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[bacook]

I am going to paint my car in my garage soon and need some recommendations and sources for paint. I have a compressor, spray gun, and air filter/regulator. The car is currently red and I want to paint it silver inside and out. As this is for a track car, I am not going for concours quality, rather 10 foot appeal. I want to do a sprayover and would rather use one of the single application products with no primer required. I think base/clearcoat will be overkill. Economy is a key factor as well.
What type and what brand of paint should I use? I will do a wetsand before I spray, but is there anything else I should do to create a solid, no chipping job?

[Diesel]

Do you have a bodyshop supply store nearby? Tell them what you told us. They know more than all of us put together. Saying that, I used PPG EVERYTHING. Turned out nicely.

[bacook]

I actually painted a car many years ago using PPG and it came out fine. However, paint technology seems to change annually and I wanted to know what new formulations there are today. What PPG system did you use? I think I used Delstar or something like that. There's also Sherwin Williams, Devoe, and a few other brands. Anyone have experience with these?

[bacook]

BTW: how do you like your jetta TDI? How does it compare to the 1.8T?

[AznDrgn]

I reccomend one of the Dupont systems but if you want to save some money spies hecker (not sure of the spelling) will work pretty well. I don't believe either manufacturer reccomends not using a primer coat but that is your call. Just remember cleanliness is key the cleaner the car is the better stuff sticks and the longer it will last so spend some extra time in preparation. Also don't mix systems use one brand and one system and stick with it.


Good Luck

[AznDrgn]

I don't believe you really need to wet sand you just need to scuff the surface some so it isn't shiny anymore. About the paints like the post before said goto a paint supply store and tell then what you want to do and they'll tell you what the best thing to use would be. If you go Dupont I think you would be looking at the Chroma one system.

[BlueJayFan]

Well, glad you asked. I actually work as a paint rep for a living (somebody's got to do it). I would recommend a sealer/primer if you have any kind of imperfections in the paint you want to hide. Paint itself has poor adhesion properties and relies on the primer or sealer to establish a base. A single-stage paint would be your least expensive route.
What paint to use? If you're painting in a garage and only care what it looks like going down the road then it doesn't really matter. Use a fast set-up speed hardener so your paint isn't laying wet forever and gathering dirt, dust and overspray.
Use a 600-1000 grit for your wet sand before sealing or painting.
Good Luck!! (PS- Spies Hecker is Original paint on Porsche)

[wdb]

if you see dust or dirt on the drying paint,dont touch it,let the paint dry and set,you can rub it off then,other wise you will leave finger prints and smudges in the finnish.
hey BlueJayFan,maybe you can answer a question for me. Ive heard that japan dryer is good to add to paint,does it do anything special or is it there personal preference.

[ This Message was edited by: wdb on 2002-02-23 15:05 ]

[Diesel]

[MixMaster K]

If you're going to do a metallic color such as silver, you don't want to use a single-stage paint. Go with the base/clear. If you use the single-stage and aren't experienced enough with painting, you'll end up with something we call "zebra stripes" where the paint has dark and light lines alternating in the paint. This is due to the incorrect coverage and settling of the aluminum flake in the paint application. Using a base/clear system gives you more control over the metallics. Base/clear jobs are always easier to repair and blend out as well.

Kris

[BlueJayFan]

wdb,
I haven't heard specifically of "japan" dryer, but I assume it's some kind of dry-thru accelerator reducer. This is actually a good product to add to your clear mix if you've got low temps (under 60) or limited air flow. It helps the hardened product dry at a faster rate, but makes it tougher to buff since it dries rock hard.

[wdb]

being harder and taking longer to polish,does that mean a higher luster can be achieved and it will last longer because it is harder.or does it just require more work,with no particular benefit ?

[wdb]

this is the best paint info site I've found,with links to top paint makers.there are others in this section,further down if you want need more detailed info
http://www.autorefinish.com/Selector/Products/bodyprep/page1/bodymain.htm#Body

[BlueJayFan]

wdb, bingo. I would say NO added benefit outside of making it dry fast enough. Nobody I know likes to spend days buffing a rock hard paint job to attain better gloss. Plus there are always drawbacks to speeding a product up instead of letting it dry naturally.

[numbers]

So, who has had the best luck with color match? What brand and type of paint did you use? I want to re-do the hood this year, but am worried about getting a good match.