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Is my ECU cooked???

 
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Johnny_924S  
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2002 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey everyone. i have a question regarding my 87 924S. Last week i was taking off from work and i was "giving it" a little more then normal (but not too much) maybe 5000 RPM. am just as I was about to switch into second. my engine shut off. i thought it was the timing belt so i had a quick peek and it was ok so i gritted my teeth and turned the key....she fired right up and i continued home without a second thought. Anyway about 2 weeks later i drove to work as normal and parked. Come 5:00 and i was on my way home. I didnt get more then 200 feet (30 seconds) and she stalled again. So i fired it up and thought ok ill try again, but 30 seconds later it died again. so i pulled back into my parking lot at work. It stalled 3 times in the span of 200 feet. I thought it was the fuel filter so i changed that...nothing so i took it to a porsche shop where it sits now. this being the long weekend they wont be able to look any further until tuesday and i just dont think i can make it that long. i called them lastnight and the guy said that he already had an hours labour into it and he has determined that it is not the fuel system. It is most likley electrical. Has anyone had this before and if so what is a resonable cause. If it is the ECU what can expect to pay? Thanks for any help you can give me.

-John
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gohim  
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2002 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first thing to try is replacing the DME relay. Failure of the DME relay (which controls fuel flow) is very common since it is a heavily loaded component.

You should be able to buy a german made replacement from an aftermarket supplier for $50 or less. Get a replacment now, and if it curs your problem, throw away the defective relay, and immediately buy a spare to keep in you glove box.
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jcope  
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2002 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My '87 924S did almost EXACTLY the same thing. I was leaving work and it just quit, but every once in a while it would start. I couldn't trust it. One time it stalled in traffic. I got someone to push me, and as I coasted down a hill, I tried the key, and it started right up. I changed the fuel pump and some relays, but nothing changed. I did notice the problem got worse, and after a while I couldn't get it to start at all.

My mechanic was stumped, but he noticed that tapping on the ECU made a difference. I resorted to tapping on it to get the car to run, but that also was less and less effective. After a while I was banging the hell out of it. I replaced the ECU with a used one, and the problem is gone.

I think Bosch doesn't actually make them anymore, but they refurbish them. One of those is over $1000. My mechanic found a salvaged one real quick, and charged me a lot less. I can't remember how much exactly. It was less than $500. I thought it was pretty steep for a used part that wasn't that hard to find and isn't that hard to remove. But I was so grateful, I paid him. I installed it myself. It takes 10 minutes.

I got lots of advice on the group here. You can search for my posts.
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Lizard  
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2002 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

get rid of the comp rip out the entire wiring harnes run with bear min less to go wrong
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dluney  
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2002 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem could be with the ignition pick-ups. If the air gap is excessive it can cause the engine to stall. If the air gap is "on the edge" it can be effected by both temp and RPM. If you do need a replacement ECU I have a couple, so let me know what the model number is and I can compare. I am sure i have an 87 924S that I took out of my race car to put in the 88 computer (higher rpm limit).
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8794
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2002 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey David...


[ This Message was edited by: 924RACR on 2002-05-23 07:12 ]
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afenn  
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2002 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924Racer
How did you reply with a pic.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8794
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2002 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the code I used


Vaughan
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Johnny_924S  
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2002 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for all the advice but the shop told me it was a fuel pressure regulator. the one at the back is what they said....i have no idea what the heck that is.. i know that there is a fuel pressure dampner at the rear and i dont know if thats the same thing. ill let you know. regardless, the bill is only 275. Also im looking for a nice set of phone dials or other PORSCHE rims that will fit my car. (no fuchs or old school 924 rims) if you know of any great deals please let me know mine are in horrid condition and i think it would make the difference if i replaced them. Who knows it might rekindl the love i first saw in the car.....
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8794
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2002 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have phonedials already, right? Why not just have them refinished?

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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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gohim  
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2002 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the look of phone dial rims fit the 924S perfectly. A bonus is the fact the the phone dials are relative light. The only wheels lighter are the Fuchs "911" forged, and Fuchs "Trashcan Lid" forged wheels.

If the finish on yours are ugly (I would not be surprised), the Factory Finish seems to last pnly 3-4 years before it starts to deteriorate. If you are happy with the phone dial look, remove the wheels and have them powder coated. Powder coating is much tougher than the original paint finish. After four years the phone dials that I had powder coated when I converted my 81 924 to four wheel disc brakes still look like new.
I should cost you around $40-$50 a wheel, including the center caps, stripping and coating.

You could also refinish the wheels yourself after stipping the old finish. You can buy "Wurth" spray paint (primer, "mercedes silver", and clear coat"). The silver is an excellent match, but by the time you buy enough paint, and strip the wheels, you will have almost as much into it, as powder coating would cost you.

You can also take this opportunity to find a pair of 15 X 7 phone dials for the rear of your car, and have them refinished to match the 15 X 6 wheels that you have refinished for the front to improve handling. Wheels with a bad finish are much cheaper than new, wheels ir wheels with a good finsh. I bought my 15 x6 wheels, needing to be refinished from a salvage yard with the center caps, lug nuts, and shipping for $240.
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