924Board.org

[ted von Kampen]

My 1981 Porsche 924 has finally hit the road after 17 years of not moving. I drove it down the street today. I have done lots of work over the last 2 years on the car. I have no idea if it worked before. However when I drove it today for the first time, the speedo cable made lots of noise in the cable sheath and the needle bounced a lot but did generally work. While I had the left front wheel and brakes apart I recall seeing the cable and the attach points. Also when I had the dash apart the speedo was disconnected for about a year.

My questions are:
Does the speedo cable come out from the wheel end of the cable or the dash end? I realize the "C" clip must be removed.

Is there any good way to lubricate the cable from the wheel end so I don't have to pull the speedo from the dash. It was a pain to reinstall so not wanting to do that again.

I also will try repositioning the cable route, however after sitting so long I suspect the cable has dried out or the lube has hardened.

I searched the forum for this topic but found nothing specific to my question.
Any help would be appreciated. ...Ted

[Carrera RSR]

Cable cannot be removed from outer. If its making some noise and bouncing the needle, its probably close to snapping already. £20 gets a new one. Drizzle in some sticky bike chain oil in over a day or two. I've snapped 3 cables in 9yrs!!!
_________________
1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
Now www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=34690
Then www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=31252

[ted von Kampen]

Thanks for the info. I was afraid that I had to do it from the dash side. Fun, Fun. I did drive it a few miles this morning and it is getting better. At about 40MPH it does settle down a bit.
Ted

[daniel]

Hi
I work on speedo's and speedo cables for a living.
Only ever use wheel bearing grease, using anything thinner will work its way into the speedo and inhabit the very small space between the speedo's magnet and drag cup. Even 'thick' oil will thin out when it gets hot and still climb up the cable as it spins.
_________________
Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet

[ted von Kampen]

Thanks for the information. I have used chassis lube before except in the winter it gets very stiff until it warms up.

[mikeycrum14]

Honestly ATF works super great. I used it in mine before I sold it and had 3k miles of smooth nearly-bounce less speedo use.
_________________
1981 924 - Alpine White, First car! LSD. - SOLD
1989 Foxbody - Oxford White Turd
1992 Miata - Freaking Red
1987 300zx Turbo - Also White
1991 Miata - White field find
1987 924S - Alpine White, Offroader Build, possible future TDI swap

[ted von Kampen]

Thank you all for your input. I wondered if the ATF was not the way to go. I have both ends of the cable free. I found like someone said that you cannot remove the cable from the sheath so any lubing will have to be done from the head end and use gravity to let it come down. Am I correct or wrong on this? I think if I use a hyperdermic needle & syringe I can inject is slowly from the top. When I pulled the left front wheel I noticed the circlip was gone. The square end is still poking through grease cup. It was there when I repacked the wheels bearings so it must This car sat for 15yrs so when I drove it the cable was noisy and the needle bounced. I drove the speedo head with a drill and it operates smoothly so the cable must be the problem. Any comments on how to lube the cable??

Also, in case the cable lube does not solve the problem does any know where the replacement cable& sheath can be bought?

Comments appreciated.
Ted

[ted von Kampen]

Thank you all for your input. I wondered if the ATF was not the way to go. I have both ends of the cable free. I found like someone said that you cannot remove the cable from the sheath so any lubing will have to be done from the head end and use gravity to let it come down. Am I correct or wrong on this? I think if I use a hyperdermic needle & syringe I can inject is slowly from the top. When I pulled the left front wheel I noticed the circlip was gone. The square end is still poking through grease cup. It was there when I repacked the wheels bearings so it must This car sat for 15yrs so when I drove it the cable was noisy and the needle bounced. I drove the speedo head with a drill and it operates smoothly so the cable must be the problem. Any comments on how to lube the cable??

Also, in case the cable lube does not solve the problem does any know where the replacement cable& sheath can be bought?

Comments appreciated.
Ted

[mikeycrum14]

Mine had a 10$ aftermarket cable kit from autozone put on it and I snapped my speedo so I just lubed it when I replaced the cable. I would say squirter some ATF down the top AFTER you have made sure there are no holes in the sleeve. If you have holes then the ATF won't last. I patched my holes, put ATF in, and drive for like 2k miles with no problem before I sold my car.

There is that weird catalytic converter box thing that I don't know if you can pull the cable out of. Mine was removed and bypassed by crimping a small square brass tube over the ends of the two cables.

I would say pull the cable housing, inspect and patch or replace if you must. Then flush with ATF repeatedly to thoroughly lube the cable. Then reistall and see how it goes.

Do a thorough inspection of your speedometer gears while it's out just to be safe. A worn gear can jam the speedo and snap the cable. I've done it.
_________________
1981 924 - Alpine White, First car! LSD. - SOLD
1989 Foxbody - Oxford White Turd
1992 Miata - Freaking Red
1987 300zx Turbo - Also White
1991 Miata - White field find
1987 924S - Alpine White, Offroader Build, possible future TDI swap