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Peter · Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 379 Location: New York, NY

Here is a pic of the almost complete engine. A few wires & a hose or two needs to be attached. Also, I need to install the wastegate. However, the car is going into hibernation until warmer weather (read: it is to dam cold to work on the car). So by spring the car will be ready. Then comes the roll cage and I will be ready for SCCA & 944 Cup racing. Yeah!

Matias · Joined: 08 Nov 2002 Posts: 30 Location: Argentina

Peter, what`s that aluminium thing you have round you distributor? Is that a aluminum cap?

Lizard · Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2002 3:32 am Post subject:

hey actually that came stock on our cars it is a steel grounding cap
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3 928s,

Matias · Joined: 08 Nov 2002 Posts: 30 Location: Argentina

apparently the previous owner of mine has change the distributor cap, I`ve a regular plastic one.

Lizard · Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2002 9:08 am Post subject:

that steel grounding cap just slides over the new Plastic cap I have replaced mine and put the steel cap back on mine, although I see no real reason for it short of taking the charge there instead of another place on faulty wires
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3 928s,

Matias · Joined: 08 Nov 2002 Posts: 30 Location: Argentina

My distributor get`s wet every time I wash the car, I always thought that eas a faulty O`ring, maybe is the lack of that cap.

Lizard · Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2002 1:32 am Post subject:

I doubt it as that steel cap doesn't seal anything, and I don't have a rubber ring on mine and it never gets wet when it rains or I was the car,

I would make sure the cap is on correctly
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3 928s,

Peter · Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 379 Location: New York, NY

With the few days of unusually warm weather here, I was able to complete the installation of the entire exhaust system, waste gate system, not to mention starter, heat shields, etc.
I painted the exhaust parts green, as per the block, for two reasons: (1) I wanted to use up the pint of POR-15 engine enamel that I painted the block with (a little goes a loooong way), and; 2) it is so much easier working on the car when the parts and clean and painted, with no worries of rust or other debris falling into your eyes while you are laying on your back struggling with some parts.
Just some things I would like to share. Read the manuals, it will save you time installing parts and then removing said parts because you forgot to install a different part first.

Also, if you are concerned with speed/performance, use new gaskets. Exhaust leaks (also vacuum leaks, etc) are a major cause of decreased performance. Lastly, if you plan to ever undo the exhaust, turbo or waste gate yourself, then do yourself a favor and use new studs and lock nuts and a tab of anti-seize compound. It will save you a lot of aggravation in the future.
Happy New Year to All

Pic of the exhaust system looking from the front to the rear.

Pic of the waste gate area.

wdb · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 2024

brass nuts wil also prevent siezed nuts and broken studs , try not to breathe the fumes that will come off the exhaust system when you start it for the first time , and let it idle by itself 9you outside)with the windows and doors closed, ya dont want the smell of burnt paint in the car for weeks

Peter · Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 379 Location: New York, NY

Brass lock nuts are good, its what Porsche uses. The industrial supply house where I purchased the metric lock nuts only had steel, so I used them with anti-seize.
I plan to start the car in the open, as the fumes can get really bad. I don't expect the paint on the exhaust to last long, but stranger things have happened.
I think that all I have left to do is hook up a few wires, align the intake tube and secure the connections, pour in some gas, oil & water and then fire it up. If I get a few mild Saturdays this winter, I should be ready for the start of the DE season in March at Lime Rock.