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SandmanUtah Guest
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Posted: Fri May 24, 2002 2:11 am Post subject: |
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ok, so it looks like I'll be keeping my little beast, so first up is to rebuild the turbo and put the engine back in. Now I read in the FAQ that installing the intercooler requires removal of your pop up lights. Anyone else had any alternative mountings that don't require losing lights or replacing the hood? To refresh, this is an early 80, which I'm supposing makes it a series one, although the plate numbers don't match the ones in the FAQ, but rather show the turbo as a 5326 970 7007. Now this has been replaced by the dealer twice in the past, so maybe that's why. So let's see, for more power, we go to a spring and boost controller, intercooler and what, maybe an external oil delay pump to keep this thing juiced? I do NOT want to be yanking this thing again in 3000 miles. Belts and hoses will be done while I've got it out. Anything else? Thanks for the input guys.
Sean Sullivan
(yeah, that's irish, let's not start that up again!) |
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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Fri May 24, 2002 2:52 am Post subject: |
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Yup. John Heaney made a top mounted intercooler. I'm experimenting with mounting that intercooler on my car presently. A few ticks to work out, probably primarily due to me, but some because it's an older model and his original design got modified somewhat. You always have to play with these things to get them right. I'll let you know how it goes. Scoop too. |
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Pat Guest
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Posted: Fri May 24, 2002 10:06 am Post subject: |
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There was an intercooler on e-bay not to long ago that mounted the intercooler behind the passenger side light (right from drivers seat), it required moving the oil cooler forward but didn't require removing the pop up lights. I think the seller said it was made by William Balberro Racing (Not sure if I spelled it right). |
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Peter_in_AU
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 2743 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2002 12:09 am Post subject: |
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you've got lots of options depending on how much work you want to do.
Get on your back under the nose and have a look at the space you have available in front of the radiator. There are a lot of intercoolers that will fit in there - measure up and head for the junk yard. A good choice is the 'cooler from the series V or IV mazda rx7 (they stole the 924 body shape so stealing their intercooler is poetic) Volvo do some nice small deep ones. With a few bits of cardboard and some tape you'll be able to work out what size works. Might be an idea to also think about a more efficient radiator as you'll be reducing the air-flow.
If you ditch the aircon radiator you could get a really monster 'cooler in there.
If money is no object there are heaps of places that will assemble a custom 'cooler for you.
You have to figure that any intercooler is better than none so rather than stuff up the looks of the car find something that fits |
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Michael Kouridakis Guest
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2002 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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It seems to me that placement of the IC is easier to arrange than the plumbing. I bought a 911 IC at Hershey a few years ago and have finally begun to work out how to get it in the car. I've started by removing the AC compressor (NO FREON left in the system), the air filter housing and the alternator. I'm relocating the radiator supply tank. The alternator will be relocated lower down out of the way of the IC and the AC radiator will be removed. The 3.3 911 IC just fits.
The challenge is how to plumb the thing. I may have to remove the headlight hardware on the right to get the tubing around the fuel distributor and down to the turbo. I'll have to have the inlet/outlet ports on the IC moved to make this work.
Any thoughts? |
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SandmanUtah Guest
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Posted: Sun May 26, 2002 12:30 am Post subject: |
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thanks for the input guys, but let me ask you this. Let's say, for arguments sake, that I want to keep all the little luxuries, like say the AC here in the desert..lol...it sounds like finding a hole or two and looking for areas to snake the plumbing then looking for any style intercooler that will fit seems the right plan. But here's the Q, without becoming just a flat out, ill tempered race car, what mods are producing the best yields for not only increasing the horsepower, but keeping it all running cool? Wayyyyy back, I lost a water pump between here and las vegas and ended up warping a head. This time through, I want the power, but I want to stay as cool as possible when it goes into the 100's around here, but still keep the AC cranked in my little solar oven. What do you think? |
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Lizard Guest
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Posted: Sun May 26, 2002 1:56 am Post subject: |
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get a small IC and mount it right beside the throttle body and put a hood scoop to direct air too it, use the carrera gt scoop, works and looks great |
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dwak Guest
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Posted: Sun May 26, 2002 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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Sandman, in your neck of the woods, I'd blacken my windows, put five airscoops on, and hang those canvas drip bags over the front intakes. Or drive a Caddie.
dwak |
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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Mon May 27, 2002 11:10 pm Post subject: |
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Have a look at the Carrera GT. That's what the top mounted scoop looks like ... no holes in the chassis...if that matters to you at sale time... |
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SandmanUtah Guest
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Posted: Thu May 30, 2002 1:08 am Post subject: |
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ok, so I saw John's slick little IC set up. But what about that hood scoop? Is it a cut out and fiberglass kind of thing? Or is there a totally new hood involved with that? If John would like to answer, I'd also like to ask about the flair fenders he put on. Are those fiberglass as well and if so, where did you get them/ would you recommend them as a good quality/fitting 'glass manufacturer? Thanks |
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SandmanUtah Guest
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Posted: Thu May 30, 2002 1:11 am Post subject: |
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Oh, and DWAK, got it, but driving that as far as feeling connected to the road, you might as well be sleeping in the back seat! |
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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Thu May 30, 2002 2:45 am Post subject: |
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You asked:
Is it a cut out and fiberglass kind of thing?
Answer: Yes. It comes sanded and ready to paint.
Or is there a totally new hood involved with that?
Answer: Nope. But it does look better on a 924 NA hood than a 931 hood with the NACA duct. Oh well.
Question you should have asked: Does it work?
Answer: Yes. Cools down the intake charge.
Question you should have asked: Bang for the buck?
Probably get + 20 HP or more depending on where you place your boost. Cost per horsepower is likely in the range of $50 per 1 horsepower. That's not to shabby, and that is with a MILD installation (i.e., not too much boost...9 PSI).
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John H Guest
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Posted: Thu May 30, 2002 11:40 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
On 2002-05-30 01:08, SandmanUtah wrote:
ok, so I saw John's slick little IC set up. But what about that hood scoop? Is it a cut out and fiberglass kind of thing? Or is there a totally new hood involved with that? If John would like to answer, I'd also like to ask about the flair fenders he put on. Are those fiberglass as well and if so, where did you get them/ would you recommend them as a good quality/fitting 'glass manufacturer? Thanks
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The hood scoop is a fibreglass copy of a real GT scoop. It just bolts onto the hood after you've cut hole for it. I still run a 931 hood as my clutch master cylinder is directly above the exhaust and the NACA duct directs cold ai onto it. Note I have the steering wheel on the Right side of the car.
The flares I have a fibreglass copie sagain off a real GT. I got them in New Zealand (where I live) many years ago. As for ones from US - probably any reputable firm GT- racing, AIR etc should be able to do them. Whoever you get them off you should still allow for some mucking around to get them to look nice. |
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SandmanUtah Guest
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Posted: Fri May 31, 2002 12:30 am Post subject: |
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ok, good. Thanks Rick & John. Rick, as far as the hp gains go at 9lbs boost, is that with the standard compression in the U.S. series one, or to the ROW specs/series II? Heat and all being what it is. I agree with you John about fiberglass needing "massaging" some just needs more than others..lol...actually, I wanted to go back to the boost comment and the comments elsewhere along here with some of the adjustable boosts/spring changes that have jumped some of these cars over 15psi boost. Anyone doing this that has very bad things happen to their car?? All I've seen are those who said they've run tens of thousands of miles with no problems...anyone bending rods, blowing a hole in their block, warping heads. catching their car on fire kind of thing?!! Thanks guys.
Sean |
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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Fri May 31, 2002 1:51 am Post subject: |
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My car is kind of a special case. I ordered 8.5:1 compression pistons, new. Got 8:1 compression Euro pistons. Oh well. Bored out 0.020 over. Lightened the rods, balanced the engine rods, crank...all that crap. The car is rated for 7.5:1 compression pistons. Has the larger turbo, and is now intercooled, lightened flywheel, honed intake, no cat, better coil, stock EMS (presently, looking into SDS). So it's not a normal animal.
Yeah, well, blowing up your car, that I can speak about. I had the boost up to 18 PSI at one point with no intercooler, just used water injection and it worked quite nicely. No ping. No knock. However, it's not reccommended, largely because of superstition and lack of understanding, and a small audience who'll listen to you. But the draggers do it and it works. Also the USAF used it and it worked there too.
I blew the engine with 15 PSI and NO water injection. It wasn't even ON. And I wasn't hammering it too badly. I would not run that car above stock again without TOLULENE or an intercooler or a good water injection system. Personal opinion only. Some guys run them with no cooling, but I think they're courting disaster. Again, my opinion only. Do what thou wilst.
I'd use TOLULENE and put a few gallons of that in your tank. Try a manual boost controller and experiment and see how it feels with just 9 or 10 PSI at first. That's how it'll feel with an intercooler and the same boost.
Someone jump in and correct me if I'm off base here.
[ This Message was edited by: Rick MacLaren on 2002-05-31 01:59 ] |
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