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Straight six engine in a 924
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CÚdric wrote:
I mounted a Spal fan on my 931, very neat and bolt on, or is it not enough space for that either?

This engine could be nice, 10:1 compression, ported, Weber, hot cam+ nice lenght tuned manifold. Straight sixes can really sound so sweet in na tune


Yeah, 2x spal fans will do the job. If I mount 8 inch fans, (one in each upper corner) I believe that there is clearance for the humongous pulley in the middle. The fans are quite thin at the perimeter, which is where they will meet the pulley, so hopefully this setup will work.

Hehe, thanks for the advice regarding a power upgrade. It will be necessary to do something, that's for sure. An n/a straight 6 on carbs does sound great, you have probably heard a few B30's in Sweden
But I must admit that I lean more towards an EFI setup with turbo.

Well well well, first things first, and that is to get the car driveable with this engine.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is how it looks with 2x 8 inch fans.



Close, but it should work.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Fri Jan 15, 2016 8:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This weekend I finished the bracket on the carburetor for manual operating the choke. Here I will also use a bicycle handbrake cable



Not much space, but it works.

_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Fri Jan 15, 2016 8:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made a little progress the last couple of days, mostly small brackets. When looking for some other parts in my workshop, I found some parts that has been laying around for 8 years or so.
A clutch cable end (plastic fork) broke many years ago, and I was keen on finding a solution that could prevent this from ever happening again. I had some parts lasercut, so I could create a solution, using ball bearings, instead of having plastic rubbing against steel. I never finished up this solution, cause I instantly bought a new cable(old style) after the break down, and forgot the solution a bit.

But all the parts suddenly appeared, and since I'm working in the engine bay, I may as well finish the clutch cable end idea now.

Here are the parts (welded together)


This is the new "fork"


As you can see, I have cut off the end of the clutch arm, and welded a ring on, instead. In this ring, a ball bearing is pressed.

The new fork, is made from stainless steel; two lasercut sheet metal parts, and a round bar, with inside thread, TIG welded together.

Assembling is just mounting the eye on the threaded end of the cable, and one bolt through the eye and through the bearing.

I just have to remove the clutch pedal, and weld a ring on that one also. I have made two forks, off course.

I have also made a small aluminium piece, for mounting the throttle and choke cable where the original throttle cable was attached.



The throttle cable end, needs a fork. I have made one out of steel.


Years ago, I replaced the throttle cable, and kept the old one. But unfortuneatly it was thrown out approx two years ago. I could have used the fork from that one, with just 1/2 inch cable, which could be attached to the cable I'm going to be using for the 6 cyl engine. You always need something, when it has been thrown out.....

Nevermind, it took an hour to finish up the new one.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Sat Jan 16, 2016 8:31 am; edited 1 time in total
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original 6 cyl upper waterneck was missing, so I fabricated a new one from stainless steel. I will have to machine the rear side, since the plate is warped, because of the welding.

My old lathe will probably do the job.


_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Fri Jan 15, 2016 8:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have finished the clutch pedal end also, so now I have a complete clutch cable kit, with ball bearings instead of plastic forks.

This evening I finished the exhaust header/downpipe. Well it's only spotwelded, but it has the correct shape and only needs to be fully welded, and have a bracket attached, for the rubber ring, carrying the exhaust, at the front of the silencer.







Yes it's a pathetic dimension, yes it's not flow optimized, but the tube was what I had in the workshop, and since the main purpose is to just make the car run in the first place, I think its gonna work ok.

If/when I will be looking for more power from this engine, a turbocharger will probably be helpfull, and then I have to make another header anyway.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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the_mad_electrician  



Joined: 16 Nov 2009
Posts: 1073
Location: Central Georgia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you get that thing running we need video!
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81 924 N/A

2004 Ranger "Edge"

2005 Mazda 6
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yes, there will be video...
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good saturday in the workshop.

Left Engine mount


Right engine mount


Fully welded Exhaust downpipe with bracket for the rubber suspension ring.


I will have to wait, finishing the engine mounts, until I have the correct vibration dampers and the cross member is in its place again.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Thu Jan 21, 2016 7:57 am; edited 1 time in total
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been struggelin' a bit to find out how I can make the original tachometer work with the 6 cyl engine. I thought that it needed a 12 volt positive pulse, but apparently it needs a high energi charge to give any reading. My original plan was to use a proximity switch, pointing at the front pulley, where two pieces of metal was welded onto. Then you have two positive signals per revolution = 4 cyl.

But a test I made, didn't move the needle. This was strange, cause I had done the same test on a new tachometer for my boat, where it worked perfect. So I did some search on the web to find out what I was missing.

And what I found out, was that these old tachometers needs more than just 12 volt, to show anything.

I couldn't come up with a good plan on how to build a system that would work, so I finally decided to order this tachometer converter.

http://www.ashlocktech.com/TACH-ADAPT.html

It can be hooked up to the coil on the 6 cyl engine(like a normal setup), and set to give the correct reading on the 4 cyl tachometer. There are a few tachometer converters on the market, but this one is made by a Porsche guy, so off course this one is preferred
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a couple of vibration dampers that may be usefull for engine mounts. But it looks like they would come pretty close to the new exhaust downpipe, so I decided to ad a few more bends, to make more space.

First I welded it onto a large piece of metal profile, so I could cut a piece away, and still keep the end to end relation, since this is important to maintain.

Then I made the new piece to be inserted.



Fully welded.



Now there is more space, so the vibration damper is not melted on the first trip.



Yesterday I took the engine out of car, now it's time to start working on the clutch.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Thu Jan 21, 2016 8:02 am; edited 1 time in total
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that the engine is out of the car, I simply had to connect some wires, so I could perform a testrun.



I was very curious on how it would run with the carburetor turned on the adaptorplate.

Taken into consideration that I haven't yet cut a gasket, to place between the adaptor and the intake manifold, it runs pretty OK.

I also have to feed the engine with gasoline through a handpump from an outboard motor, since there is no mechanical fuel pump. An even stream of gasoline from an electric pump would be better. This hand pump adds a lot of bubbles.

Here is a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSbfZez1Eu8

I think it's gonna sound great under the bonnet of the 924.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Sat Jan 16, 2016 8:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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James C  



Joined: 12 Feb 2013
Posts: 21
Location: Akl NZ

PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


_________________
Sorry what? I couldn't hear you over my pop-up headlights.
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few updates.

I took a compression test of the engine, and the result was very satisfying. All cylinders had 10,5-11 bar of pressure. (152-159 PSI)

I have connected the tachometer converter and a spare 924 tachometer to the engine, and it works. The original tachometer appears to show the correct rpms of the 6 cyl engine.

Did a little measuring regarding the pilot bearing issue I have.



The bearing in the crankshaft is 18 mm (0.7 inch)inside, and the 924 propshaft is 15 mm (0.6 inch) outside.

So the solution is to make a bushing that can be pressed easily onto the propshaft and protrude a little, so it engages the pilotbearing.

The clutch disc will slide over the 18 mm shaft (tested), so the bushing can be pressed on first, and the disc can be installed at any time.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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Horizonblue  



Joined: 13 Oct 2011
Posts: 306
Location: Sorring city, Denmark, Europe

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Partially modified cross member, engine mounts welded on.



I'm going to modify the brackets for the steering rack also. The steering rack will be lowered 10 mm (0.4 inch), I need all the space I can get under the engine. These 10 mm will make it flush with the the cross member.
_________________
Euro 924, 1976

"If you can't fix it, don't break it"

/P.G. Andersen


Last edited by Horizonblue on Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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