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[kondzi]

Well, as I got mine issues with DITC sorted out (by removing it completely) I'll share what I did in my 931 to make it running without (faulty) stock ignition system that consists of:
- DITC,
- Ignition Coil,
- Distributor,
- Ignition module,
- Flywheel sensor.

When I finally figured out it's DITC or its sensor that causes my issues (lost ignition triggering signals with engine getting warmer), I needed to 100% my diagnosis was right.

I plugged in Ford's EDIS4 system temporarily, to do that I needed:
- Ford EDIS4 module with plug (used from eBay $40),
- Ford Fiesta MK7 ignition coil pack with ignition wires and plug (used from eBay $8 )
- 36-1 Trigger wheel (water jet cut - my design $25)
- VR Sensor with plug (came with EDIS4 module included in price)
- VR Sensor mount (I made mine form stainless steel bolt/nuts/washers)

I set (rotated) the engine at 0 deg BTDC, adjusted trigger wheel (installed as sandwich plate between pulley and crank) with the missing tooth 90 deg ahead my VR sensor (google for "MegaSquirt EDIS" for more details), connected all the wires (again google for "MegaSquirt EDIS") and prayed

EIDS by default runs at 10 deg BTDC (safe mode) unless something else tells to advance or retard.

Not to get into more details (yet), the above setup allowed me to have a perfectly smooth idle and easy start of the engine whether cold or warm.

This is a very inexpensive mod when you find parts in a scrap yard, and very reliable (EDIS is really hard to brake). You follow the rules, and it just works!

I've installed the EDIS Coil Pack in the place of distributor using an adapter that slides inside the distributor mount and is sealed both with o-ring seal and a standard flat seal between the housing and a surface of the adapter.
You can find such adapter in Ideola's garage for sale, but for me it was easier to make one on my own, rather than ship overseas




I may paint it black in the end, and work on it's visuals a bit, but for the moment what I cared most was to make the engine running, and a color changes nothing at all in that case


I have installed the EDIS4 module in place of the factory Ignition Amplifier module.

Here's the factory module:


And the EDIS4 mounted in its place:
[/img]


The VR sensor mounted with my custom built adjustable adapter to get the gap perfect for the 36-1 trigger wheel looks like that:




So having all of the above in place and some temporary wiring I made my engine running finally
Here's how my TEMPORARY setup looked like:





So as you can see not much is needed to make a static 10 deg BTDC ignition system that is reliable and inexpensive.Well you can rotate the trigger wheel and end up with a completely different ignition advance obviously, but 10 deg BTDC is just SAFE. You'll not get the power, nor the acceleration you'd expect, but the car will be drivable.

There was one mod extra to EDIS4 plug that I needed to create to get a TACH signal from it to drive my tach-o-meter in the gauge cluster. With EDIS4 it's easy as that:



You just connect the PIN marked as CTO (Clean Tach Out) to the tach and it works! Most probably you will need though to add a cable to the EDIS4 plug, as just like with mine it was factory blinded. I needed to drill a hole in the plug cable organiser and solder a cable to the plug PIN (Green Cable, 2nd from the top):


Obviously that's not the end of the story, I still needed something that would advance and retard my spark according to the situation, but that's a story for another post next time.

Hope the above will help someone struggling with this cursed DITC in the end
_________________
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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)