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!tom
Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1934 Location: Victoria, BC Canada
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Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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kcoyle wrote: | ...one should not get too crazy with the cheeze whiz (torch) heating the caliper hold down wire too much... |
I don't see the point in using a torch at all anywhere in these procedures. _________________ 78 924 NA
5-lug |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11724 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:22 am Post subject: |
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Alternative to paint, zinc plating:
_________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
Last edited by Rasta Monsta on Fri Dec 16, 2011 3:41 am; edited 1 time in total |
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9xx
Joined: 18 Jun 2006 Posts: 627 Location: Jarvenpaa, Finland
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Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 3:39 am Post subject: |
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Hey that is nice! I put mine into a homemade citric acid bath. Interestingly, under all that heavy rust there was still some factory zinc coating present as you see in the picture. I'm just going paint the calipers black and install some new seals, so they'll be good enough.
_________________ Mikko
All gone: 931 '82 Alpine White, original option "220" G31 with LSD + 3 x 944 |
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9xx
Joined: 18 Jun 2006 Posts: 627 Location: Jarvenpaa, Finland
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:25 am Post subject: |
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Done!
_________________ Mikko
All gone: 931 '82 Alpine White, original option "220" G31 with LSD + 3 x 944 |
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musicalannette
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 413 Location: UK
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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:59 pm Post subject: Nice Post |
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Really really nice post, brilliant step by step guide, thanks for taking the time. Just thought you might like to know, if you can find some rubber grease (bright red in colour) and very lightly coat the piston seals in it it will stop the piston from sticking if the car is left for a while, also if you apply castrol ph grease between the seal and the dust boot, should the boot fail or perish, or if the car is left standing for a long time, this again stops caliper from becoming "sticky". Good castrol PH grease is now hard to come by in the UK (European Commision stating what we can and can't have!), it used to be calcium based and this is the type you really want, the later is Lime based, it still works but does not sit on the shelf for too long without seperating (good for castrol but not for me!). _________________ I KNEW white wall tyres were invented by Americans .....just not at Boeing.... to be fitted on the 737..... |
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knqst
Joined: 10 Apr 2015 Posts: 1 Location: Nottingham
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Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="kcoyle"]Excellent writeup. I'm in the middle of it now and would like to add that one should not get too crazy with the cheeze whiz (torch) heating the caliper hold down wire too much or you will wind up with this.
[img]http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g358/kcoyle02/103_0611-1.jpg[/img]
$40.23 for two new wires. :oops:[/quote]
Exact same has happened to me! Does anyone know where I can get new caliper hold down wires?
-Kyle |
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kcoyle
Joined: 15 Jan 2011 Posts: 712 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 3:48 am Post subject: |
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Got them at the dealership.
_________________ 1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it. |
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Harhmless
Joined: 09 Sep 2015 Posts: 14 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:56 am Post subject: |
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Can anyone confirm that this process will or will not work on the rear calipers as well? _________________ 1980 931 (US) - Elise |
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geoffbradley
Joined: 15 May 2015 Posts: 5 Location: Basingstoke
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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I have used this process to break drown the rear callipers on my 924s and found it really helpful.
To answer the query on why you need to have the piston aligned at 20 degeee the cut out is to make the brake pad hit the leading edge first so it won't squeel. Kind of like setting brake pads on a bicycle. If it isn't set correctly you will end up wearing out one end of the pad prematurely. |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11724 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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Similar to rears, but rears have a maddening plastic slider. _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Mags
Joined: 03 May 2016 Posts: 3 Location: VA, USA
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 3:47 am Post subject: Base model 924 brake parts |
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Does anyone have a link to the brake parts needed for a base model 924 with 4 lugs and drums in the rear?
I cannot find the pins/springs and even finding the seals to rebuild the calipers is iffy.
Any links or advise will be greatly appreciated! _________________ Sean & Seth
'81 Gold 924 Base model
Restoration Project |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11724 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 5:30 am Post subject: |
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Not to be a pain, but have you considered converting to four wheel disc? It makes for a cheap and effective upgrade. _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Mags
Joined: 03 May 2016 Posts: 3 Location: VA, USA
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 5:41 am Post subject: |
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Rasta Monsta wrote: | Not to be a pain, but have you considered converting to four wheel disc? It makes for a cheap and effective upgrade. |
Not seriously yet... but it's not out of the question. _________________ Sean & Seth
'81 Gold 924 Base model
Restoration Project |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11724 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 9:46 am Post subject: |
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Whew. If I may use a cliche, it is indeed a "no brainer." _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Mags
Joined: 03 May 2016 Posts: 3 Location: VA, USA
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 11:36 am Post subject: |
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Rasta Monsta wrote: | Whew. If I may use a cliche, it is indeed a "no brainer." |
Uh, no. The car is enough of a project without swapping out the entire braking system and hubs and wheels! I just need the car to stop! _________________ Sean & Seth
'81 Gold 924 Base model
Restoration Project |
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