924Board.org

[Berlin]

How do I get the back nuts off so I can replace the drums.

[Paul T.]

A 24mm socket with a 1/2 inch breaker bar and about 6 feet of cheater bar attached to a lot of ass! Any Questions?

[Joes924]

I take it by a tire shop around here they will break em loose for free (cause the brakes were done byem)then have em snugem up and put the cotter pin back ..Pick a shop close to home what $5.00 and they should brakem loose with a air ratchet or the bar like paul t. said.

[friskynibbles]

i posted earlier about my problem. i think i'm using a ... 36mm? socket. and a breaker. and a cheater bar originally used for trucking hehe... and what happens? the wheels turn. tomorrow we're throwing some heat on it and using an air ratchet hopefully. whatever it takes.
good luck.

[jamez]

a good impact wrench should take it right off, no heat needed hopefully..

[gohim]

Two things you can try first.

Take the cap off the wheel, and stick the socket through, then put the wheels back on the ground, and make sure that the parking brake is set REAL TIGHT. Then use the five foot cheater bar.

If that doesn't work, jack the car back up, put the socket on the axle nut, with the cheater bar contacting the ground, and lower the car slowly letting the car's weight turn the socket.

[Welsh 924 Blokey]

That all sounds rather kill or cure!!! Anyone ever had a bolt snap?

[abduln]

I wouldn't apply heat to the assembly, it won't help anyway.

If the wheel turns, just have a friend step on the brake pedal hard. There is a special tool that Automotion used to sell, I assume PP now sells it. It is basically a piece of steel plate with a hole cut out for the nut, and one for a breaker bar. You use it like a socket, however it also has a couple of flats on it with which you hammer on with a sledge hammer; that will knock the nut loose, but even then you might need a cheeter bar.

I found that if I used a drop forged breaker bar (don't use an extruded one, it'll bend like a pretzel), a socket, and the handle off of my two ton floor jack as a cheater, and a friend, I could get the nut off without much of a problem. The friend steps on the brake pedal, and you stand on the cheater bar. If you stand on the bar, be careful in case the socket slips off the nut.

The first time I did this on my friends VW bus, I used a Craftsman extruded breaker bar and a cheater bar. I positioned the bar so it was levered against the ground. He got in the bus, started it up and began to drive forward; we just wanted to break the nut loose and that's it. Well the nut didn't budge and the van went forward, the breaker bar gave and bent up into a tiny little coil. The Sears guy looked at the tool in a puzzled manner and let us upgrade to a forged breaker bar. The VW nut's max torque is "only" 180 lbs, the 924's almost 100 lbs higher, yikes.

Abdul

[Diesel]

Here's the end-all fix, no room for error. Go to Sears, buy a compressor and an Ingersoll-Rand IR-2131 impact wrench. No more wierd leverage issues, just put the socket on the nut and press the button.

[numbers]

I use a 3/4 inch breaker bar and a socket from my truck socket set, and a long piece of plastic plumbing pipe. You do not have to worry about breaking anything, it is designed for 250 foot pounds of torque. However, you will probably not be able to find a torque wrench big enough to reinstall the nut to the proper torque. So, I recommend that you mark the position of the nut on the axel with paint prior to removal, and then just reinstall it with the same tools to the original position.

[JvGinPDX]

Abduin does it the way I did. The 36mm adapter you hammer on can be purchased at shops that sell parts for the air-cooled VWs.
The part cost about 20 dollars. That part and a 5 pound sledge hammer gets things done.

[Joes924]

Go by the tire shop,

[SpiNko]

The fisrt time I took mine off, they were so tight that even using an oxy-acetylene torch and a 10 foot cheater bar didnt work. we (shop class back in highschoool) eventually made a rig that bolted to the drum (to preventing it from turning) that was against the floor and then used heat and the cheater bar. they castle nuts were so tight that it acctually chewed up the first 1/3 of the threads on the spindle. needless to say, i can get them off easy-as-pie now.

[924RACR]

Then they're too loose, which is causing your vibration noise. They need to be brutally tight.

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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
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