924Board.org

[tylercle]

Hey everyone, thanks for bearing with the newb on what I'm hoping is a simple fix.

I'm fiddling with my 77 n/a after changing the head gasket, but she doesn't want to fire. Turns over (shouldn't be the starter), new plugs (new wires on order), firing order is good, no vac leaks, timing is right. I messed with advancing and retarding the vac and it nearly started, but no cigar. So I'm investigating what the seasoned 924ers out there have to say.

There is one wire, blue and yellow, that I cannot find its home.

Didn't mess with the fuel line order, but I heard fuel accumulator can go bad. She had poor start previously (I had to tap throttle to get her going).

Please lemme know any ideas, thank you!




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'77 924 "Penelope Cruz" all stock n/a, 70K.

"...actually, ambition won't get you that far. You'll shift gears. You'll see something that's shinier. But if you believe... then you're the long-distance runner." - Sam Abell

[Ian89C4]

Something I did when she would not start after rebuilding the engine is remove the air line that runs from the AAV to the intake off of the intake so that she can just suck in air from there (I had issues with my AAV wanting to initiate). I highly doubt that this is your problem, but one never knows. IF she does start...be ready to shut her off fairly quick as she will just continue to accelerate at a pretty good pace as she can suck air in freely from the opening in the Intake.

Are you sure that you have spark?

Fuel accumulator could be bad....are you getting any pressure to the injectors...one way to see if you are getting fuel at all is to either pull an injector and place it in a glass jar (hooked up of course) and try and start the car. You can also take off the cold start valve and it should spray on initial crank.

I am sure that someone much more knowledgeable will hop on here...

Don't know where that wire goes however.....

Cheers and good luck
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Ian Edgerly
North Carolina

Current:
1981 924 SCCA/ChampCar Weissach Race Car ("Serenity")
1987 924S ChampCar Endurance Car ("Der Weg")
1980 924 Euro ("Wahala")

[Rasta Monsta]

give her a shot of ether and see what happens
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[ideola]

I believe that wire goes to the coolant temp sensor, the one that is screwed into the rear water flange on the back of the head. It's kind of hard to see with the engine in, but you should be able to reach your hand down there and the spade connector should slip over the circular male spade connection on the CLT. If it's not for the CLT, I'm stumped, as that is the only open female spade connection I can think of at the back of the engine. The rest are Bosch style connection (for the AAV, WUR, CSCV, and TTS), and then the oil pressure sensor, which has ring terminals. In any case, that wire should not be preventing the car from starting.

While we're talking about electrical connections, double check that you have the Bosch terminals connected to the correct items. CSV gets the blue one; WUR gets the grey one; AAV gets the black one; and TTS (Thermal Time Switch, also in the rear water flange) gets the brown one. If any of these are swapped around (especially the WUR and CSV) the car won't run.

+1 to the use of starting fluid. In my experience, when the CIS system is disconnected and loses it's prime, it can be difficult to get it re-primed. I suspect this might be the issue you're having. What I've found is that giving it a squirt or two of starting fluid is enough to get the car to fire and then it will basically force the CIS to start flowing fuel. You want to be judicious with this approach though (don't do it too many times in succession) because there will be a moment when the starting fluid runs out that the car will run extremely lean. I've heard of people detonating their engine from this, so some due care is warranted.

Before you do the starting fluid, I would suggest getting a spark tester and verifying that you have good clean spark FIRST at the main coil wire, and then checking all four plugs. You should pull the fuel pump relay when you do this so you don't flood out the engine. Make sure you've eliminated the plugs, the plug wires, the coil, the coil wire, the distributor cap, and the rotor all as possible culprits. The spark test will help you isolate any of these problems.

Double check to make sure you have the cam sprocket on the correct way. The Audi/VW symbol and other writing that is on the deeper side of the cam sprocket should face the windshield, NOT the front of the car. Use the dimple on the deep side of the sprocket to check timing. Put the motor at TDC, make sure the front crank pulley, the cam sprocket, and the flywheel mark all agree that you're at TDC. Then check the indexing of the ignition distributor. With the engine at TDC, the rotor should point to the #1 plug lead. Then put the cap on, and install the plug wires in proper 1-3-4-2 firing order in a CLOCKWISE rotation. (If you have them on backward, the car will only run on two cylinders!!!).

After you've done all of this and get the car running, you should change the oil, as it is quite likely to be contaminated with fuel by now.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[daniel]

have you done a compression test?
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet

[BionicBalls]

You said that the timing is right, but that you got a little cough when messing with the vacuum advance?

My question would be, which timing is right? The mechanical or the ignition.

The mechanical is lining up the crank and the cam with the timing belt. The ignition requires looking down at the flywheel and setting the dizzy according to the marks.
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1980 924 NA
1982 931