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MSDS header Problem

 
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1227
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:07 am    Post subject: MSDS header Problem Reply with quote

I havet a, used, never installed MSDS(I think) header and an installation problem. On cylinder #4 between the tight curve of the pipe and the cast iron fin of the motor mount there isn't enough room to get a wrench in to tighten the bottom exhaust flange bolt. It appears that the best way to resolve it is to take off the motor mount and remove a bit of the cast iron fin.

Any comments on this??
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Mike


'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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Fifty50Plus  



Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 1353
Location: Washington DC area

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that's what I did.
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1979 924 NA race car
1982 924 NA race car - Sold
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1227
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick reply, I've taken the header off and am about to go out after the motor hoist. Two steps forward-one step back.
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Mike


'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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Mike9311  



Joined: 14 Dec 2004
Posts: 1678
Location: Chicago-ish

PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you guys post a pic of this?
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1227
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't as is now buried under the header. Basically there is a vertical rib on the firewall side of the top of the cast iron motor mount that interferes with the bottom nut for th cylinder #4 flange. I used a hacksaw to cut off the rib to just below the center of the bolt hole where it bolts to the block. The cast iron is easy to cut with a hack saw.

There is also a bolt flange close to the center of the curved cast iron arm. It is pointed forward. It needs to be sawn off due to pipe interference.

There is a second bolt flange down toward the bottom, it does not need to be removed(for MSDS), I tried to bend up a heat shield to fasten there, but after about 4 hours of tinkering I had to abandon it as the 8mm bolt only can go in from the bottom and I couldn't get a bolt started due to the congestion of pipes.
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'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8794
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I too have a heat shield there, was able to get a bolt in that flange but no it wasn't easy.

I changed over to an allen head screw for the last lower bolt on the header. Still not super-easy to use, but worked better than a nut and stud...
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Vaughan Scott
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometime with headers it's best to gradually tighten the fastener while slight pressure is pulling the header away from the head (rather than snug it up with the fasteners that are easy to access first).
I remember struggling with my header.
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometime with headers it's best to gradually tighten the fastener while slight pressure is pulling the header away from the head (rather than snug it up with the fasteners that are easy to access first).
I remember struggling with my header.
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