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WUR removal
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MikeDanger  



Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 4:13 pm    Post subject: WUR removal Reply with quote

Can anyone tell me if the WUR can be removed with out removing the intake?
I can't seem to get to the bottom bolt.


Also I put my multi meter to the WUR and it measured at 25.5 Ohms, where as my other 2 were at 23.5 and 25.3 is that any indicaton that it might be good?
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scriblz7  



Joined: 07 Dec 2008
Posts: 112
Location: kirkland WA.

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it can be removed without taking the intake off. keep trying!
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scm924s  



Joined: 22 Oct 2010
Posts: 296
Location: Gloucester UK

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's a bit easier if you remove the coil first.
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MikeDanger  



Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did remove the coil, I removed almost everything in the area, except what I think is a coolant line, actually the coolant temp sensor is the main thing in the way so I can't get a ratchet in there. and regular allen keys are too short (for the bottom bolt, top is no problem)
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's possible. I just accepted the fact that there is too much crap under the hood and everything will be a PITA.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder what were the results of the earlier tests recommended by ideola on your earlier thread? Those results would be a help for diagnosis.
Quote:
I put my multi meter to the WUR and it measured at 25.5 Ohms ... is that any indicaton that it might be good?
Normally the heater coil of the WUR would have a resistance around 30 to 40 ohms, so there's not a problem there -- failure would read either none or infinite resistance.

One quick test if you don't have the test gauge setup yet -- I probably should have posted earlier -- is to disconnect the electrical connection to the WUR, run the fuel pump, and pull a vacuum from the lower fitting of the WUR to about 8 psi. If the regulator does not hold a vacuum above 3 or 4 psi after a minute, then the regulator should be rebuilt or replaced.

I don't know or remember your model year but on earlier CIS autos, (where the WUR doesn't have push value) as in a similar way pointed to in your earlier thread by ideola and 924 Racer, if the engine won't start when at operating temperature this is a common symptom of WUR failure.
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MikeDanger  



Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so HOW do I reach that bottom bolt??
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dubrict  



Joined: 22 Apr 2011
Posts: 150
Location: Horseheads NY

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time I removed it I ended up throwing tools at mach 2 speeds into the wall until I broke down and pulled the intake. Since then I bought 5 spare intake gaskets because it's just not worth that level of rage. And I'm generally a pretty calm guy
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SilverGhost  



Joined: 16 Mar 2011
Posts: 56
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a bench grinder to cut the longer leg off the correct size Allen key, fitted that into that size 1/4" drive socket which I then fitted to a ratchet arm. Then I held them all together with masking tape. Using this, removing and replacing that bottom screw is fairly easy, provided you have removed the coil.
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MikeDanger  



Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well if that temp sensor wasnt RIGHT behing the WUR it would be alot easier.
and id doesnt seem like I can remove the temp sensor either!
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Brockoli  



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done this twice I think, its a PITA but is doable without removing the intake manifold. Im pretty sure I used a standard allenkey too. All I really remember is my sore back as I was hunched over for awhile

I removed the coil, fuel lines, AAV (maybe not necessary but I wanted more room), vacuum lines.

To get the bottom bolt try using the allan key the long way and use pliers on the short end to get enough leverage to loosen the bolt.
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maybeoneday  



Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 82
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MikeDanger wrote:
Ok so HOW do I reach that bottom bolt??

I just did it not that long ago with a long allan key that has an end that allows you to attack the bolt at a slight angle, I was having major problems getting to it with a normal allan key also.
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 2312
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WUR removal/adjustment is simple



OK, I cheated
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Then www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=31252
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txjake  



Joined: 17 Feb 2007
Posts: 395
Location: Oklahoma City OK

PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

another thread that makes me happy that I converted to Webers.
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MikeDanger  



Joined: 21 Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, theres no way its comming off with out removing the intake.
I was able to get an allen on the bottom bolt. and I THINK i cracked it. But i barely have room to move and I now cant tell if im turning the bolt at all, or just miving it back and forth or even engaing it now.
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