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About the suspension,..
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 7:17 am    Post subject: About the suspension,.. Reply with quote

Ok A-team,..

Symptoms: highway sometimes 3/4, most times at halfway. Low speeds does the same thing but more often

Headlights instantly make the reading higher buy 1/4

Where is the normal setting for the temp gauge?

new thermo recently installed, haven't ruled out re bleeding the system, how is this done?

How do I test the fans? Is there two speeds? How should the operate? On all the time, or no?


Whatcha got?


Last edited by ThomasJoseph315 on Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:57 am; edited 17 times in total
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9066
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you need to fix the ground for the gauge.

Wouldn't hurt to check the power supply to it also...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
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brian19600  



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 375
Location: NJ/CT

PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Headlights affecting temperature gauge can mean an issue with your grounds. Have you cleaned your under dash grounds?

There are 2 speeds. The lower speed only comes on when the ignition is off and the radiator still requires cooling.
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maybeoneday  



Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 82
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the actual overheating or even if your car is or is not overheating I don't want to say too much. It is quite possible, maybe even probable, that you have a problem with the cooling system in addition to the possible problem I will suggest. However, it is going to be a little hard to trust your temp gauge until you get it reading correctly.

The fact that the headlights make the gauge rise by about a 1/4 sounds like a bad ground connection somewhere. It sounds like the temp gauge is drawing current from another circuit (I am guessing that neither the heat produced by the lights or the change in air flow is enough to cause a temp rise of this magnitude). Because the lights draw a large amount of current from the chassis when turned on, if there is a bad ground connection, the path of high resistance created by the lights could cause the the gauge (or its sender) to change because of a changed reference point. I would start by having a look at the ground connections under the dash and progress from there. Sounds like you are going to have some multimeter fun, this sort of problem can take a while to find and fix. Hope this helps.

Hope this helps
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maybeoneday  



Joined: 09 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, three replies all with a similar theory all at once. There was not 1 reply up when I started typing, that is impressive.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThomasJoseph315 wrote:
... haven't ruled out re bleeding the system, how is this done?

This might not be the best way, but I've always done it like this: Move heater lever to the right to full heat position, loosen the hose-clamp on the vent-hose and take out vent plug, start the engine, and idle for over a minute or so. If bubbles appear, add coolant by funnel into the hose. When no more bubbles appear, reinstall the plug and tighten clamp. Check to see the coolant in expansion tank is between max and min marks, if not, correct with engine off.
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea,.. I need to check for grounding. i guess. anyone have a diagram or a pic to where the ground is? I know there is a star cluster under the dash, but is their only one? Any ussual suspects? I was thinking of running a 12 gauge wire from the ground near the battery box and running it to that cluster.

Is there something wrong with the body's of these cars that they won't hold aground after a while? Is this just where the wire touches the local ground? I know anything is possible, but if all I have to do is wiggle some wires I'll be happy, but if it's something where i got to wire a ground to every spot in the car? good grief, lol.

How about the ussual spots and I'll go from there... oh one other thing that maybe related. the wipers don't work on the regular switch. The swithc works, but maaaaybe all these grounds are screwing up in a central location.


Thanks for the help


Last edited by ThomasJoseph315 on Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is your reward for helping me, saw this at a car show today!

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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThomasJoseph317 wrote:
Yea,.. I need to check for grounding. ... How about the usual spots and I'll go from there.

The important wiring grounds:
* under dash near fuse/relay board
* near the ignition coil
* near each of the headlights (you'd probably see headlight issues)
* near left rear light (you'd see tail-light issues)
(and of course the negative battery terminal)

ThomasJoseph317 wrote:
Is there something wrong with the body's of these cars that they won't hold aground after a while?

Some of these grounds are copper spade terminals screwed to zinc connectors -- which invite galvanic corrosion - otherwise, just ordinary oxidation of terminals takes place over time for any electrical connections.

ThomasJoseph317 wrote:
I need to check for grounding. i guess. anyone have a diagram or a pic to where the ground is?

Some printings of the Hanes Manual lists the grounds as part of the legend in the wiring diagrams -- I know they are present on the '79 wiring diagram legend. Unfortunately, I don't think they are listed separately in the legends for the wiring diagrams on the Pelican site.
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ thanks for the tips! I'll take a look at those areas. If I have to, I'll simply just run ground wires to these locations if there are only a few of them, that's not that big of a deal for me.

I thought they didn't use Galvanized steel in the early 924's? I got a 76, would that matter?

I got a Hayes manual and know it shows diagrams, but specifically where these points are they don't do a good job pointing this out.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThomasJoseph315 wrote:
... oh one other thing that maybe related. the wipers don't work on the regular switch. The swithc works, but maaaaybe all these grounds are screwing up in a central location.

Wiper electrics ground near the fuse-relay board, so this is very likely the ground at issue, if indeed that's the cause.

Some connections on the 924 are not necessarily galvanized steel, but zinc, at least that's what I remember I saw when I last cleaned the ground connection at the left tail-light assembly years ago.

Galvanic corrosion, as you probably know, occurs whenever two different metals are in contact because of their difference in electrode potential. Zinc for example has an electrode potential of -0.76 volts whereas copper is +0.34 volts as compared to a hydrogen electrode. (This is part of the so-called electrochemical series.) So in any connection between two metals the one with the lowest potential will corrode. For example, copper connected to iron or steel will corrode faster than that of a iron-steel connection.

ThomasJoseph315 wrote:
I got a Hayes manual and know it shows diagrams, but specifically where these points are they don't do a good job pointing this out.

Yes, I didn't seen any for the 1976--1978 models either, but they are listed in the 1979 wiring-diagrams legend. For example in the Hanes Porsche 924 and Turbo 1976 thru 1982 Repair Manuals published in 1981 and 1984, they are listed on page 255. My guess is that these grounds are similar for your 1976.
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SilverGhost  



Joined: 16 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem with the headlights affecting the temperature gauge.

After chasing about for a while with a multimeter I determined that the connection between the strap from the body to the engine was poor, and that the problem lay in the fact that the inlet manifold bolt at the engine end of that strap was poorly connected to the engine block.

Fitting an additional heavy earth strap between a bell housing bolt and a coil mounting bolt fixed the temperature gauge problem, and also made the fuel gauge reading much steadier.
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've replaced the short ground cable in battery bay from the batt to the body with a 4 gauge wire because it was crumbling. I also ran a 4 gauge wire from the batt ground to the engine for the starter. There is also a new 8 gauge wire from the batt ground to the alt. There is a factory 4 gauge wire from the coil to another intake bolt, I'll replace that one tomorrow.

Grrrrrrrrrounds :/
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SilverGhost  



Joined: 16 Mar 2011
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Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't stress ThomasJoseph315. Keep the faith and keep at it.
Once you've sorted the half dozen or so common issues with old 924s, you'll have a great looking, fun, reliable car.
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

long day,,...

turns out it was the headlight switch. I had to clean it.

Tired,.. I'll post more tomorrow.
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