924Board.org

[poor-sche]

For those of you that have replaced the water pump while the engine was still in the car, did you use the supplied gasket or did use gasket maker? I can’t seem to make enough room between the engine block and the tab on the control line. The pump barely fits in the space without the gasket; trying with the gasket is an exercise in futility. If I go with gasket maker, I’m afraid it’s going to scrape off when I squeeze it into place. I hate to think the solution is to cut off the tab.


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1980 - 931

[MOTANUL]

I use the supplied gasket (very thin). I put it with great care and attention. It can break very easily. Try putting a little grease and two screws to hold the gasket in the correct position.

I also ordered new screws (the old ones were quite rusty).
Not all were the right length. So I mounted an old screw because the new one was too long and did not tighten. The rest were good.
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1980 Porsche 924 Turbo (931) diamond silver metallic/helios blue metallic
sold Porsche 924 NA 1979

[bureau13]

I also used the supplied gasket. It took some fiddling but I got it in OK.

[poor-sche]

I can barely get it place without the gasket, but I'll give it another shot. Maybe I can get someone to pry the control line away from the block while I squeeze it in.

Is it just me or do jobs that appear easy at first glance always end up being much more difficult with this car. Things always seem to get hung up by a couple of millimeters. One component or another is always in the way of the next; much more so than any other car I've wrenched on.
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1980 - 931

[Fasteddie313]

Ideas would be gluing the gasket to the WP before install, and maybe just bending that tab out 1/4"..
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

[924RACR]

I definitely recommend against removing the tab. Knowing these cars, there WILL be a vibration problem and things will break. Otherwise the engineers would not have put a tab there.

Great opportunity to remove that control line and replace the hose ends on it.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Carrera RSR]

Disconnect the pipe at the turbo end? May give you more wriggle room?
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
Now www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=34690
Then www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=31252

[morghen]

Use victor reintz black silicone to keep the gasket on the pump, easy peasy.
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https://www.the924.com

[924RACR]

I get it with using RTV to hold the gasket in place, but I will almost as an aside mention that I generally prefer to soak these type of gaskets - the paper fiber type - with oil to get the fibers to swell up - prior to install. While they sure won't hold in place much... disassembly becomes a breeze, they won't leak still, and there's no cleanup required after disassembly, they can often even be reused. This is big for us on the intake manifold and cam cover gaskets, on the racecar, when we want to remove and reinstall those somewhat frequently...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[K-Roll931]

I used the supplied gasket with a wee amount of oil to swell it up some. It was a challenge, but I stuck two bolts through the pump and gasket to guide it in, and spent a while trying to get everything to line up.

I succeeded and haven't had any leaks. It's the easiest water pump I'll ever change.
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'80 931 M471 - Dolomite Gray -> Monaco Blue

[poor-sche]

Decided to go with gluing the gasket to the block with a high-tack gasket sealant. Let it set overnight. All seemed well, the gasket was on good and tight. When installing the pump, it was a very tight fit. My fears came to fruition when coolant started leaking during filling. Leaked right from the bolt hole with the tab. Took it back apart, and sure enough, it looks like the gasket had shifted and was torn when I inserted the bolt. If you look at the closeup below, you can see where the “glue” was squeezed out. Don’t know if there’s something weird about my particular car or I’m just much worse at wrenching than I thought. Either way, I’m just going to remove the tab.




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1980 - 931

[924RACR]

It's gonna vibrate and break elsewhere. Take the tube off at one end.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Carrera RSR]

If you remove the tab the pipe will vibrate, crack or wear a hole in itself. Then you have a massive boost leak you cannot locate without tearing the motor down. I will be the last place to look. As said before, remove the rubber elbow at the turbo end to give you more wriggle room.
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
Now www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=34690
Then www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=31252

[TJC]

I must agree that the tab should not be removed.
Generally engineers and designers have valid reasons for making a part the way they do...even though those of us who work on the beasts later would like to wring their necks for doing such devious things.
This is one of those "do it right now or do it again later" jobs. And good luck finding a replacement tube with an intact tab when you need one.
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'95 BMW 318i/5 ..."Pearl"
'87 Porsche 944 NA... "Liebchen"
'02 Porsche Boxster..."Sunbeam"
'04 BMW X3..."Xander"
Still on the Prowl!

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