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924 turbo(931) head on 924 n/a
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brit2514  



Joined: 21 Feb 2007
Posts: 18

PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i an adjustable cam sprocket on ebay.co.uk for vw golf 2.0l v8.

i just want to confirm this will fit as it is the last piece of the puzzle before i start to work on it next weekend. will update with pics as soon as i start.

thanks for all your help
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flosho wrote:
Paul wrote:
Same as a VW 8 valve 4 banger.

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Engine-Parts/Performance/performance-parts_c-5_pl-82.htm

http://www.eurosportacc.com/camgears.htm



These work for both 931 and 924 right?


Yes, you need this one:

Neuspeed Adjustable Cam Gear

4Cyl 8V

Fits:
- 1974-1998 Volkswagen Golf (Base)

Part Number: 62.10.21

Here's a $70 one:

http://techtonicstuning.com/viewpart.asp?partnum=109.060B
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Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
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Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

paul: know of one that comes in silver or black? ....
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes in Silver, price is 90$ though
also in red anodised too...
Leadfoot
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

leadfoot wrote:
Yes in Silver, price is 90$ though
also in red anodised too...
Leadfoot


I'd buy the neuspeed one if I wanted a red http://techtonicstuning.com/viewpart.asp?partnum=109.060
that one will match our engine colors nicely.

Min
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1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting.
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emoore924  



Joined: 13 Apr 2004
Posts: 2822

PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a word of caution when "skimming" the head. There is a minimum thickness specification that you might run afoul of if you take too much off. I don't recall the measure exactly, but I believe it is mentioned in the Haynes Manual. Also, I have no idea what happens if you exceed this minimum thickness -- is the head just more prone to warping or does it cause something more serious like blow out a coolant or oil passage?? I have no idea.

Note: This same manual that recommends "straightening" rather than milling to remove any bow in the head so I'm not quite sure how seriously to take this advice.
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John Brown  



Joined: 07 Nov 2002
Posts: 903
Location: Leesburg VA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

emoore924 wrote:
Just a word of caution when "skimming" the head. There is a minimum thickness specification that you might run afoul of if you take too much off. I don't recall the measure exactly, but I believe it is mentioned in the Haynes Manual. Also, I have no idea what happens if you exceed this minimum thickness -- is the head just more prone to warping or does it cause something more serious like blow out a coolant or oil passage?? I have no idea.

Note: This same manual that recommends "straightening" rather than milling to remove any bow in the head so I'm not quite sure how seriously to take this advice.


You RAPIDLY destroy the head by cutting into the spark plug threads. Porsche didn't leave much to work with. At least 2 supposedly usable heads I have bought have turned out to be trash either because someone milled it or someone gouged the surface and it needed to be milled too much.
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80 931 - #931 44Cup
99 Escalade - tows track cars
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endwrench  



Joined: 07 Dec 2002
Posts: 1631
Location: Victor, Montana

PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Brown wrote:
emoore924 wrote:
Just a word of caution when "skimming" the head. There is a minimum thickness specification that you might run afoul of if you take too much off. I don't recall the measure exactly, but I believe it is mentioned in the Haynes Manual. Also, I have no idea what happens if you exceed this minimum thickness -- is the head just more prone to warping or does it cause something more serious like blow out a coolant or oil passage?? I have no idea.

Note: This same manual that recommends "straightening" rather than milling to remove any bow in the head so I'm not quite sure how seriously to take this advice.


You RAPIDLY destroy the head by cutting into the spark plug threads. Porsche didn't leave much to work with. At least 2 supposedly usable heads I have bought have turned out to be trash either because someone milled it or someone gouged the surface and it needed to be milled too much.


Also keep on mind most of this discussion involves decking the block, not the head.

Todd
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'79 924NA. Rebuilt 9.5:1, MSDS header, Mega Squirt Injection, MJLJ-EDIS Ignition, 1.6L Whipple Charger and Intercooler, 10lbs Boost, 944 Trans, Custom HD Clutch.
"simsport" said....superchargers are better than turbos its official!....
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Glen931  



Joined: 11 Mar 2005
Posts: 52
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it really worth all this work to put a better flowing 931 head on rather than working on better flow on the 924 head. can you get the same or better flow out of porting and aftermarket valves are is the port geometry, valve angles, and water/oil passages different as to now allow making a 924 head flow as well or better than a stock 931 head?

Id just put the turbo on while your at it and save yourself the hastle of trying to make power on an NA... Waiting to get flammed by the NA crowd
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1980 porsche 931 beige
1987 Porsche 951 red, 51kmiles.. prefect cond.
1978 ford fairmont wagon 2.3 turbo engine
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On behalf of Min, let me just say, "How dare you!"


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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
On behalf of Min, let me just say, "How dare you!"



huh? ... not sure what thats about.

Min
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1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just teasin you man. . .you seem to get a little bent when people suggest that hot-rodding the NA is. . .um. . .a challenge!
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Just teasin you man. . .you seem to get a little bent when people suggest that hot-rodding the NA is. . .um. . .a challenge!


Ah ok. I just get bent when people say things are so hard and so costly, when really they arn't. Or they've never done it so arn't actually aware of the true costs.

Min
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1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting.
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endwrench  



Joined: 07 Dec 2002
Posts: 1631
Location: Victor, Montana

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glen931 wrote:
Is it really worth all this work to put a better flowing 931 head on rather than working on better flow on the 924 head. can you get the same or better flow out of porting and aftermarket valves are is the port geometry, valve angles, and water/oil passages different as to now allow making a 924 head flow as well or better than a stock 931 head?

Id just put the turbo on while your at it and save yourself the hastle of trying to make power on an NA... Waiting to get flammed by the NA crowd


I think this is a legitimate question. I think it depends on a number of things.

First, it would be nice if we at least had some flow numbers to compare in stock form. I'm actually working on this by building a flow bench (no, really, I am). I just can't seem to finish it

Second it would be nice to see one actually converted with some sort of performance figures. Dyno would be nice but at this point I would settle for G-tech HP and 0-60mph figures.

Third, if your doing this work yourself it is more plausible to bolt things on rather than re-engineer the NA cyl. head. Some of just like to do things our self rather than depend on (pay for!) an outside source. It would definitely be easier to bolt on another free flowing modified NA head but the cheapest I've seen is $1000+. If you count up all the costs of putting on a 931 head it can easily surpass this. I believe it can be done for less than half that too but it will take some scrounging. These discussions seem to rehash the same old things but sometimes another kernel of new information will surface. Until someone actually does this, this is all just academic.

Todd
_________________
'79 924NA. Rebuilt 9.5:1, MSDS header, Mega Squirt Injection, MJLJ-EDIS Ignition, 1.6L Whipple Charger and Intercooler, 10lbs Boost, 944 Trans, Custom HD Clutch.
"simsport" said....superchargers are better than turbos its official!....
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Glen931  



Joined: 11 Mar 2005
Posts: 52
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have the time and skill to port it yourself, a valve job and valves are pretty cheap.

And I wasn't saying not to do this, just wondering which approach would give you the most bang for your buck. Also I know that you can make power NA but its just so much easier to make power with a turbo engine.
_________________
"Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD, you know you want to hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences"

1980 porsche 931 beige
1987 Porsche 951 red, 51kmiles.. prefect cond.
1978 ford fairmont wagon 2.3 turbo engine
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