924Board.org

tomcooper · Joined: 17 Feb 2004 Posts: 301 Location: Waterloo, Nebraska

Ladies and Gentlemen,

Here is a link to a very good article from the NARP board on how to rebuild the CIS fuel distributor. The actual rebuild is for a 2.7 six out of a 74 911, but the fuel distributor looks just like the one out of a 924 except it has two more ports.

http://z8.invisionfree.com/ClubNARP/index.php?showtopic=3471

The author, Slits, has promised to get back to me with a source for o-rings and gaskets and I'll post that as soon as I get it.

Hope this helps some one.

Tom
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Casper and Big Red, both 1980 NA
Black Bart, 1990 944 S2 Cab

dpw928 · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 1860 Location: owasso, ok 74055

I didn't see anything on removing the valves/springs, cylinder or replacing internal o rings. i.e. what he described was a cleanup rather than a rebuild. Did I miss part of it?

Dennis
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81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

kbaranek · Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 9:51 pm Post subject:

Did you mean this

And This

I haven't rebuilt it yet. Took it apart because it was stuck in full throttle position. Bought the car with motor out and have been restoring for over a year. Main problem is finding internal parts for the engine i.e. Main Bearings standard size. I don't have a repair manual on the distributor itself but if anyone has a copy it would certainly be appreciated.

More details to follow as it goes back together.[/img]
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Kerry G.

77 Porsche 924
9247210079

dpw928 · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 1860 Location: owasso, ok 74055

Kerry,

The distributor was considered factory rebuild only so a manual was never published. There are tech articles written on the rebuilds by DIY'er like the one published in "Up Fixin V" by the PCA.

Your o rings appear to be in good shape with no cuts, but reinstalling them would be risky. Recommend they all be replaced with a fuel resistant type. Also, it is crucial that the cylinder (with the o rings) be reinstalled in the correct orientation so the oval openings line up with the slits/holes on the upper housing. Make sure everything is clean, including the small decoupler holes and passages. If you use an adhesive, make sure it doesn't block the small passages.

Dennis
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81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

kbaranek · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:54 am Post subject:

I was just addressing the question you asked about the article posted about rebuilding the fuel dist. but didn't address the regulator or internal parts.

Thanks for the tip.
I've been a mechanic for over 30 years but don't remember messing with any fuel injection back in the 70's and without the repair manual it's just a little harder to get it right.

I plan on changing all o-rings and seals. I don't think any adhesives or silicone should be used as none were evident upon disassembly and would no doubt cause problems.

The haynes manual told me not to take it apart but I have confidence that after I rebuild this distributor it will go back together and work just like new.

Maybe use carb conversion.....
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Kerry G.

77 Porsche 924
9247210079

dpw928 · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 1860 Location: owasso, ok 74055

Actually, rebuilding the fuel distributor is easy compared to a Quadrajet 4 barrel carb. Guess I'm telling my age.

Dennis
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81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

tuurbo · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:30 am Post subject:

You have more guts than me.

Ok so what was wrong with it? What should I look for in the pictures, besides some grime, that is wrong?

Thanks!
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1980 924 turbo, MSD, Meth. Inj, otherwise stock.

dpw928 · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 1860 Location: owasso, ok 74055

The obvious is that it needs cleaning. It was probably flowing too much fluid because the piston was stuck in the up position or the 4 small o rings had hardened and shrunk. Another possible reason for an ultarich mixture is a broken o ring on relief valve, but due to the focus on your picture it's hard to tell if that could be the culprit.

Dennis
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81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

BionicBalls · Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 642 Location: Charlotte, NC

If you have trouble getting the two halves to seal at the gasket, like I did, you should try some JB weld. I applied a thin layer of it to both halves before putting the gasket in and I am all sealed up.
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1980 924 NA
1982 931

dpw928 · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 1860 Location: owasso, ok 74055

If you use adhesives between the two halves, be careful or it can over spread and fill the small orifices. On mine I cleaned both halves with a razor blade, made sure they were flat then used axle grease as a gasket filler. Grease won't stop the normal flow through the orifices but will plug any seepages that can occur.

Dennis
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81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

Marlando · Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:22 pm Post subject:

Just replaced internal O'rings of distributor. I took all parts in a box to seal place, not just an auto store but a place that only sells seals. Anyway after probing the old perished rubber with verniers for a while and discussing the finer details of the type of seal. This is the list of seals that we came up with, all are viton. The only seal I didn't replace was the bottom seal that you access from removing the big nut from bottom of centre shaft cylinder thing. Recommend Viton. Just a pointer about using the diaphram to hold oval port seals in place when reaasembling. These may not be the exact orings but the best that we interpreted.

MR014X2 V Top seal of cylinder. 1 of. 14 x 2 mm Viton
MR008X2 V Oval ports. 4 of. 8 x 2 mm Viton
005V Pressure regulator Small. 1 of. Not exactly sure.

I have too agree with all above comments about small parts and precautions you should take.
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'79 924.
4 speed manual.
Formerly Indiana Red, now Green.