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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW
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 Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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| scriblz7 wrote: | | as was said earlier you should definately check the fuel pressures |
Dude, he can tell the fuel pressure is OK because the plate has resistance.
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- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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kcoyle
Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY
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| Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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DITC conenction under dash? Probably not but it only takes a sec to check.
How "apart" was the car beforehand?
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morghen
Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania
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| Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:17 am Post subject: |
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| MikeDanger wrote: | | also after the engine started to at least idle, I pushed on the CIS plate a tiny bit and again the engine wanted to die |
It might be from the honda dash 
Sorry, could not resist
You're not supposed to press the CIS plate!
You're supposed to press the throttle and have no vacum leaks.
If it idles fine let it warm up a bit and then try to rev it...you might have a very rich mixture setting.
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Paul
Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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| Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:56 am Post subject: |
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And install a thermostat.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
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Ian89C4
Joined: 01 Apr 2011
Posts: 561
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:28 am Post subject: |
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try unplugging the frequency valve, it sounds like the system pressure is off and the computer feels that it needs to enrichen it. Perhaps if you unplug the frequency valve you may be able to get her to run. But that is not a fix, you need to check the system pressure.
Even if the WUR was said to be able to work, did you check the Ohm resistance across the WUR? You can do that with the WUR in the car and start going about it that way. You can find the resistance in the Haynes manual.
Good luck!
Ian
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Ian Edgerly
North Carolina
Current:
1981 924 SCCA/ChampCar Weissach Race Car ("Serenity")
1987 924S ChampCar Endurance Car ("Der Weg")
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Ian89C4 wrote: | try unplugging the frequency valve, it sounds like the system pressure is off and the computer feels that it needs to enrichen it. Perhaps if you unplug the frequency valve you may be able to get her to run. But that is not a fix, you need to check the system pressure.
Even if the WUR was said to be able to work, did you check the Ohm resistance across the WUR? You can do that with the WUR in the car and start going about it that way. You can find the resistance in the Haynes manual.
Good luck!
Ian |
Actually I think I did unplug the frequency valve and it stopped running.
I did check the WUR resistance, and it seemed with in range.
However I did use a spare intake i had which already had a Cold start valve in it, thats really the only difference I can think of.
Im going to do a throrough check and tests and if nothing makes a difference Ill try the DIY pressure tester.
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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Ok well I went back out tonight and checked, didnt find a vacuum leak. even pulled one of the vacuum lines off the throttle and it kept running.
I played with the mixture screw on the CIS meter, and it seemed ok, but still giving it any throttle the engine would stumble and die.
Unpluged the frequency valve, Aux air, and Coldstart, made no difference.
BUT disconnecting the overboost connector made it stop.
I let the engine warm up and run for about 8-10min
I was going to start checking the injectors and Pulled the first one out, jumpered the fuel pump, but nothing happend?? I didn't hear the pump run, and when I pressed the meter plate nothing happened.
By then I was tired and cold.... and decided to go home.
So I have to see why the fuel pump didn't come on when I jumpered it. But im assuming it must be running when the car was on right?? (its a new fuel pump BTW)
One thing I just remembered; I opened one of the 2 spare WURs I had (before i installed it) But im not sure which of them it was. I wonder if I could have done any thing to damage it. However its pretty simple, didnt look like there was much to screw up. I didnt open the actual fuel valve part.
SO, sounds like its not getting enough fuel... BUT keep in mind before I swapped the WUR, it would rev just fine like nothing was wrong (until the engine warmed up)
hrmmmmmmm
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dpw928
Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1860
Location: owasso, ok 74055
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 1:24 am Post subject: |
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Your problem may be caused by low system pressure. This can be caused by a defective/clogged relief valve, incorrect (low pressure) or defective fuel pump, partially clogged fuel filter or a plugged port between the relief valve and fuel distributor due to broken o rings on the relief valve.
Recommend you perform a pump volume test, and inspect the relief valve for o ring damage.
Dennis
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morghen
Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 1:59 am Post subject: |
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| MikeDanger wrote: | | Ok well I went back out tonight and checked, didnt find a vacuum leak. even pulled one of the vacuum lines off the throttle and it kept running. |
Thats weird dont you think?...why would they be connected if it runs with them dissconnected anyway?
If you pulled a vaccum hoose and it did not make ANY difference you surely have a vacum leak somewhere else.
Did you connect & secure the port UNDER the intake manifold?
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:31 am Post subject: |
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| morghen wrote: | | MikeDanger wrote: | | Ok well I went back out tonight and checked, didnt find a vacuum leak. even pulled one of the vacuum lines off the throttle and it kept running. |
Thats weird dont you think?...why would they be connected if it runs with them dissconnected anyway?
If you pulled a vaccum hoose and it did not make ANY difference you surely have a vacum leak somewhere else.
Did you connect & secure the port UNDER the intake manifold? |
yes the port under the intake is on and tight.
When I pulled the vacuum line it DID make a difference but not enough to kill the engine, which to me means that IF there was a vacuum leak, its still not enough to make the engine do what its doing.
Infact.... I would slighty press on the CIS plate and move the throttle at the same time (essentially manually tuning the mixture) but couldnt get it to do anything with open throttle.
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:42 am Post subject: |
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| dpw928 wrote: | Your problem may be caused by low system pressure. This can be caused by a defective/clogged relief valve, incorrect (low pressure) or defective fuel pump, partially clogged fuel filter or a plugged port between the relief valve and fuel distributor due to broken o rings on the relief valve.
Recommend you perform a pump volume test, and inspect the relief valve for o ring damage.
Dennis |
Um... which is the relief valve?
Fuel pump is new, as is Fuel filter (however the car came with out a fuel filter(the guy i got it from was trying to fix it and was waiting for a new filter, so basically the filter wasnt the issue)
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morghen
Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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Location: Romania
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:47 am Post subject: |
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hmm...jump the pump, check how much comes out of the injectors.
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dpw928
Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1860
Location: owasso, ok 74055
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 7:32 am Post subject: |
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The relief valve is in the fuel distributor. It is removed by unscrewing the brass hex bolt on the side. When you remove it, check the condition of the o rings.
Was the new pump made specifically for a CIS engine? There are a lot out there that are advertised for both the CIS and later L jet fuel systems but they don't have enough pressure. To test the volume, remove the inlet line to the fuel distributor, jumper the fuel pump at the 30 and 87 relay connection, then measure the amount of fuel pumped in 30 seconds. On a new CIS pump, it should be at least 1100 CC's.
Dennis
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:53 am Post subject: |
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| dpw928 wrote: | The relief valve is in the fuel distributor. It is removed by unscrewing the brass hex bolt on the side. When you remove it, check the condition of the o rings.
Was the new pump made specifically for a CIS engine? There are a lot out there that are advertised for both the CIS and later L jet fuel systems but they don't have enough pressure. To test the volume, remove the inlet line to the fuel distributor, jumper the fuel pump at the 30 and 87 relay connection, then measure the amount of fuel pumped in 30 seconds. On a new CIS pump, it should be at least 1100 CC's.
Dennis |
oh you mean the regulating valve. Ill check, but again It ran fine before I swaped the WUR.
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dpw928
Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1860
Location: owasso, ok 74055
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 10:15 am Post subject: een |
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The relief valve could have been leaking but a defective (low control pressure) WUR would have compensated to a point. If the new WUR has raised the control pressure, a leaking relief valve would cause your current problem. If the relief valve looks okay and the new pump volume is sufficient, your next step should be a control/system pressure test.
Dennis
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