924Board.org

[924martinirossi]

I've kept the 931 and stripped it. It is being currently lightned and set up for rally and Autocross. The SOLO II looks nice also. What I need are race parts. If other members have anything to sell/swap please let me know. The car is progressing fairly good.

Michael
http://members.rennlist.com/924martinirossi/

[924RACR]

It might help if you had an idea as to what you are looking for...

I'd say (for rally use, not that I know), use maybe 200% stiffer springs, but plan on really putting your money in heavy-duty, durable shocks, since that will really keep you going. Something that will last forever, and is designed for off-road use. Check out Bilsteins, and look for increased stroke. That and a well-built custom cage. Wouldn't hurt to seam-weld the can, too.

Raising the car should be easy; biggest problem will be keeping decent geometry up front, thanks to the strut suspension. Are you allowed to relocate suspension mounting points and change suspension geometry?

Also think about reinforcing the suspension arms, and the attachment points by tying into the cage structure.

_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[924martinirossi]

Alright help me out here. What are the rules for the rollcage? Should I go with ERW or DOM material?

See: http://www.ioportracing.com/faqs.htm

Michael

This baby is gona race this year!

[wdb]

If your gonna auto X in a parking lot through cones,get the cheapest cage they have. If your gonna be rallying in the rainforest,at 70 MPH in the mud between those big old trees,get the heavy gauge crome-moly, if you dont know yet,get the best you can afford or wait till you know, If you have never been in a serious accident,the violence of it ,is incomprehensible.the crash cage is not the place to save money. I dont know how the seats are installed,but I would suggest attaching the seats to a crossbar welded to the cage,you want to stay with the cage,not the sheet metal floor pan,shlt happens

[ This Message was edited by: wdb on 2002-01-26 06:25 ]

[924RACR]

I second all of what wdb says above. Here's the _minimum_ allowed specs for the 924 cage per SCCA rules (to which my car is constructed): must be DOM mild steel 1.5"OD x 0.120"thk or 1.75"OD x 0.095"thk. ERW is not as strong, just get DOM.

I've just turned over my car for substantial improvements and cross-bracing to be added to the cage. I can pass on details if desired. I do recommend highly that we chat before you spend a penny on a cage. Basic recommendation is to find a good custom cage fabricator in your area (meaning good race shop that can show good work) and pay them to build you a custom cage. Budget around $2k. That's what I've spent by now making my bolt-in cage half as safe as a custom cage.

I have a lot to relate about the best way to tie in to the structure on a 924

_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[924martinirossi]

I would bet that a roll cage that is bolted to the factory seatbelt points and welded elsewhere would be the way to go. I just can't picture a welded or bolt on for that matter just attached to thin sheet metal.

Keep the info comming.

Will be on track soon.

Michael

[John H]

With your roll cage welding or bolting to the seat belt mounting points is really only to stiffen the car.
Any race shop should be able to advise where to fasten the cage. I assume in America your sporting bodies you going to race under have guidelines for the cages.
Any competent shop should be able to make a cage and as a guide if you’re bolting or welding to the floor you should be using plates to spread the load over a larger area. With my roll protection we have welded the bases onto the “sill” area and at the rear into the rails. All the bases have large plates that spread the load into the shell and in the case of the main uprights behind n the drive the plate spreads the load vertical and horizontally into the body shell.

As Vaughan has said you can use the cage to stiffen r the shell. We have used tags welded to the cage to tie it to the shell in a couple of places – seat belt points on the door pillars. But have mainly used the design to add strength to the shell.

As they say about helmets – if you’ve got a $50 head buy a $50 helmet – the same applies with the roll cage – if you don’t think you’re life is worth much don’t spend much on the cage.
As a minimum I recommend a hoop over the driver, braces back into the trunk area and then intrusion bars down the sides of the doors. This will stiffen the car up and provide a reasonable amount of driver protection.

[wdb]

other things to consider,tinkering and adjusting settings with the car running an open exhaust system may be disturbing to family and neighbors,maybe install a valve to direct exhaust to muffler or to open pipe or save your muffler and hose clamp it on when necessary. take a walk through your locale scrap metal recycler,there is pipe,angle iron,plate,aluminum,stainless,copper that you can buy from them. with a caron fiber cut off blade in a circular saw, a small oxy/acetaline torch, and a cheap welding machine, and sand blaster,you can make some of the expensive items you might need, Aframe , to mount a chain pully or cumalong to ,to lift engine or end of car for repairs and mods, trailer ,you can rent these for a few hours and measure every thing and copy the design.hitches ,tow ball,lights, wiring harness and axles for trailerx ,can be purchased at UHAUL.

[ This Message was edited by: wdb on 2002-01-28 19:31 ]

[Joes924]

summit racing makes a muffler cutout that works like what your sayen wdb.. doesnt cost much either.

_________________
JoeD. 1979 924NA
MSD6 rev control/big bore TB/P&P.head
Bursche header/Schneider cam/dialcam
Motor currently in pieces.


[ This Message was edited by: Joes924 on 2002-09-08 07:21 ]