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Fix rear hatch latch problems.

 
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
Posts: 2096
Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:19 am    Post subject: Fix rear hatch latch problems. Reply with quote

Over time the rear lid can cause us problems due to slack in the linkage, lack of lubrication or improper adjustment. It is not too hard to get it working right again with some fiddling. If you have noticed that your trunk latch motor is not opening the trunk or only opening one side, or that you have to use a lot of pressure turning the key... you probably need to try this.

First pull back the carpet in the trunk exposing the latches. Then remove the two 10mm bolts holding each latch. On the back of the latch body there is a tiny plastic ball joint. Pop it apart with a screw driver. The latch should now come out.

Once the latch is out lubricate the jaws and lever with some type of oil and work the white plastic lever back and forth to make sure the oil is penetrating and that the mechanism is working. The jaws should close under spring pressure. Put a tiny bit of grease on the ball.



You then need to adjust the linkage on each side. This is done by turning the plastic rod end on each of the pull rods.




Turning the end counterclockwise will increase slack, clockwise will tighten it up. To adjust the linkage you need to make sure the rod is pulled all the way out (away from the key lock, and that the white plastic lever on the latch is disengaged, but not all the way back. Push it towards the opening position just till resistance is felt and leave it there (this eliminates a lot of slack). Line up the holes on the latch body with the studs in the trunk and see where the white ball is relative to the rod tip. Turn the rod tip until the socket is right over the ball. Do the same for the other side. My car required 5 turns on each side.



each rod tip has a plastic snap that can be opened to make assembly easier.



Once you have made your adjustments and removed the slack from the linkage, slide the latch up onto the studs and snap the rod tip back over the ball. If you loosened the snap on the rod tip donít forget to close it. Install the drip catch plate and hose and 10mm nuts, but donít tighten. Make sure the nuts are loose enough to move the latch body around for placement.



The next step is to set the position of the latches. I did this by gently lowering the glass hatch, but not shutting it all the way. Working from the inside of the trunk, gently pull down on the hatch while wiggling each latch body to center it. The cone shape of the stud on the hatch will center the latches. Once they are right, tighten the nuts down.





Now shut the glass hatch so it latches and try unlatching it. The linkage should turn with minimal finger pressure and unlatch on both sides at the same time.



You can adjust how tightly the trunk shuts against the rubber seal by loosening the locknut around the hatch stud and turning the stud either in (tight) or out (loose).



You can lube the latch jaws with grease if you choose, but remember it can end up in your hair or on your clothes from the hatch stud when the trunk is open so less is better in this case.



Dont forget to lube the motor cable before you put the carpet back.

Remember, the latches on these cars drain water through them when it rains, so it is a good idea to oil them regularly. This can be done from the top without taking anything apart, and the drip catch will route any excess oil out the drainage tubes.
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ZODIAC  



Joined: 08 Apr 2009
Posts: 343
Location: West Haven, Ct

PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great HT! i need to fiddle with that in the spring. ol' girls under a tarp until then. quick question, the gasket in the last picture. is that available to order somewhere? it's the only reason i can think of as to why i am taking on water from the hatch area. it seems like it is allowing to much water to flow in, and i dont have that gasket there.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15499
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That piece in the last picture in the hatch lock recess area is actually not a gasket, it's a large block of rubber. I can see where if it was missing you would definitely be taking on tons of water. I think you can get them new, but they are EXPENSIVE. You might try sourcing one from someone who is parting out a car, just make sure they exercise care when removing, as they are a bit tough to get out without damaging them.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15499
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ZODIAC
FWIW, those things are called "CELL RUBBER BUFFER" and retail for $92 each for the early 924 version (part numbers 477.827.365.A & 477.827.366.A, left and right side respectively).

Now, the interesting thing is that there is a 944 part number that is listed for chassis after serial number 92FN4 00899. I don't know if the parts are interchangeable or what the difference might be, but the 944 part retails for significantly less at $31.50 per side (and interestingly is called a "HATCH LATCHING SEAL"). 944.512.365.01 & 944.512.366.01, left and right side respectively.
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ZODIAC  



Joined: 08 Apr 2009
Posts: 343
Location: West Haven, Ct

PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Ideola, thanks man. i couldnt think of a way to describe that aside from a gasket! i'll start checking the part outs, adn look into the 944 one!
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"Kraut cars, they know how to build 'em".
1977 924 N/A - Red with waterdamage interior
yes...waterdamage is now a color...
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Patrick  



Joined: 05 Dec 2007
Posts: 270
Location: Manila, PHILIPPINES

PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe Citizennn- Fantastic How To! exactly what i`ve been needing to straighten out my rear hatch locking issues. Much Thanks!
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Thyperson  



Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 38
Location: Wisconsin Rapids, WI

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the How-to. I can now open my hatch again!
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camfella  



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 43
Location: Ottawa - Canada

PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the great walk through, definitly on the list of things to do!

Cheers!
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1869
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I've seen, adjusting the hatch studs as described doesn't work. On my hatches, the stud is held captive in the piece attached to the hatch with a head, and the nut is there to secure the pin to the hatch, not to adjust how far down the pin hangs.

It's a bit annoying as one of mine is a bit too long and the other a bit too short, and this method of adjusting doesn't do the trick.

Could these be different for different years? I've looked at the hatch that was on my '78, pieces from a '78 parts car, and a hatch (on my car now) from an unknown-year 931.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15499
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom, are you sure? Did you loosen the lock nut? If you don't, the hatch pins will just spin, but if you loosen the lock nut, you should be able to adjust the pin length. There should be a slot in the end of the pin for a large screwdriver. Use this to keep the pin from spinning, and then break loose the lock nut. Then turn the pin in to shorten or out to lengthen.
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15 981 GTS | 88 924S SE | 82 931 Holbert | 82 931 Rallye | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod Replica | 78 w/D-Prod kit | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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nwns  



Joined: 27 Sep 2008
Posts: 93
Location: Lancashire, UK

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy the 944 parts, pins, clasp, rubbers the lot. They fit just fine and are much better
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TheChrisSummers  



Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Medina, Ohio

PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great how-to, thanks for your time and effort now i don't have to sit there and try to force my trunk open for 10 minutes!
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Crash613  



Joined: 12 Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Location: Toledo, OH

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a great write-up. I'm not sure if it applies to me or not. Maybe you can help. When I use the key the hatch opens fine. When I press the button in the footwell I can feel the motor running and it sounds like it should open but it does not. Will making these adjustments affect my problem?
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