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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2014 5:18 am Post subject: |
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as far as a sealant/rust preventative between my patch panel and the original steel of the car I am thinking that im going to go with a cheaper rubberized sealant used on roof gutters and steel roofs...
with my panel being made of heavier gauge steel than the car is and I think my bolts and washers are stronger than the spot welds that the car was put together with in the first place I don't think that I need much of a glue between my panels as I do need a seal to prevent leaks and rust..
still trying to decide what to use to cover the finished product on the inside of the batt box.. some kind of undercoat? paint? tar? bed liner? idk..
undercoat for wheel well where the bolts protrude? bed liner? what?
should I fill that whole channel with spray foam when im done? _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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i got the channel wall piece knocked out and lipped up and am very happt with the way that turned out, ill get some pics up sometime...
for attatching the verticle portion of the channel wall just under the three plugs i have come to the conclusion that there is no possible way to get to the back sides to put bolts through and hold both sides soo...
i put my bolt through my washer and then through a piece of pre drilled angle iron and held it in place by clipping my welder ground to the bolt on the back side of the angel piece...
then i tacked the head of the bolt to my washer real good like..
then drilled my holes through the new piece of metal i made and through whats remaining of the original channel wall belloe the three plugs...
next to my holes that i drilled for the bolt to pass through i drilled another hole, put the bolts through the remaining original wall from the back side, and plug welded the washer-bolt combo through the extra hole i drilled..
left me with some nice studs i can fasten my new metal with because i just cant get to the other side of the bolt witch will be enclosed inside the channel... _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Kens_74_911s
Joined: 01 Mar 2011 Posts: 529 Location: Southern Pines , North Carolina USA
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 12:14 am Post subject: Box |
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Pop rivets would have been a clean aproach. You can use some body Shutz brush on seam sealer on the transitions old VS new metal. Liquid nails can work as cheap seam sealer. Once it dries its pretty indestructible and paintable.
K _________________ Ken - ebay: wandrey1 , *0 , *00 , *01
74 911s widebody
96 BMW 750iL
99 BMW 328i
81 VW MK1-1.8 GTI, 5 spd Pickup
02 Explorer (wife's)
92 BMW 735iL Parting
84,85,86x3,87,944. 82-924,88-924s parted
68, 70, 72, 73, 911~ 70,73 914 past Pcars |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 11:04 am Post subject: |
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just slapped down the cash on seam sealer today, local napa will have it in tomorrow morning....
they had too good of a deal on gearwrenches, $36 for stubby and regular sized metric 10-15mm so I left with those too _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 2:17 am Post subject: |
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all 3 new custom panels by Ed in and bolted with 3/4 of a quart of seam sealer between all contact areas/overlaps and filled in seams, turned out excellent, had quite a scare when I put the floor plate panel in because as soon as I set it I couldn't move it to line up my holes but I started getting em one by one and pulling it in place with the bolts and eventually got all my bolts in place and tight, tight just before the point of bolts breaking, prolly broke 5 or so bolts getting torque greedy but just replaced them...
something like 60 5mm 8.8 bolts/nuts and 120 3/16" x 1" washers used..
now to beautify seam sealer edges with a razor blade and paint...
and open up my drain hole, probably dremmel with a burr/ side cutter/router style bit because my floor plate lip completely covers the hole..
then I can finally put the interior back together (: _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2014 4:06 am Post subject: |
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I am going to need to fit a drain hole in the bottom of my battery box because the original drain hole out the firewall is an 1/8th" or so higher than my new floor..
ill use a small pipe with nuts and trap the floor plate between the nuts with a piece o rubber to seal and send it out through the AC drain tube in the floor board...
dash and everything higher is all back in now _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:16 am Post subject: |
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oops messed up.... consider this a blank post _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 5:33 am Post subject: |
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well its done.. heres some pics
im quite satisfied...
and yes the color on the under side is a lighter blue than the top..
I put many more coats on the top and had to switch to that darker blue cause my can ran out _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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As sort of an update/conclusion to this project I'll add some more details..
I had a problem with the channel wall, I guess I plugged its drain doing this.. I wound up with a very small leak still after I did this. The battery box from the engine/underhood side accumulated probably 5 coats of undercoat trying to solve this..
On the top/roof wall of that channel there are a couple stickers covering small holes into the channel area and I got it pinned down to that source of water entry.
I had the car inside dry for like a month and it was still leaking driving me crazy. I ended pulling one of those 3 rubber plugs and got about a quart of water from there. Then I drilled a hole under the fender just above the floor plate of that channel area.
I got another whole gallon of water then easy pissing behind my front right wheel for like 20 minutes.
After it finally quit pissing out I adapted a socket that fit in the 3 plug holes to my shop vac hose. I then put the shop vc on the blow side with the socket in a plug hole and left it running for half an hour. I then experimented with putting the blower on different holes and plugging others for a while. The whole channel area came up to some temperature doing this and I'm confident I got it all quite dry..
Then I found a hose that fit in those plug holes tight, put it in one with a funnel up high and plugged the rest of the plug holes.. I then poured 1.5 ish gallons of motor oil in there filling the whole channel until it came pouring out from under those stickers on top (thats how I found them)..
I did this as rust prevention and this REALLY helped me find any and all leaking spots.
Then I cleaned up the small leak spots and sealed the crap out of any spot I found, I put fat headed screws through those pinholes and my drilled hole with some undercoat under the heads to seal good and then undercoated the crap out if it one more time..
Never any more problems with this area since. No stress cracking or any leaks at all period. It is now pretty rock solid bulletproof and has served me very well.
That galv sheet I installed is some pretty thick stuff, far thicker than car sheet metal, a bit thicker yet than 55 gallon steel barrel material. It was sitting outside for at least 5 years prior to this, covering a scrap barrel, getting no rust the entire time, destined to become a Porsche piece..
There, if anybody reads this in the future because they need to fix there battery box too this should be some more useful information, and I guess I enjoy writing things like this so there you have it.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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michaelodonnell123
Joined: 20 Mar 2015 Posts: 235 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 12:20 am Post subject: |
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I think you did a great job. Glad to see it worked out for you. Question: what can other 924 owners do to prevent the battery tray area from rusting up like that? Mine is in good shape now - should I coat it with something to keep it that way? _________________ MOD
1988 Porsche 924S
2007 Jaguar XK
2012 Fiat 500 |
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fiat22turbo
Joined: 18 Jan 2006 Posts: 4040 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 1:07 am Post subject: |
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Park it flat or downhill, remove any drain caps, ensure the drains are unblocked and keep the battery acid in the battery and away from the metal. Wash it with baking soda to help neutralize the acid. _________________ Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose) |
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002 Posts: 770 Location: Denver
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:08 am Post subject: |
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what color blue is that? _________________ It was either this or a giant box of legos |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:12 am Post subject: |
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MikeDanger wrote: | what color blue is that? |
The lighter color matches my friends 90's camaro RS, it's some duplicolor I got for a buck a can at a flea market type place.. Other than that I don't know, but it seems to be some pretty darn good paint for an aerosol can. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002 Posts: 770 Location: Denver
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:17 am Post subject: |
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I like that light blue, whats it say on the can? _________________ It was either this or a giant box of legos |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:22 am Post subject: |
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Can is long gone, sorry.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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