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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2002 12:59 am Post subject: |
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Ok, I know I should know how to do this, but I don't. How do I bleed the clutch on the 931? I have an '80 model. |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 8815 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2002 2:26 am Post subject: |
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Just like the brakes; just make sure you have the tail end as high as possible in the air, to get the best flow of air out of the slave.
_________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2002 2:43 am Post subject: |
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Clutch goes nearly to the floor.
So I get the rear end high, open the brake reservoir, and pump the clutch? That's it? Any adjustments to be made? Sorry but I've just never done this and bleeding the brakes was a bxxch.
[ This Message was edited by: Rick MacLaren on 2002-04-23 02:57 ] |
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Smoothie Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2002 4:00 am Post subject: |
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I wish it were that easy!
Leave the cover on the reservoir. Unless you have some kind of one man brake bleeder, you'll need two people, one to pump and hold the clutch, the other to loosen and tighten the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder down at the bell housing. You'll need a small wrench for that - I don't remember exactly, but it's something like 6, 7 or 8mm.
With the bleeder screw tightened, pump and hold the clutch down, then open the screw to let air out, close the screw, pump and hold the clutch again, loosen, tighten, etc. Repeat until all air is out |
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larso Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2002 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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Hi,
I just finished doing one last week. There is an easy one-man way to bleed the clutch.
(Remove starter motor to make life easy)
Just:
1.Pour the fluid into the reservoir, as much as you can fit in there. Now open the bleeder.
2.Pull the clutch inspection cap off.
3. Press the clutch wear indicator with your thumb (round, black, the thing you see when you look in the inspection hole). Keep pressing it until fluid starts coming out the bleeder and you feel more pressure on your thumb.
4. Make sure the bleeder is open quite a bit, if it is open just a little you will not get the job done.
5. Put hose on bleeder, put hose into bottle with brake fluid in it, dip the hose in so that it will not suck in air when the clutch pedal comes back up.
6. Press the clutch down once
7. Fill fluid up in reservoir to max
8. repeat step 6 then 7 roughly 4 times, making sure you keep filling up the reservoir.
9. done
Surprisingly enough the OEM F-A-G slave cyl is available from the Canadian Pep Boys (PartSource) for CDN$80.
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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2002 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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Lars do you have that part number? |
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larso Guest
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Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2002 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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I can get the part number of the cyl that I took off if you like.. i don't know if partsource goes by part numbers or if they have their own thingy.
Are you going to replace the cylinder?
I found that it took 4 litres of brake fluid to flush all the old bad stuff out, not too fun when you are in the middle of moving and the car is parked on a street at the time in the snow
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Rick MacLaren Guest
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Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2002 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Lars. I think what I'm gonna do is just get the part and do it. Everyone says DIY so I'm gonna do it myself. |
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larso Guest
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2002 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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As long as you go easy on the fluid line, and flush the fluid out, everything should go easy. If it's real tight put some WD-40 on it, it's very thin and easy to round. If it's real tight a flare end wrench works better with more grip so you don't round it. |
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