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924 Carrera GTS replica tach/boost gauge
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2326
Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's fixed link (stupid FB changes the links):


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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
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gegge  



Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 1124
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just beautiful. Everytime.

Donīt think your friends would like to make second dial?
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Carl Fredrik Torkildsen

924 turbo -81 Carrera GT RESTOMOD
924 turbo -80 Dolomite De Luxe
924 -85 DP kit, BBS RS, M030 and tuned engine
924s -86 Black on black turbo with Fuchs
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2326
Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the UV resistant decals for that. Have them make 10 pcs just in case, there was no price difference.
I have it now in car for more than two years, no fading etc on the dial.

I used 911 speedo needle (it is longer on the opposite side), it is exactly the same as GTS needle and fits well with boost gauge needle and oil pressure and voltmeter needles from 924 S that I use on 924 gauges. I like 924 dials and fonts but 924 S longer needles
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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
http://www.facebook.com/vemsporsche
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Lau Christophersen  



Joined: 17 May 2013
Posts: 108
Location: Denmark/Copenhagen

PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

uh.... that instrument is missing in my 924 Turbo, just in green font to match the rest of the early instruments

Could the VEMS setup I bought from you control this or is it needed to upgrade the VEMS for that?
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76 924 (PARTS)
77 924 (PARTS)
77 924 converted to 924S
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79 931
79 931(PARTS).
79 931 Carrera GT look (PARTS).
79 931 with VEMS and opgrades
81 928S +30 cm widebody kit
82 924 (SOLD)
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2326
Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it can control it but needs a module for the boost gauge.
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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
http://www.facebook.com/vemsporsche
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Jay Wellwood  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 26
Location: Hotlanta (just outside the perimeter)

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So much WIN

Seriously WANT one for my project...
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Jay Wellwood

A couple of Audi's and a few Porsche's
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kondzi  



Joined: 02 Jul 2018
Posts: 485
Location: Poland/EU

PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I decided to go this way, love the look of this tach

Just bought the 944 tach with economiser. Will connect it with MegaSquirt 2, so should be quite straightforward to drive it.
Any hints on pinout / values needed to drive it?

EDIT: What is the real red line for the 931 engine?
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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)
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Jay Wellwood  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 26
Location: Hotlanta (just outside the perimeter)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a great looking tach
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Jay Wellwood

A couple of Audi's and a few Porsche's
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kondzi  



Joined: 02 Jul 2018
Posts: 485
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2021 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And the idea is to make that sweet one out of that one:


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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 529
Location: Belvidere, IL

PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2021 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Dang that is cool...
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Mike9311  



Joined: 14 Dec 2004
Posts: 1678
Location: Chicago-ish

PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2022 4:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dropping this in here since I got a pic of raceboys tach that has the broken link.


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1981 Ideola 931 Club Sport
1982 931 Entwicklungsfahrzeug
1979 924 NA ohne 650 mit 471
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kondzi  



Joined: 02 Jul 2018
Posts: 485
Location: Poland/EU

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone has / knows the name of the font used for the numbers/letters?
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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)
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Eliza  



Joined: 17 Aug 2015
Posts: 174
Location: Prov. Utrecht, The Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2022 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a Truetype font called Eurostile extended.

Eliza
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kondzi  



Joined: 02 Jul 2018
Posts: 485
Location: Poland/EU

PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2022 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got motivated by a different story with a different gauge that needs boost as well (maybe later about that).

I need to sort out how to drive the Economy Hand. As this will take at least few evenings, certainly not in a series, due to different stuff, I'll try to make notes here and post them. If someone has done it, knows something important - please share.

For the time being, wiring diagram for starters:


According to what I have loosely in my head:
- 2 models of 8 pin tach with slightly different wiring
- signals from DME for driving Econo Hand, that include speed (signal from speedometer or wheel?), injectors (opening times), and?
- The drive motor of the Econo hand looks like PWM controlled bi-directional setup used in IAV - just an idea. 3 wires connected, the hand is kind of loose, maybe it's as easy as not using the circuit but connecting with two PWM signals directly to the motor and controlling with them the movement of the hand to the each of directions.
- Read somewhere the hand shows MPG when in move and GPH(Gallon Per Hour) when stationary?


Pins are labelled like below:
1 2 3 Hg
4 5 6 H+

From Rennlist as reference:


Tachs Pins:
1- {Black/Yellow Engine} Speed (ignition) switched +12V
2- {Green or Green/Yellow} Injection Signal (wave) (internal connection to HG)
3- {Gray/Blue} Speedo Hall sensor (wave signal)
4- {Blue/Yellow} Ground , Coolant Temp gauge is feed from this pin
5- {Black Switched} +12V (is internal connection to H+)
6- {Green} Ignition pulse (neg side of coil and typically Green DME Wire #1

Speedometer Connections to Tach:
Hg {Green/Red} Hall sensor Pulse (Square wave 1-6 Volts generated by Hall effect on Front left wheel spinning)
H+ {Black Switched} 12V supplied jump on pin 5 and internal VDO connection to H+


Reference to 924board.


Rennlist #2
- Need of switched +12 (hot side of injector)
- PWM for injecter (GND driven)
- Coil signal / Tach signal

Rennlist #3


924board #2 reference

Rennlist #4

Quote:

It actually uses road speed, from the Hall effect sensor on the back of the speedo, and injection pulse duration from the DME to compute MPG. I have seen video of it's normal operation and at idle it seems to hover around the middle of the range, indicating GPH, then above 20MPH indicates MPG.



TBC[/url]
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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)
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kondzi  



Joined: 02 Jul 2018
Posts: 485
Location: Poland/EU

PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2022 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well there is a red wire that goes to terminal 3 and directly to the center of this semi-motor that moves the Econo Hand. Not sure whether this is a motor or just 2 sets of coils that rotates the shaft just slightly to left or right depending on the signals on the 2 remaining wires (green and white) connected to the coils inside of this semi-motor.

Anyway seems there is inconsistency between the wiring diagram and the description I copied from Rennlist post, which claims terminal 3 goes to speedo hall sensor, which isn't the case in the above diagram. But it looks this diagram is for the other type of the gauge than I have, as it seems the one from the diagram has the upshift light?

Need to search for other diagram....

Found this procedure:

Quote:
From the Factory Service Manual;

"TROUBLESHOOTING THE UPSHIFT INDICATOR"

If the upshift indicator malfunctions, perform same tests as for the economy control.

Additional tests

1. Coolant temperature guage in instrument cluster must be ok. Signal comes from tachometer term. 4 and is sent to the instrument cluster.

2. Term. 6 of tachometer should have the ignition pulse (ingition coil term. 1) with the engine running.

If a defect is not found after troubleshooting the economy control or upshift indicator, check power flow in wires and contact of wires or, if necessary, replace the techometer.

"TROUBLE SHOOTING THE ECONOMY CONTROL"

1. Check voltage on the two pin plug next to the DME control unit
(Square plug for economy control and upshift indicator)
(Round plug for altitude correction box (USA version))

Terminal 1 (black wire) should have battery voltage with ignition turned on

2. Term. 2 of the two pin plug will have the injection signal with the engine running and it can be seen with the help of an oscilloscope. The injection signal is a square wave signal, which increases in width as speed picks up.

3. The tachometer must be removed (plugs remain connected) to measure hall sensor signals in the speedometer. Term. 5 and H+ should have battery voltage with the ignition turned on.

4. Connect voltmeter on term. HG (hall sensor pulse). Lift and turn left front wheel slowly by hand. Voltage should rise and drop four times from less than 1 volt to more than 6 volts for each wheel revolution (square wave pulses)

So, do the Economy Control test first, then do the Upshift Indicator test...if everything is ok after those tests, you need to replace the tach (or live without the Upshift Indicator)

To determine the pins on the back of the tach, remove the tach, and counting the pins from:


LEFT to RIGHT, TOP ROW: 1, 2, 3, HG

LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM ROW: 4, 5, 6, H+


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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)
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