924Board.org

[snakoil]

before we start, please understand my car is a DIY
It is intended for me to learn more about car works and not for show.
All work is currently done in my home garage
We started off by fixing the dents on my car and lay spraycan primer on it to eventually get to the paint boot.
Since we were arguing on the new color of the car(black) we started testing by spraycan painting the car black in my garage.
Our mindset was if it looks good it will stay on otherwise we'll simply re-sand to 500 grit and bring to paint boot next year.

While the spraycan job looks very decent on small parts, big items like hood shows dust particules and paint thickness seems too low to work with.

All this to say i'll bring it to a friends paint boot this summer.
We will have 1 week-end to paint the entire car.
(prep work will be done before)

My friend who is lending me his paint boot suggested using epoxy based paint for Industrial trucks.
Supposed to be a simple 1 stage process with a primer gun.
Final result should be quite clean and more resistant to rock chips.
Would be cheaper than regular paint and easier to apply.
He did mention that you can't blend this paint for discoloration so it can only be used on a full respray and not fixing body panels.
Choice of color is actually quite good, still debating between gloss black or GT3 Orange

Any of you used epoxy based paint before and can tell me if it is as good as it sounds?
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1979 924 NA

[jason c]

Not enough info.
What brand epoxy is it? What solvent is used?

Epoxies tend to have excellent adhesion. They are also have a harder finish, this tends to make them chip easier. Softer paints can absorb some of the impact of stone chips.

I use glasurit epoxy primers all the time.
Depending on the solvents used, it may attack the rattle can paint. Since spray paint isn't hardened, it remains solvent sensitive. The topcoat may eat (wrinkle & lift) the rattle can paint if the solvents are strong enough.
Since the rattle can paint isn't a good base anyway, I would remove it.

Your talking about a single stage paint. Single stage isn't meant to be blended for patch repair, if you do, you will see a "watermark" ring around the edge. Glasurit makes a blend in reducer that is meant to allow spot repairs of single stage paint, it works awesome.

I don't know why he would say its easier to spray the expoxy, there are so many variables to painting that it really depends on what equipment you have to work with. For example, a cheaper gun that doesn't atomize well may make it difficult to spray an epoxy & get a smooth finish.

[Brian L.]

I've done a bunch of back yard paint jobs and here is my 2 cents.

1: first paint job, then forget the black! Trust me just don't do it. You will get a black car but it will be a magnifying glass for everything less than perfect. The orange if its a solid orange (non metallic) would a good choice.
I've done a couple of orange cars in the past and its a good color to spray.

2: Gray rattle can primer is fine but try to wet sand most of it off. I don't mean bare metal but over the exiting paint its just meant for filling scratches and minor imperfections. For example if your hood has a full coat of rattle can primer under your final paint then its the weak link. Your final paint will be just as weak as the primer under it. Rock chips will be big and numerous. Wet sand off as much as you can,

3: Like any paint job the prep work is 90% of getting good results. There's just no short cuts here. You Tube can tell you what you need to know.

4:First paint job? Single stage, solid color is the way to go. You don't have to spray like a pro to get good results, it might just take a little more work.
I'm not sure what exactly you mean by epoxy but the industrial stuff sound like a Imron fleet color or something close. If you have good paint just lay on at least 3 good coats. Just remember the #1 rule is no runs!!! They are a lot of work to fix. Lay on a coat and wait a few minutes (depending on your temp.). Let it tack up a bit before laying on another coat if you over do it you will be sorry but if you get enough paint on even I it doesn't look the best like orange peel, you can wet sand a solid color with 1500/2000/2500 grit paper and the polish to a nice finish.

I know with a paint booth just for the weekend you won't have the time but I still find it easyer to paint in sections such as just the hood and front fenders one day the the doors another the the back half and it will come out fine as long as its all from the same container of paint.

5: My older Brother got me started by helping him paint one of his cars. This was a great trade because he showed me everything he knew. Seek out any help in person or if you can watch someone paint in person that would be invaluable. Some things you just have to try first hand. Practicing on something first would be even better.

6: Before you paint wipe down with a clean rag and Naphtha and keep a can of lacquer thinner around for clean up of you equipment.

Good luck!
Brian
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1980 924 N.A. Monaco Blue owned since 1987
"Remember, sitting on your ass won't finish your project" -Puddins fab shop.

[coldwarvet]

...black is going to be a tough go , even for an experienced painter...your finished product will always be in the prep...if you are painting a Porsche, you will find that they use a very good base under the color...if you can retain that base, do it...your final stage of sanding should not be less than 320 for good purchase and long-term adhesion...
...I would recommend a two-part, solid, light color to begin with...mixing instructions are right on the can (I use Delstar products...it costs a little more, but is easier to use and to do repairs on )...you can work it a lot if you screw up...don't use a clear-coat on your first job ... lay in plenty of solvent and supplies for cleaning...the nice thing about two-part is that you can vary your reducer (type) according to temperature conditions...two-part paints today have anti-sag properties that make it easier to get more paint on the surface...I would also recommend that, because all paints have different characteristics, you practice with it on a vertical surface BEFORE you paint the car. This will also give you an opportunity to use your gun, as it has a number of different settings you really should learn to use beforehand ...you don't need a booth for that...finally, at the risk of sounding like a lecture, please DO wear protective suit and mask...this stuff can and WILL kill you...besides, if you get it on you, or in your hair (or up your nose) it is a bitch to get off...that dirt on the paint is hard to avoid...cleanliness is everything so consider it part of the prep work, to include your hoses, equipment and clothing and make sure your ventilation system has adequate filtration on incoming air (I use hepa-filters)...that means putting wet towels or tape across anywhere air can be sucked in...
...good luck with your first paint job!
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931 S1 roadster...

[snakoil]

Thank you all for the suggestions provided

I forgot to mention that I will not be doing this alone and that my friend who will be doing it with me is working full time as a preparer for a local body shop. So i'm not affraid about the prep work.

Time will be our biggest challenge here

I'm starting to think orange will be a bit too "racy" as my goal is more of a clean classic look for the car.
I also want a color that will do justice to the original lines of the car as I'm removing most of the artifacts on the side of the car.
For sure it will be a solid color.

If you have other color suggestions feel free to let me know
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1979 924 NA

[coldwarvet]

...just light, solid colors will hide a multitude of sins, white being the best... in addition to keeping the cockpit cooler...put your hand on a light colored car on a hot day, then put your hand on a dark colored car...the difference is quite noticeable...aside from that, color is a matter of personal choice...perhaps a pastel in a color you like...some colors however, will show as much or more than black, even though they are derivatives, such as greys...especially metallic greys...but most derivatives on the light spectrum won't show as much...i.e. dark-green vs. light-green, etc...not to say there are not exceptions...I prefer yellow myself, as it hides mistakes, and lends itself well to accentuating chrome and a variety of detail colors such as red or any of the neon colors...best bet is to look around at what others have done...
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931 S1 roadster...

[snakoil]

talked with my friend yesterday and we agreed to paint it solid pure white based on your recommendations.
With several items gloss black (front bumper, moonroof, door handle, mirrors, wheels)
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1979 924 NA

[coldwarvet]

...I think white is a good choice for what you are looking for, with the additional plus that it will be easy to repair...be sure to post the before's and after's...remember that it is a "high contrast" color that will accentuate any other item that you paint a different color...if you want to enhance the basic lines of the car, you will want to use either a flat black (not recommended), or an opaque "semi gloss" (recommended), which will serve to play down the contrast...
...an additional note...the modern paints are not as solid as you might think...they are semi-transparent, so your base coat should be a white also for a bright "refrigerator" white...a grey base will give you a darker final color...
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931 S1 roadster...