924Board.org

mgatlag · Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 647 Location: Avon, IN

Well I've decided to park the 924 for a while and play with it in the garage. Suspension work and engine gaskets replacing is the to-do. The person that I bought my rebuilt engine from used silicone on almost everything when rebuilding it. So I have a few little oil leaks in various places. I'm going to replace pretty much all the gasket since I can't totally pinpoint the leaks. Am I ok to use a silicone gasket or should I use one of the engine gasket sets I see all the time on evil-bay? And if a RTV type is ok, which one? Thanks.
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Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
'04 Ford Taurus - gone!!
'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

Porsche... better than tea with Miss McGill
(Slap Shot)

Stampedetrail · Joined: 29 May 2005 Posts: 274 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska

What a shame! If you don't feel like cutting your own gaskets (you can get raw material from any parts store) you can of course order an engine gasket set from a number of places. I used Performance which is a mail order catalog, but better deals can probably be found elsewhere, such as ebsracing.com. A tip - just lightly coat the faces of the gaskets with black or orange RTV. While you've got 'er all apart, why not do rings, bearings, bearings, etc?
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1977.5 924 "Martini" head / New Old Stock rebuild
1985.5 944 Why? Because I can.

Paul · Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:31 pm Post subject:

I've had great success with these GUYS
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

mgatlag · Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 647 Location: Avon, IN

Ok, I'm deciding today on which set to get. I found these two sets, they should be what I'm looking for right? Since the engine has been rebuilt already, I'm thinking of just redoing the seals. I should also get new head bolts too from what I've read about them. Check these two sets out and let me know what you think. Thanks for the input! I want the car to be down for as short of time as possible.

https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=vaz54zyw3z0unt452ihkjb55&makeid=800019@Porsche&modelid=1263226@924%20&year=1977&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals&gid=5416@Cylinder%20Head%20Gasket%20Set

https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=vaz54zyw3z0unt452ihkjb55&makeid=800019@Porsche&modelid=1263226@924%20&year=1977&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals%20%26%20Gaskets&gid=5376@Block/Lower%20Engine%20Gasket%20Set
_________________
Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
'04 Ford Taurus - gone!!
'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

Porsche... better than tea with Miss McGill
(Slap Shot)

924RACR · Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 1:29 am Post subject:

Yes, those gasket sets look right on target, reasonable prices.

For sealant, etc., do the following.

Head gasket goes on dry. We just reuse stock bolts.

Rubber ends of the valve cover gasket are RTV'd in place on the cam bearing caps, so on the lower half only. They will seal fine with a thin wipe of oil against the cam cover. The sides of the cam cover gasket are wiped with oil to swell the gasket material only - NO RTV.

The oil pan gasket is a bitch. No two ways about it. Only way to seal it well, since it's a 4-piece seal, is carefully with RTV, I only ever use Elring Dirko. I've posted about it in the past, it's rust colored, works better than ANY other RTV, and is THE STUFF to use. Mail order it. So, you RTV in the ends, just like the cam cover, then RTV both side gaskets in this case. Up front at the corners of the end seals is usually the worst place to have the leaking.

ALL OTHER PAPER GASKETS DO NOT GET RTV. In fact, the above two are the only places you should use RTV. All other paper gaskets should be wiped with oil, as mentioned, to swell the gasket material and provide a good seal. This is for example the water pump gasket, t-stat housing, intake gasket, etc.

The exhaust gaskets are put on dry, of course.

Seals should be wiped with oil lightly to provide lubrication for installation, and seated carefully and squarely.

Our race motors don't drip oil. In fact, it's the only motor I have that doesn't

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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

Min · Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 2:38 am Post subject:

RTV is an adhesive. So, Unless I want to glue my gasket down, I don't use it anymore(not to mention I find stuff doesn't seal very well with it at all anyways, no matter how you apply it). Hylomar is what I tend to use instead, I've been very impressed by it so far.

Min
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Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting.

mgatlag · Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 647 Location: Avon, IN

Thanks for the help boys. I just ordered both gasket sets from Autohaus Arizona and should arrive in a few days. Hopefully I'll have something to do this weekend

. I guess this will be a great way of seeing how well/shitty the rebuild went with the guy I bought the engine from. One thing that concerns me is the amount of studs that were used to put the engine together, hopefully it won't cause me any problems when I go to put the proper torque on the bolts/nuts.

Since I will be havine the engine torn apart, what else could I spend a little $$ on and get good results? I don't want to spend lots of $$ but would like to know what my options are since it will all be apart. And Vaughan...don't start tempting me with tons of stuff!! You are a GREAT source of info, but you tend to make me spend lots of money!!

I have to be a little conservative for now since I just bought a bunch of acreage and am starting to build a new house and 50x80 barn. Can't wait for the barn, I already have a lift for it!
_________________
Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
'04 Ford Taurus - gone!!
'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

Porsche... better than tea with Miss McGill
(Slap Shot)

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

Hehe, I bet I could tempt you to part with a few dollars...stroker, pistons, carbs, heheheh!

Seriously, I do have a really nice set of headers for an NA. I had aspirations at one time of building a stroked, high compression, big valve, carbed NA, and that's what these headers were destined for. However, plans have changed a bit, as I have been accumulating enough stuff to potentially build another stroked 931. PM me if you have any interest.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

-nick · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 2699 Location: Cambridge, MA

Ditto on the hylomar. Installing gaskets dry or with silicone is not good in my opinion. Both will let the gasket dry out over time (albeit, often a long time). They need to stay soft and pliable, which hylomar does a great job of. I've never had any gasket issues with hylomar and you can typically reuse those gaskets.

Headgasket gets put on dry though.

You might want to check into a simple valve job while it's apart. Check/replace guides, replace guide seals, and lap recut and lap the valves for a good seal.
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1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet

924RACR · Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 4:35 am Post subject:

Consider balancing then, maybe lighten the flywheel too. Pistons and rods can be balanced with a postal scale, unless you want serious weight taken off (IIRC each stock rod can safely lose on the order of 100 grams - yeah, stock weight range can be as low as 815g). That will come off the bearing cap. Just a long time grinding.

That'll really give 'er some zip!
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

mgatlag · Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 647 Location: Avon, IN

Alright well let me throw this at you then.. I still have the complete original engine sitting on a pallet in the garage. It has around 130K miles on it but ran pretty good. I'm sure it needs some work to bring it up to snuff, but would it make more sense to use this original one and rebuild it to a beefy monster? If that's the case Dan, and Vaughan, you could then go nuts with me and help me find fun stuff for it. I could even come up to MI for some of the parts/repairs as I come back up home for visits. But I still want to reseal the engine in the car now so I have something to drive.
_________________
Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
'04 Ford Taurus - gone!!
'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

Porsche... better than tea with Miss McGill
(Slap Shot)

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

Ahhh! Now you're talkin'!!! Just get the current engine in good mechanical condition, and take your time building a monster engine. That WOULD be fun.

One thing I think that wasn't mentioned earlier in this thread is to replace the cam oiler tube elbow. Once you've settled on a plan, you might give EBS a call as they can pull together the complete seal kit and any extras (like the aforementioned elbow) into a total package for your minimalistic refresh. Save the big money for the motor that's out of the car so you can take your time and build something truly unique and fun

Mike, if you still have my phone number, give me shout...otherwise, send me a PM.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

924RACR · Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 11:37 pm Post subject:

How many times do you want to pull/install motors??

Hmmm... seems like you're now contemplating long and involved works... I was only suggesting minimal and cheap stuff...
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

mgatlag · Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 647 Location: Avon, IN