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Audi shift lever refurb

 
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:05 am    Post subject: Audi shift lever refurb Reply with quote

The shifter for Audi-based gearboxes has a pin that wears to an egg shape over time.
As it wears, the lever feels sloppier and eventually shifting into reverse becomes difficult.

The fix involves cutting off the old worn pin,
drilling and tapping for an M10x1.5 partially threaded bolt,
grinding down the head of the bolt some,
drilling-tapping the edge of the lever for a setscrew,
and reassembly with threadlocker.

showing worn, egg-shaped pin and a 10mm bolt -


shifter after the worn pin was cut off and the area ground flat -


using a drill press to get a clean, straight hole (a slightly undersize bit was used) -


starting the tapping with the same setup, but with the drill having been replaced by the tap -
now the drill press is powered by hand for a few turns to start the tap in straight -


finished the tapping with a T-handle -




found a partially-threaded M10x1.50x50mm bolt and went with it instead of the fully threaded version -


miscellaneous width and length details -


the edge of the shifter was later drilled & tapped for a small setscrew to immobilize the M10 bolt -


used a short piece of re-bar to hammer on while reinstalling the lever -


the shifter boot got some attention while I was in the area -



the original topic on it - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=14560
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox


Last edited by Smoothie on Tue Sep 04, 2007 8:54 am; edited 3 times in total
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a modification like this awhile back (read 5-6 years) and the bolt I replaced the pin with eventually worn the shift rod down enough that I had more slop in my shift than before.

To fix this I machined a new peice out of mild steel that would fit skate board bearings(608z), cut the end off the old shift rod, installed(welded) my new machined peice, pressed some bearings into it, and reassembled. Now when things wear out, I can just replace whatever did (bearings or bolt) Its all very very tight now.

Just gotta upgrade the linkage on the tranny now.

Min
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Jakkq  



Joined: 29 Sep 2008
Posts: 810
Location: Omaha, Nebraska

PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew there was some reason It took 5 minutes to get into reverse the other day! Damn. I'll have to look into this idea. Thanks for this information.

How do I get down to getting the shifter out? Maybe I'm just missing it.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe the '79 comes with the Snailshell transmission, which is different than the Audi unit described here, complete with different shift linkages.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Min wrote:
I did a modification like this awhile back (read 5-6 years) and the bolt I replaced the pin with eventually worn the shift rod down enough that I had more slop in my shift than before.

To fix this I machined a new peice out of mild steel that would fit skate board bearings(608z), cut the end off the old shift rod, installed(welded) my new machined peice, pressed some bearings into it, and reassembled. Now when things wear out, I can just replace whatever did (bearings or bolt) Its all very very tight now.

Just gotta upgrade the linkage on the tranny now.

Min


Pics? Both bits are worn on mine.

For bearings in the UK I have used simplybearings.co.uk
very very good site with all bearings in all sizes.

I have replaced the plastic blcok on the tranny with ali bar drilled out but I couldn't find a decently priced 15mm reamer so there is still a bit of slop sadly. I'll make another one day....
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich H wrote:
Pics? Both bits are worn on mine.


I suppose I could open it up and take some pictures, I need a better camera, there is alot of goodies I need to take pictures of.

Min
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, here are the pictures I promised, I notice people are still replacing their shifter pins with bolts, because the bolt material is much harder than the rest of the shift linkage it accelerates wear. The below pictures are the solution.



All bolted together, the way its been since I installed it. I have not had to do any maintenance on this at all since I put it in (years ago). This is the first time its been apart.



First bearing revealed. As you can see its been pressed in. (which was done on the car using a C clamp)



Here is the hole I threaded into the shifter. I threaded this, and also used a nylock nut on the other side to act as a jam nut and a lock nut, it did not come loose at all since I installed it, and it was still very tight when I took it apart for pictures.



The other side, I cut off the bolt because I didn't have one the right length at the time. When installed I used some large washers between the shifter and the bearings on both sides, so that if the washers wore I could just replace them. I made this piece on my lathe, and then welded it in place while the shift rod was in the car (welding looks like crap, didn't intend to show it to anyone and the mig used wasn't very nice).

Min
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, better late than never!
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

:p

Min
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KDJones2000  



Joined: 14 Sep 2010
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Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This fix has been around since 2003, and is an inexpensive fix that can easily be renewed if the bushings wear out:

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm

You can actually do this entirely inside of the car, just pull the rod up enough to drill it out above your console.

I did this on my car, and it's been great for the past 3 or so years.

Cheers, Keith
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KDJones2000 wrote:
You can actually do this entirely inside of the car, just pull the rod up enough to drill it out above your console.


In my case the pin in the lever had already gone oblong shaped and in the process had made a mess of the shifter rod. Your suggestion is good if things aren't totally goofed by the time you open it up.

Min
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PopUpProject  



Joined: 06 Aug 2025
Posts: 31
Location: NE Ohio

PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2025 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KDJones2000 wrote:
This fix has been around since 2003, and is an inexpensive fix that can easily be renewed if the bushings wear out:

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm

You can actually do this entirely inside of the car, just pull the rod up enough to drill it out above your console.

I did this on my car, and it's been great for the past 3 or so years.

Cheers, Keith


Very sad this link is dead because I will be working on my sloppy shifter here shortly with some new shifter arm hardware and linkage arm. But between the above posts and the instructions on only944 I *think* I'll be able to figure it out.
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