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924CS
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 14 Location: Grenoble in French Alps
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Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 3:48 am Post subject: how to install a starter switch panel (in worst english) |
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1st buy a starter switch panel
2nd disconnect the battery
3rd with an M8 key, move the motronic box it's more easier to workin below the dash board
disconnect carefully the wiring starter switch .
don't cut the wires, use male connections
in my 24 i have 3 bigsthickness wires :
red/withe : permanent +
black : junction for switched +
red/black : contact to starter
many smallthickness wire for : targa top, wipers, light and heat ventilator.
in the cutoff put the 1 when cutoff/off and the black in 2
for the starter i have choose to combinate with a switch because i don't want to make risk if one kid (or me) pull the starter button when the car run (4)
in 5 put all small wires together and conbinate with another switch, ant wired it with 2 (switched+)
if your car have targa top : to remove the roof, don't put the cutoff key, just on the switch.
it's my first report write with my bloody f++k and worst english.
you can look the pic, and i hope you understand something
_________________ Race is Life |
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Peter_in_AU
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 2743 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:33 am Post subject: |
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924CS your English is easily understood.
Thanks. _________________ 1979 924 (Gone to a better place)
1974 Lotus 7 S4 "Big Valve" Twin-cam (waiting)
1982 924 (As featured on Wikipedia)
Learn to love your multimeter and may the search be with you |
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leadfoot
Joined: 11 Dec 2002 Posts: 2222 Location: gOLD cOAST Australia
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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I can't see your picture, is this what your talking about??
Leadfoot
_________________ 1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress... |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 8794 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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LOL, I just installed a very similar ignition/start panel on a 924S racecar yesterday!
The PITA is getting the kill switch to work (which is to say, not just disconnect the battery but also to kill the engine when turned off); seems to me you have to run the charging wire from the alternator directly back to the battery. Wired as such, it will always be able to charge the battery even after kill switch is disconnected, but the entire rest of the car will lose power once the kill switch is pulled.
Interesting, looks like the switch you use for #1 is the same as or similar to my kill switch.
The nice part about this installation is that, as noted, you don't cut wires, only plug into them with what we'd call male spade terminals. This means you are not doing anything to the car that can't easily be undone. In this case, this switch panel replaces the function of the ignition switch (so your key isn't needed to start the car), but it could be all unplugged and easily changed back to use the stock key setup fairly quickly and without damage.
By the way, another note on this wiring. If you look on the backside of the electrical plug for the ignition switch, you will see (with enough light) that the individual terminals are labeled: 30, 50, 15, X, etc. These correspond to the wiring codes in the wiring diagrams.
So 30 is the large red wire in the center that is wired direct to the battery, +12V all the time. 15 (smaller black wires) is the main power bus or circuit, energized when key on and when cranking. 50 (red with black stripe) is the starter power lead, to crank the starter. X (black with I think yellow stripe) is for those circuits which are on when running, but turned off when cranking to preserve power for engine start: headlights, radio, etc.
So, as noted, 50 gets the starter connection, 15 and X you will want to connect to the main ignition and accessory switches, and 30 will supply power for the whole deal.
Note also that the terminals in the ignition switch connector are just female spade terminals. Furthermore, they can be removed from the connector plug with a long straight pin; inserted from the face side of the connector, the pin will depress the locking tab and allow the connector to slide out the back. This can help make the wiring connections easier/cleaner (and in particular, easier to insulate properly).
Hope that helps. _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 8794 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 10:44 pm Post subject: |
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PS - Ebay is a great source for all these parts, inexpensive and good stuff. The car we wired yesterday had all those and plenty more sourced from eBay, it all turned out to be quite good stuff!! _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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