hint: you don't need to remove the gearbox, you can support it with a jack stand and move backwards with TT. Then you can unscrew clutch through a starter hole in bellhousing. You will not have enough space to remove bellhousing off the car but you will be able to move it back and get your clutch and flywheel off the car.
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WBR, Shurick
'79 931 -- intercooled K26-3060-6.10 turbo @ 1.2 bar, EFI+EDIS, 951S brakes, stripped interior, 951 look.
'86 924S -- R.I.P.
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shurick wrote:
Cédric wrote:

First the bad stuff, something is wrong with the clutch, i have a vibration in the pedal the first centimeters of clutch travel. You can also feel it when you drive away and slip some clutch, but not when its up and running. This is devastating after all effort (considering my limited garage time available) and all the new parts. Something must have been damaged during the marriage between engine to the torque tube, any ideas are welcome. Clutch work with engine in the car, i never even tried it, is it possible or will i want to burn up the car rather than doing it?


First of all you need to check that TT and bellhousing are torqued tight.

Clutch work on the car is not that scary. Last time I was doing it without a lift I spent about 3 hours to disassemble and 5 to put everything back all alone. Hint: you don't need to remove the gearbox, you can support it with a jack stand and move backwards with TT. Then you can unscrew clutch through a starter hole in bellhousing. You will not have enough space to remove bellhousing off the car but you will be able to move it back and get your clutch and flywheel off the car.


Good tip, the bellhousing is certainly well torqued, but i really should check the torque tube screws again. I didnt get the clutch plate centered really perfectly this time, hence it was a little bit extra hassle to get the engine and tube together.

Well, the waste gate and its piping is a real bastard to get on and off, and anything that needs to be reached from above is also nothing i look forward too. I dont remember exactly how your engine bay looks like and how the work differs from a regular 931 but its encouraging to hear your words I need the box down, maybe this winter to install a quaife diff, could be a good oportunity to do the work.
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´79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
´80 924 Turbo
http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, game over...

The clutch release bearing popped out of the pressure plate yesterday, I was going to the MOT testing when the pedal went to the floor, glad it happened just as i was going out from the garage.

I dont know how this happened, but i will have to bite the bullet and take things apart again :/
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´79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
´80 924 Turbo
http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1743
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, game over...

The clutch release bearing popped out of the pressure plate yesterday, I was going to the MOT testing when the pedal went to the floor, glad it happened just as i was going out from the garage.

I dont know how this happened, but i will have to bite the bullet and take things apart again :/
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´79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
´80 924 Turbo
http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7871
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got back from my summer holiday(driving the Cayman), man i miss the 924.
Anyway, get that clutch fixed asap and enjoy the car.
I think i have a couple of pressure plates if you need one.
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