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release bearing install

 
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jvandyke  



Joined: 31 Mar 2016
Posts: 205
Location: Hudsonville, MI

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:22 am    Post subject: release bearing install Reply with quote

Is this accurate?
http://www.porscherepair.us/porsche-911-1984-1989/clutch-release-bearing-replacing.html

spacer washers on bearing, then spring washer, then onto PP then stepped washer and locking ring
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87 924S project, '83 944 engine,
my son's first car.
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hdrider19  



Joined: 03 May 2016
Posts: 193
Location: Catawissa Missouri(40 mi sw of St Louis)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is how mine was assembled. When it goes together sit it with throw out bearing down then on inside of pp put washer with notch up. Next step is easier with help. Push down on pp. this will compress spring washer. Then put on snap ring.
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jvandyke  



Joined: 31 Mar 2016
Posts: 205
Location: Hudsonville, MI

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. I am able to put the ring on without compression, once in place there is only a very little amount of play. I had read somewhere that you're to put as many shim washers in as will allow for the snap ring to be installed which should leave a tad of play in there, I can't find it back now.
I just wanted to check before I button it up and torque it. I don't see mention of this in the manual.

this is to indicate compression is necessary, which I haven't had to do, could add another shim, I have more
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/TECHTO.html

I also wonder about fork install. I seem to see two methods, one suggests you can get the bellhousing on with the fork already in place and simply manipulate it onto the bearing as you put on the bell housing. the other method says to have the clutch fork loosely on the bearing, put on the bell housing and then, while holding the fork in place, slide the fork rod in and through the bell housing.
I can easily try both ways since the motor is out.
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87 924S project, '83 944 engine,
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hdrider19  



Joined: 03 May 2016
Posts: 193
Location: Catawissa Missouri(40 mi sw of St Louis)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you putting the snap ring inside the notch on the notch washer? The notch is to keep the snap ring from being spun off at high rims. That is why you have the spring washer. When it is compressed the snap ring groove should come above the notch washer. When you let up on the pp the snap ring should sit inside the notch.
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jvandyke  



Joined: 31 Mar 2016
Posts: 205
Location: Hudsonville, MI

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, the snap ring is in the notch, I found here in Clark's
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/clutch-01.htm
Which says essentially the same. Although they say a small amount of movement should be present.
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87 924S project, '83 944 engine,
my son's first car.


Last edited by jvandyke on Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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hdrider19  



Joined: 03 May 2016
Posts: 193
Location: Catawissa Missouri(40 mi sw of St Louis)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you are putting your firewall stuff (hoses and wires) together if you need any closeup pics pm me what you need to see. I will get detailed pics of whatever you need.
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jvandyke  



Joined: 31 Mar 2016
Posts: 205
Location: Hudsonville, MI

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hdrider19 wrote:
As you are putting your firewall stuff (hoses and wires) together if you need any closeup pics pm me what you need to see. I will get detailed pics of whatever you need.


I might have to take you up on that, the vacuum lines up in that area are a mystery. I don't even know for sure how the heater valve cable is attached and all that.

As for the release bearing, I'm still a bit confused, my kid and I went through it again and if I push down on the PP (with very little effort) the spring washer flattens and I can easily put the snap ring on then release and it gets pulled in. I did put a third shim in since I had one and it was noticeably thinner than the standard ones, with that shim I could do as above easily and there is a no play in the bearing to PP but it's not "tight" either, Clarks says a bit of play is good but they clearly say you need to press the PP fingers in to do this and I clearly did not, nor could you by hand, you can stand on it like the guys at Lindsey racing say but they also say they are only compressing the spring washer NOT the PP fingers, that spring washer isn't nearly so powerful as to need someone standing on it!
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/TECHTO.html

Here's Clarks for posterity:

Install a new release bearing on the pressure plate. You may need the snap ring from the old release bearing if the new bearing does not come with one. Install spacer(s) onto the release bearing. Insert the bearing into the opening on the pressure plate. While holding the bearing in place, lay the pressure plate on a flat surface with the pressure plate friction surface facing up. Press down on the sides of the pressure plate to compress the pressure plate fingers. This will allow enough clearance to install the snap ring onto the release bearing. The number of spacers installed should not prevent the snap ring from being installed. Also, once the bearing is installed and the snap ring is in place, there should be a small amount of movement between the release bearing and the pressure plate.
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hdrider19  



Joined: 03 May 2016
Posts: 193
Location: Catawissa Missouri(40 mi sw of St Louis)

PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Clark's is wrong on that. The spring washer doesn't take much to compress it. I took my old one(yours) off by kneeling on opposite sides while removing the snap ring. I put brand new one back on the same way. I posted some fire wall pics last night if it helps. Let me know any detail pics you need and maybe an email I can send to. Easier than posting on here.
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