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clutch and gearbox removal

 
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bunta  



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 6:32 am    Post subject: clutch and gearbox removal Reply with quote

Hello Guys
I am looking for a tutorial for Clutch replacing on a 1983 924 2.0.

thx
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1245
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is another website out there called Clarks Garage. It mainly covers mainly 944's but has lots of useful 924 info. In the Garage Manual section there is a complete writeup for a 944, it should be very similar.
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'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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txjake  



Joined: 17 Feb 2007
Posts: 395
Location: Oklahoma City OK

PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haynes manual?
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1978 924, aka The Red Rocker
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bunta  



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haynes is not clear
it claims that we can move back from 85mm the transaxle with gearbox... when i only see 10mm room
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dent the spare tire well to gain room

-OR-

Pull the motor, which would be better since you could replace any questionable hoses and seals.
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To gain the necessary clearance, you need to disconnect the trans from the half shafts and unbolt the trans mounts from the chassis. This will allow you to drop the trans below spare tire well and move it all the way back. This is the method that Haynes recommends (leaving the trans still attached to the torque tube).

In my experience, the Haynes approach is not easy at all because the torque tube will not lower by much due to the rear torsion carrier, so getting enough of an angle to drop the trans down and under the spare tire well, while still attached to the torque tube, is a real problem.

Pulling the motor is about a 4 hour proposition, and not really necessary. Removing the trans is a cinch, it only takes about 1 hour. Doing so will make it much easier access to the clutch (providing far more than 85mm, which is barely enough to service the clutch, especially if you intend to replace the pilot bearing).

Trans removal is not hard at all...12 CV bolts (the inner ones...tie up the half shafts); remove both bolts from the coupler and slide it all the way back onto the input shaft; remove four bolts from the trans bell-housing to the torque tube; remove the two bolts that hold the trans mounts to the chassis; loosen the shift rod set screw; disconnect the backup light switch; now the trans will drop completely out.

Make sure you perform the disassembly in this order. It is critical to COMPLETELY REMOVE both pinch bolts from the coupler, and to slide the coupler all the way back onto the input shaft BEFORE removing the bolts from the bell housing to torque tube or the trans mounts. Otherwise, the weight of the trans will prevent coupler from sliding, and could bend the drive shaft.

When you have the trans out of the way, you are now free to move the torque tube as far back as necessary, making access to the clutch much easier.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two more things:

1. When you remove CV bolts, make sure you have a proper triple square bit. Do NOT attempt to remove these with an Allen bit. Also, when inserting the bit into the head, be sure to clean all of the grunge out of the head with a dental pick, and then give the triple square bit a couple of firm smacks with a hammer. This will "wake" the bolt (they're not really torqued that tightly), and it will properly seat the bit into the head.

2. The OEM CV bolts are single use, so you should either replace them with new OEM units, or with Stage 8 locking fasteners. If you intend to use OEM hardware, it is absolutely vital to clean the threads of the CV flange (liberal amounts of brake cleaner works well), as the CV grease will contaminate the threads, and has been known to prevent the bolts from holding torque and subsequently backing out. Re-using the OEM bolts is also a bad idea, as they are designed to stretch and are therefore only suitable for single use. New OEM bolts are pretty cheap, about $1 or so per bolt if you're on a budget and don't want to spring for the Stage 8 hardware.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been reusing CV bolts since 1974 on many makes of cars, no issues so far.
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Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
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Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the stupid cheesehead bolts with standard Allen bolts of the same length and strength rating on both cars. No issues with either. Installation and prep are the same.
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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