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Looking for any turbo removal tips
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 2309
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only fire rings I have used in 10yrs is the head to manifold ones. Any other fire rings downstream have never been used, just new/recent gaskets and a light coat of v high temp sealant. Up until now I have found new gaskets for all joints available from Porsche.
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
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Beartooth  



Joined: 05 Apr 2022
Posts: 206
Location: Roberts, MT

PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2022 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been digging this week, trying to get the turbo back in, and it's nothing but details, details, details! I've got pretty much everything cleaned up (naturally, the wastegate was a grimy mess), and I had to repair some pieces and fabricate a new mounting plate for the wastegate. I'm not sure when or how that broke, but it definitely had some miles put on it after it broke: the edges of the broken piece were worn smooth, and the flat section on the wastegate that it bolts to has wear to it.



I also fixed up the oil return line. I took it to a shop in Billings that specializes in hoses and hydraulics, and had the rubber portion replaced (I did the same with the oil cooler lines, and the line going to the oil pan from the breather can). The tab that retains the vent line was also broken, so I cut up the broken wastegate mount and welded that on to create an eyelet. The positioning probably isn't perfect, but hopefully I can tweak it in place without breaking anything. You'll also notice a very boogery weld attaching the line going to the head to the little expansion can. That was obviously broken at some point, and the weld is poor even by the standards of what I'm capable of, but it seems to be sealed, and it's out of sight anyway.





I also decided to insulate the oil feed line. Unfortunately, I thought about flushing it out after I'd already finished that. I could have soaked it in my carb dip; I ended up sucking some of that through it without getting the outside wet, and it released some significant gunk (stuff that blowing brake cleaner through it didn't touch). I may be overthinking it, but the information sheet that came with the rebuilt turbo actually recommend replacing the oil feed line, and certainly, if there's any hard debris in the line, it could damage my nice rebuilt turbo. Surprisingly, that's showing on Pelican Parts... for $600. That's more than it cost to rebuild the turbo; think I'll keep flushing and hope for the best. Finally, and I didn't get a picture of the end product, but I double-wrapped it to get as much insulation as possible. I first wrapped it with some one-inch header wrap, then pulled some reflective heat sleeve material over that. This is what I used: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010917. I got the one-inch diameter material, but would go smaller if I had it to do again. They offer the same thing in 3/4", but I was concerned I wouldn't be able to slip it over the banjo end. Judging by how much slack there was around that, 3/4" would have worked fine.



On the turbine outlet gasket, I didn't try ordering the Porsche gasket. It may well be available; the aftermarket Victor gasket definitely isn't in stock anywhere I could find. I didn't want to pay $50 and wait for the flange-type gasket. The ring-type shows as readily available, but still a little pricey at $30. So, since I was ordering some stuff from Summit anyway, I decided to try this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-1439g. I'm not sure how it'd work without the old sealing ring (that's right where the raised lip lands), but I've still got that, and so I'm going to try it. Also, the bolt circle is smaller, so you'll have to enlarge those holes (I used s stepped drill bit).

Otherwise, I've got the manifold back on. I ended up salvaging some studs I'd planned to replace; it turns out certain online catalogs are wrong there, you want 35mm and not 25mm studs (the 25mm studs I got would have only had a couple threads engaged, and that with no washers). I also, decided to go with stage 8 fasteners for the exhaust manifold and turbine outlet. Don't bother with the turbo kit they sell with only four - for another $10, you can get a set of 10, and have enough for the manifold to wastegate joint and a couple other things. I'm not sure about the availability of the manifold to wastegate pipe gasket - that's another one that I placed an order for but that never materialized. I bought an extra manifold gasket a while back because I noticed the bolt hole spacing was the same. I had to enlarge the holes, and the pipe that protrudes from the flange is slightly larger than the opening on that gasket, but by beveling that and pushing the pipe and manifold together, you can get it to stretch over. I also ended up making my own intermediate ring. 1-5/8 pipe fits almost perfectly, so that's what I used. The tricky part is getting it cut square, and the question of how long. It's around 11mm with the flange-type gasket, but I trimmed it to have just a little clearance, given that I used stainless pipe, and that's got a higher thermal expansion coefficient. I didn't go so far that it was a loose fit - I can't imagine having it rattling around would do any good. I'd definitely prefer to have the Porsche part, but I can't see why my solution would do more harm than good. Definitely use you own judgement there: I think the intermediate ring is a good idea to smooth flow and keep heat out of the flange, but a loose-fitting one might wear into the manifold or turbine inlet.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2609
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you looking at the correct part for the turbo flange seal ring? Costs about 9usd over here.

Those wg brackets are very often cracked, simple to do new ones tough

I'm about to tighten up my hot side parts aswell, probably this weekend.
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Beartooth  



Joined: 05 Apr 2022
Posts: 206
Location: Roberts, MT

PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2022 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We'll have to see who finishes first - it's a race! The seal in question is 944.111.205.02, for the turbine outlet. It's about $30 from Pelican Parts here; might be a few bucks cheaper elsewhere. But for $12, I figure there's not much to lose on the one I'm trying, especially since it's not terrible to get to if it leaks. Part of what's taking me so long is making sure I have the best pieces I can get before I button it up. I REALLY don't want to mess with that turbo again - although if I do, there should be a lot less hassle.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2609
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2022 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beartooth wrote:
We'll have to see who finishes first - it's a race! The seal in question is 944.111.205.02, for the turbine outlet. It's about $30 from Pelican Parts here; might be a few bucks cheaper elsewhere. But for $12, I figure there's not much to lose on the one I'm trying, especially since it's not terrible to get to if it leaks. Part of what's taking me so long is making sure I have the best pieces I can get before I button it up. I REALLY don't want to mess with that turbo again - although if I do, there should be a lot less hassle.


Sorry i misread there, the tubine outlet is definitely more expensive, i think i even reused mine there, at least once. The pressure is very low there and its not so critical since it can be changed afterwards. When it comes to the other stuff you think correctly, if you do it properly it will will not give you any more issues, at least thats my experience.

I just test mounted all my parts, had to do some more machining on the turbo mount, fire rings, and oil drain adjustment since the exhaust manfold flange was machined flat, the tolerances are small for anything to be out of spec Next up put the gaskets in and to the tightening procedure
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