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rusted leaking battery box rebuild completed
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

as far as a sealant/rust preventative between my patch panel and the original steel of the car I am thinking that im going to go with a cheaper rubberized sealant used on roof gutters and steel roofs...

with my panel being made of heavier gauge steel than the car is and I think my bolts and washers are stronger than the spot welds that the car was put together with in the first place I don't think that I need much of a glue between my panels as I do need a seal to prevent leaks and rust..

still trying to decide what to use to cover the finished product on the inside of the batt box.. some kind of undercoat? paint? tar? bed liner? idk..

undercoat for wheel well where the bolts protrude? bed liner? what?

should I fill that whole channel with spray foam when im done?
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i got the channel wall piece knocked out and lipped up and am very happt with the way that turned out, ill get some pics up sometime...

for attatching the verticle portion of the channel wall just under the three plugs i have come to the conclusion that there is no possible way to get to the back sides to put bolts through and hold both sides soo...

i put my bolt through my washer and then through a piece of pre drilled angle iron and held it in place by clipping my welder ground to the bolt on the back side of the angel piece...

then i tacked the head of the bolt to my washer real good like..

then drilled my holes through the new piece of metal i made and through whats remaining of the original channel wall belloe the three plugs...

next to my holes that i drilled for the bolt to pass through i drilled another hole, put the bolts through the remaining original wall from the back side, and plug welded the washer-bolt combo through the extra hole i drilled..

left me with some nice studs i can fasten my new metal with because i just cant get to the other side of the bolt witch will be enclosed inside the channel...
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Kens_74_911s  



Joined: 01 Mar 2011
Posts: 529
Location: Southern Pines , North Carolina USA

PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 12:14 am    Post subject: Box Reply with quote

Pop rivets would have been a clean aproach. You can use some body Shutz brush on seam sealer on the transitions old VS new metal. Liquid nails can work as cheap seam sealer. Once it dries its pretty indestructible and paintable.

K
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just slapped down the cash on seam sealer today, local napa will have it in tomorrow morning....

they had too good of a deal on gearwrenches, $36 for stubby and regular sized metric 10-15mm so I left with those too
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

all 3 new custom panels by Ed in and bolted with 3/4 of a quart of seam sealer between all contact areas/overlaps and filled in seams, turned out excellent, had quite a scare when I put the floor plate panel in because as soon as I set it I couldn't move it to line up my holes but I started getting em one by one and pulling it in place with the bolts and eventually got all my bolts in place and tight, tight just before the point of bolts breaking, prolly broke 5 or so bolts getting torque greedy but just replaced them...

something like 60 5mm 8.8 bolts/nuts and 120 3/16" x 1" washers used..

now to beautify seam sealer edges with a razor blade and paint...

and open up my drain hole, probably dremmel with a burr/ side cutter/router style bit because my floor plate lip completely covers the hole..

then I can finally put the interior back together (:
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going to need to fit a drain hole in the bottom of my battery box because the original drain hole out the firewall is an 1/8th" or so higher than my new floor..

ill use a small pipe with nuts and trap the floor plate between the nuts with a piece o rubber to seal and send it out through the AC drain tube in the floor board...

dash and everything higher is all back in now
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oops messed up.... consider this a blank post
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well its done.. heres some pics

























im quite satisfied...

and yes the color on the under side is a lighter blue than the top..

I put many more coats on the top and had to switch to that darker blue cause my can ran out
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As sort of an update/conclusion to this project I'll add some more details..

I had a problem with the channel wall, I guess I plugged its drain doing this.. I wound up with a very small leak still after I did this. The battery box from the engine/underhood side accumulated probably 5 coats of undercoat trying to solve this..

On the top/roof wall of that channel there are a couple stickers covering small holes into the channel area and I got it pinned down to that source of water entry.

I had the car inside dry for like a month and it was still leaking driving me crazy. I ended pulling one of those 3 rubber plugs and got about a quart of water from there. Then I drilled a hole under the fender just above the floor plate of that channel area.
I got another whole gallon of water then easy pissing behind my front right wheel for like 20 minutes.

After it finally quit pissing out I adapted a socket that fit in the 3 plug holes to my shop vac hose. I then put the shop vc on the blow side with the socket in a plug hole and left it running for half an hour. I then experimented with putting the blower on different holes and plugging others for a while. The whole channel area came up to some temperature doing this and I'm confident I got it all quite dry..

Then I found a hose that fit in those plug holes tight, put it in one with a funnel up high and plugged the rest of the plug holes.. I then poured 1.5 ish gallons of motor oil in there filling the whole channel until it came pouring out from under those stickers on top (thats how I found them)..
I did this as rust prevention and this REALLY helped me find any and all leaking spots.

Then I cleaned up the small leak spots and sealed the crap out of any spot I found, I put fat headed screws through those pinholes and my drilled hole with some undercoat under the heads to seal good and then undercoated the crap out if it one more time..

Never any more problems with this area since. No stress cracking or any leaks at all period. It is now pretty rock solid bulletproof and has served me very well.
That galv sheet I installed is some pretty thick stuff, far thicker than car sheet metal, a bit thicker yet than 55 gallon steel barrel material. It was sitting outside for at least 5 years prior to this, covering a scrap barrel, getting no rust the entire time, destined to become a Porsche piece..

There, if anybody reads this in the future because they need to fix there battery box too this should be some more useful information, and I guess I enjoy writing things like this so there you have it..
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michaelodonnell123  



Joined: 20 Mar 2015
Posts: 235
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you did a great job. Glad to see it worked out for you. Question: what can other 924 owners do to prevent the battery tray area from rusting up like that? Mine is in good shape now - should I coat it with something to keep it that way?
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Park it flat or downhill, remove any drain caps, ensure the drains are unblocked and keep the battery acid in the battery and away from the metal. Wash it with baking soda to help neutralize the acid.
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MikeDanger  



Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 770
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what color blue is that?
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MikeDanger wrote:
what color blue is that?


The lighter color matches my friends 90's camaro RS, it's some duplicolor I got for a buck a can at a flea market type place.. Other than that I don't know, but it seems to be some pretty darn good paint for an aerosol can.
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MikeDanger  



Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 770
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like that light blue, whats it say on the can?
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can is long gone, sorry..
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