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Win the Battle With Your Pilot Bearing
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2624
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The thread in the PB carrier which P refers to as:
Quote:
47 105 169 A
sleeve with needle-roller bearing

is definitely a M12x1.5 thread. Acording to the PET, same part # is used throughout all the 2.0L NA models.

It is indeed rather thin, about 4 threads or 6mm max so it`s not difficult to understand why some of these get stripped, particularly if the incorrect thread is forced through.

Note the marking on the inserted tap. A head stud with M12x1.75 thread is included for comparison.





The whole thing; carrier, bearing & seal is nearly $90 @ Pelican, an OE part. The bearing itself (047 105 313) is cheap @ $6, the seal (047 105 311) a rip @ $30.

After some time wasting, think that the Ford bearing is same as a 1990 Bronco 2 with 2.9L.


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Allan @ DTA wrote:
I have no issue with superchargers, they are for guys who want to drive a car rather than talk about horsepower with their baseball cap on backwards
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1869
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just confirmed that indeed the clutch housing to engine block M12 bolts are M12x1.5. You'll have some of those handy as you will have removed the bell housing, and that's the size I used.
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2624
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

!tom wrote:
I have just confirmed that indeed the clutch housing to engine block M12 bolts are M12x1.5.

Only by referring to the FSM or tech specs I bet.

I`m happy to bet a case of beer.

Had you psychically checked the bolts and block threads with an accurate thread gauge like I did you would very likely be posting that there is a discrepancy with the Porsche data.

On an XJ and VC block at least, the thread is standard metric course, M12 x 1.75. So while we are both in thread correction mode, how about really checking on an actual engine block and post back the result.

A trivial point perhaps but it may just make this job much easier for another reader by not fouling or stripping the thread with an incorrect bolt.
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Allan @ DTA wrote:
I have no issue with superchargers, they are for guys who want to drive a car rather than talk about horsepower with their baseball cap on backwards
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1869
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RC,

Correct on all counts. The FSM lists the bolts as M12x1.5, and I know they're standard metric coarse thread.

And, like I said previously, I did use this size to pull the pilot bearing. This must explain why I found the need to run a tap through the bearing carrier, which in retrospect was not a good thing to do.

Good thing I have an untouched spare still in the crank of my spare engine!

This may also explain the tendency reported here on the threads in the carrier stripping out. I read elsewhere to use an engine bolt to press out the carrier and several anecdotes of this stripping the carrier out. Hopefully the correct size (such as an upper transmission bell housing bolt for the Audi bell housing at least) would work without damaging the carrier.
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1691
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kind of a silly argument. I stripped out mine, tapped it for a bigger bolt and pulled it. I think the danger is in stripping the housing if you intend to re-use it. I didn't care; I just wanted the little bastard out. The issue then becomes the price of the housing, as the needle bearings are cheap and plentiful.
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bearing update: 1986 Bronc II , 2.9l, Mazda transmission, National Bearing #F33126
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